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The official CELINE thread

Jabbathecunt

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Tokyo is irrelevant.

The 4 that matter for the people up top are NY, London, Paris, Milan. I can tell you right now that there is major concern.
There is major concern for the global economy collectively. The Italian economy was utterly devastated. During fashion week Celine in Paris had queues down the sidewalk, nobody was even inside Hermès. I don't feel that its grave but yes I see a restructuring of all luxury goods companies coming up.
 

Trixz

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I believe Hermès has actually sustained and gone above their year end target for sales but perhaps I heard incorrectly on the radio.

I’ll echo what others have said about the lack of pictures for real life narratives to see how I might see myself in Celine’s items. One way that I like seeing this is from ssense and mr porter because they measure every single garment they carry and it makes life a lot easier seeing clothing with other items from the same season.

Also, from what I saw this spring cropped flares have not been hot in my general area. As for straight leg crops, those have been everywhere both men and women in my area.

More personally, I’ve been reluctant to order from Celine based on my first order. The denim was sized weird, the style was weird and the denim felt nothing special. Granted it was from the first release but it’s tainted my trust ever since. Add to that about the reports on here about the shotty quality with the boots makes one second guess. For someone like me who has followed Hedi for a long while, I’m still willing to try certain pieces here and there but it’s really easy to pick out certain items from SLP that I know will fit and have seen how I can style it. Plus I’m just not into the flared pants movement. (I personally think the person behind SLP mens, that Hedi hired, has fits that are amazing starting in 2018 albeit a bit spotty on the type of styles). For others who are just trying the Celine brand or style, that don’t have that “relationship” to Hedi, it’s easy to move on. The latest dancing kid is the first show that has excited me because it feels alive. Granted the first few shows were great to set the tone and recognize its roots at Celine it still just didn’t make me excited.

Recently, there was a post on the Instagram account diet Prada of various brands which included Celine. In the comments it looked as if a majority of the Celine comments were positive with a few missing the previous creative director, which oddly enough, Hedi seems to be more aligned to the origins of Celine than phobe.

 

Jabbathecunt

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I believe Hermès has actually sustained and gone above their year end target for sales but perhaps I heard incorrectly on the radio.

I’ll echo what others have said about the lack of pictures for real life narratives to see how I might see myself in Celine’s items. One way that I like seeing this is from ssense and mr porter because they measure every single garment they carry and it makes life a lot easier seeing clothing with other items from the same season.

Also, from what I saw this spring cropped flares have not been hot in my general area. As for straight leg crops, those have been everywhere both men and women in my area.

More personally, I’ve been reluctant to order from Celine based on my first order. The denim was sized weird, the style was weird and the denim felt nothing special. Granted it was from the first release but it’s tainted my trust ever since. Add to that about the reports on here about the shotty quality with the boots makes one second guess. For someone like me who has followed Hedi for a long while, I’m still willing to try certain pieces here and there but it’s really easy to pick out certain items from SLP that I know will fit and have seen how I can style it. Plus I’m just not into the flared pants movement. (I personally think the person behind SLP mens, that Hedi hired, has fits that are amazing starting in 2018 albeit a bit spotty on the type of styles). For others who are just trying the Celine brand or style, that don’t have that “relationship” to Hedi, it’s easy to move on. The latest dancing kid is the first show that has excited me because it feels alive. Granted the first few shows were great to set the tone and recognize its roots at Celine it still just didn’t make me excited.

Recently, there was a post on the Instagram account diet Prada of various brands which included Celine. In the comments it looked as if a majority of the Celine comments were positive with a few missing the previous creative director, which oddly enough, Hedi seems to be more aligned to the origins of Celine than phobe.

Hermès is down by 42% but heritage bags have surprisingly become widely available now so they are rebounding, they have not gone above. Yes it is unfortunate that there were quality issues with the first edition of the Jacno boots and certain other items, there is a reluctancy, but the Japanese denim has always been good quality. You can have it tailored to whatever you want, gratuit. Promising signs are that they have corrected the problem but alas we are in the midst of a economic downturn. The current pieces that I have received are much more lux and superlative in quality, truth be told I order only what I like from a collection and wear it until its done, nothing lasts forever.

The Dior scream show was a disaster!!! I do not listen to anything @dietPrada says, its highly manipulative. Dont be a sheep... I don't give af how many followers they have. Life is not about followers, its about leaders.
 
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Trixz

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True that about being a leader. I brought up the diet prada post more as a reference for perception purposes on a greater scale then we have here by reading through the comments and ignoring the content shown, although perhaps not the best reference because it was presented through a certain lens. Ignoring the author of the post it was interesting for me to hear the impressions people had of celine.
 

Jabbathecunt

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True that about being a leader. I brought up the diet prada post more as a reference for perception purposes on a greater scale then we have here by reading through the comments and ignoring the content shown, although perhaps not the best reference because it was presented through a certain lens. Ignoring the author of the post it was interesting for me to hear the impressions people had of celine.
Decide for yourself. Hedi has taken me to special places in my life, the David furnish strawberry Dom Perignon champagne party in Las Vegas, I am impartial to his ultimate vision. And I am sure very few of others have felt the same. Do not tell me that I am too skinny and then complain. There is something prolific about Hedi, something that I cannot explain, but something that I will hold in my heart forever. If you have never taken a ride in the classic Rolls Royce on Doheny, do you even exist?
 
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thorns

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Add to that about the reports on here about the shotty quality with the boots makes one second guess.
My first impression with leather was what I gleamed from reading on the classic menswear forums on this website. Traditional English shoe maker brands became my barometer for determining good quality vs bad quality. I feel like Hedi follows the French aesthetic of leather footwear which emphasizes pliability over structural rigidity. I used to be someone who abhors any creasing and deem creasing as universally ugly...like sneaker heads with their Jordans. It was Kieran's posts that talked about how ss13's Reina Lux leather is reminiscent to Hedi's Dior Homme French calf shoes that made me pause and reflect on Hedi's choice of leather. Nowdays, I'm personally a big fan of rolls over fine creases, and fine creases over sharp deep creases. I think clothes/fashion is wearable art...keeping your shoes pristine makes one lose out on some of the experience and seeing overly new looking footwear in very casual outfits betrays any idea of effortlessness.

Generally, Hedi uses 3 types of leathers for footwear (ignoring suede since they don't really show creasing): regular grained box calf leather (shiny leather), leather with a corrected grain (lizard embossed) and coated leather (polished leather and patent leather) and they all show creasing with variations due to the material. Apparently, the embossed leathers hide wear and tear easier. I don't own any grained leather products, besides a new wallet, so I can't say much from personal experience. The coated leathers are a bit more unpredictable in my eyes and often are a victim of sharp deep creasing, but sometimes I see beautiful rolls as well. However, I am still a fan of them because of their shiny look, good for rain, and maintenance-free. The polished leather (also called other names like polished binder or bookbinder) is relatively low maintenance since the surface is like a nail with nail polish, so polishing will really do nothing. The cons is that scuffs won't be as easily blended as regular grained leather, since the scuffing is on the surface coating rather than on leather. But, I can see how some light scuffing and creasing can tone down how dressy coated leather can look in more casual outfits. My ultimate favourite still has to be regular box calf, the majority of my collection is box calf, and they can give some of the best types of creasing in my eyes which are rolls.

I'll show some examples of creasing that I have come to like and other creasing patterns that I'm not as big of a fan of:

1. Rolls (love)
1603259580409.png

(ss13 calf with rolls)

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(box calf from fw13 with rolls)

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(box calf with rolls ss14)


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(embossed leather with rolls)

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(polished leather showing rolls in ss13)

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(patent leather fw16 showing rolls)

2. Soft fine creases (like)
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(soft fine creases in ss13 calf leather)

1603259470880.png

(soft fine creases in fw13 box calf leather)

1603258520081.png

(polished leather showing fine creases in ss13)

3. Sharp deep creases (hate)
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(box calf leather showing hard sharp creases post-2013)

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1603258064821.png

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(Polished leather showing deep sharp creases post-2013)

As illustrated by my examples, you can't often with 100% certainty know how your shoes will end up creasing. At Saint Laurent you could see variations within the same season. Some would crease like rolls, some would have fine soft creases. I do think 2013 had consistently "higher quality" leather and none of them showed signs of sharp hard creases. At the end of the day, leather is supposed to be worn and supposed to crease. Creasing doesn't directly imply quality (or lack thereof), and my preferences is just more of a visual preference. One thing that would trigger me is asymmetry in creasing. In all the pictures above, the creasing for both shoes look similar. However, leather is a natural product and it would be insane to expect natural products to always be consistent. Combined with the fact that often shoe makers use different cuts of leather for each shoe, you may end up with a pair of shoes with 2 distinct creasing patterns on each shoe. This is what happened to instagram user Dasbootblog.
1603260870815.png

Both exhibits fine soft creasing which looks good in my eyes, I like it. The only issue is the asymmetry. The one of the left exhibits slightly sharper lines then the one on the right. As someone who appreciates shoes as art as well, I empathize with him. He made a fuss and was able to pressure Celine to replace his pair. When buying new shoes, you're always rolling the dice with the crease pattern. I'm almost certain that with more wear the right pair will start having more pronounced creasing that would better match the left pair, but that's not always a 100% sure thing. When you use 2 different pieces of leather to make 1 pair of shoe, you always run the risk of the creases not matching.

However with everything said, keeping your shoes pristine inevitably makes your look tacky. Someone who is truly effortlessly cool has more things to worry about then a little creasing. They're truly experiencing their items and living their life with them like how they were intended to be used. Regarding the quality of Celine footwear, a few examples I've seen online of worn pairs looks similar to the 2013 era of fine soft creases. if it makes you feel any better, Hedi wears them himself too. Sometimes I believe that if it is good enough for Hedi, it is good enough for me. He has such picky discerning taste and wears it, so I shouldn't be complaining. I love how Hedi keeps his soles raw, no rubber.
1603261342308.png
 
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Malour

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On a different note: does anyone know when "Monaco" will be shown? Celine teased it a few weeks ago and I am guessing it is the women's SS21 show. Really looking forward to it if guessing right.
 

youwhat

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Agreed GG. That was one look that really stood out to me as well as those striped sweaters with the black buttons. I have the white version, but the black (as always) is cooler. ;)

Is that leather above, this? To Kieran's point earlier, it could certainly be photographed better, or at least, make the arms slightly less billowy.

View attachment 1481131

no, its this one (but in black). angelina jolie was wearing it on the other page too (last pic).

1603265231994.png
 

Randeep

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Sometimes I believe that if it is good enough for Hedi, it is good enough for me. He has such picky discerning taste and wears it, so I shouldn't be complaining. I love how Hedi keeps his soles raw, no rubber.
My mantra for the ages ! -- that last bit though... I mean -- I'd keep my soles raw too if I successfully sued Kering for £8m.
 

thorns

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Although I'm personally not into the Monochroms collection, I find it quite cute when girls wear it. It is feels fun, fresh, and playful. I feel like it appeals more to the majority of luxury consumers than the more dressed up bourgeois style pushed in previous seasons.


In case people were curious, this would be the male counterpart of the Celine girl into logomania:
1603277253518.png

1603277367545.png
 
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kieran84

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As someone who dresses in a really understated way, I'm surprised to say I actually really like it. It's not something I'd go for, although I could maybe see myself in say the grey back print hoody, black skinny jeans and triomphe sneakers for wearing around the house, running errands etc. Looks very comfortable.

I'm not sure what other people think but generally I don't think oversized styles work for men the way they do for women. There was someone here that posted themselves wearing the oversized denim jacket in opera wash that looked good though. I need to get around to trying that as well.
 

moesarhan

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Agreed GG. That was one look that really stood out to me as well as those striped sweaters with the black buttons. I have the white version, but the black (as always) is cooler. ;)

Is that leather above, this? To Kieran's point earlier, it could certainly be photographed better, or at least, make the arms slightly less billowy.

View attachment 1481131
thought the same but the zipper is black here and there's no shoulder patch or stitching, right?
 

thorns

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As someone who dresses in a really understated way, I'm surprised to say I actually really like it. It's not something I'd go for, although I could maybe see myself in say the grey back print hoody, black skinny jeans and triomphe sneakers for wearing around the house, running errands etc. Looks very comfortable.

I'm not sure what other people think but generally I don't think oversized styles work for men the way they do for women. There was someone here that posted themselves wearing the oversized denim jacket in opera wash that looked good though. I need to get around to trying that as well.
Yeah, the Monochroms collection did make me re-evaluate if I want to wear oversized hoodies and sweatpants in greyscale as home lounge wear. I'm not too keen to project a soft comfy vibe when outside....unless for some quick grocery store run etc.

The oversized comfy fit in bright colours gives a soft cute playful vibe. It is not difficult to imagine a girl wanting to project that image for themselves. For longterm Hedi fans, we've been attracted to a more to his competent edgy look, but I think society is moving more gender fluid and soft boys are more readily acceptable in today's society. People also just want to look more and more casual. I think this is a perfect fit for Celine since Hedi has been pushing androgyny at the brand harder than at Dior Homme or Saint Laurent.

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I can see how Hedi's Monochroms collection's being a more polished less grungy version of Noen's own brand. The ones buying Noen's brand is buying it because they like him and want to support him, so it is an entirely different market than those who buy Celine's Monochroms collection. I believe an individual could buy from both Noen and Celine, but the proportion of those customers will be miniscule. Fundamentally, Hedi is keeping to his same formula of borrowing from different subcultures and filtering it through his lens to make it look more polished and elegant enough for a luxury brand. There is no shame if a particular season/subculture doesn't resonate with you. Since Hedi has sampled from a wide range of styles, there would be something in Hedi's universe that will appeal to you. Hell, I'm still stuck loving Hedi's 2013 season/proportions as the style I want to project.
 
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kieran84

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I definitely think it has the potential to be a success. As well as working in Hedi's intended way, I think It can fit right in to a more let's say basic girl's wardrobe too, and we've seen with the success of things like the McQueen platform sneakers, or the Gucci sneakers and slides, how the average girl is prepared to spend money on luxury items these days more than ever before.

It's also a welcome change from L01s and Wyatt boots being all I ever see, not that there's anything wrong with those items both are great, they've just become so ubiquitous that this feels refreshing.
 

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