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The official CELINE thread

ViceofGucci

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seems like a mix of ss15 and fw16 which I like but I don't think this will sell like a fw13 collection
 

SirGrotius

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Good call. That reminded me to take a peak at the fw13 collection. What a strong show and so many hits from the duffle, the teddy, the leather biker, the jeans. Really standout stuff.
 

Adamdraps

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Good call. That reminded me to take a peak at the fw13 collection. What a strong show and so many hits from the duffle, the teddy, the leather biker, the jeans. Really standout stuff.
FW13 was really special. I look at it at least once a week. I wish I had the confidence I have now back when that collection came out. I remember seeing the pieces for sale thinking I could never pull this off then go buy a bunch of Balmain denim and T shirts. Fuck. I envy anyone who bought the whisker denim, Cowboy wyatts in ochre and nut at that time.
 

ViceofGucci

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that collection pretty much spawned numerous copy cat brands and made the best staples.
 

parnyc

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Let's face it, it isn't exciting necessarily but there are a lot of very wearable/sale-able pieces in the show. I did immediately become a bit bored, knowing it was another 70's collection, however, it seems he is trying to really instill certain codes of the house and drive it home ad nauseam. Rather than going in a different direction each season, trying to build upon each previous collection. Boring to see, perhaps, but in terms of trying to create a unified vision I understand it. Lots of great pieces I would gladly add to my wardrobe.

I don't see LVMH throwing the towel in on him so quickly. Even just thinking in terms of the investment made on redoing all of the stores and launching the fragrance line. If they were to replace him, who/what would you replace this aesthetic with? Nothing would be in sync. I think it would be more detrimental trying to create yet another vision for the house, especially when what's been built in the last couple of years is quite singular.

Saint Laurent wasn't an immediate success, it did take a moment, and I suppose (as its been stated already) the issue is attracting a customer who was neither familiar with Celine nor Hedi (speaking more so on the men's side of things here) into the shops to drop this kind of money.

Saying that it looks like clothes you can already buy at other brands, or repurposed vintage is a bit redundant. He didn't reinvent the wheel at Saint Laurent either, however, eventually, it sold.
 

piblondin

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If they were to replace him, who/what would you replace this aesthetic with?
Well, I still long for a Phoebe Philo aesthetic adapted for men. That's what I would want to see--basically, a continuation of her aesthetic with the addition of menswear.
 

parnyc

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Well, I still long for a Phoebe Philo aesthetic adapted for men. That's what I would want to see--basically, a continuation of her aesthetic with the addition of menswear.
You could perhaps say that Daniel Lee is doing that at Bottega. He came from working with Phoebe, so he understood that aesthetic well.

I suppose my point with that statement is that for a house without easily identifiable codes (there is an archive from the original Celine but those aren't pieces that are synonymous with the house like tweed suits at Chanel or YSL and his safari collection for example), just about anything introduced to the public would be a gamble. And given that so many other brands are already trying to fill the void of Phoebe, it wouldn't make much sense for Celine to do that; especially at this stage. If it did, they would've just did that once she left and followed the same method that Saint Laurent did with Vaccarello.
 

piblondin

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You could perhaps say that Daniel Lee is doing that at Bottega. He came from working with Phoebe, so he understood that aesthetic well.

I suppose my point with that statement is that for a house without easily identifiable codes (there is an archive from the original Celine but those aren't pieces that are synonymous with the house like tweed suits at Chanel or YSL and his safari collection for example), just about anything introduced to the public would be a gamble. And given that so many other brands are already trying to fill the void of Phoebe, it wouldn't make much sense for Celine to do that; especially at this stage. If it did, they would've just did that once she left and followed the same method that Saint Laurent did with Vaccarello.
I guess I don't particularly feel like the other labels come close to Philo, whether the Row or Loewe or whatever. But maybe I'm not looking hard enough!

Anyhow, I did like this Céline show, although I didn't see in it much that I personally want and I liked the women's more than the men's But I'm boring and find it hard to top the SLP "permanent collection" that Hedi established there. I do think he's starting to establish some codes at Céline and agree with you that it seems like it may be effective after a couple more seasons, if he's able to stick around long enough.
 

hediboy

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I do actually like the show, although it is quite reminiscent to Palladium. Flared jeans or trousers are big sell in this season, so more to come makes sense, love to get more. Tux are great, somehow I admire women side as well!
Overall more grow up and ball-like fashion could be tough to get more sell...
 

jeune

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Let's face it, it isn't exciting necessarily but there are a lot of very wearable/sale-able pieces in the show. I did immediately become a bit bored, knowing it was another 70's collection, however, it seems he is trying to really instill certain codes of the house and drive it home ad nauseam. Rather than going in a different direction each season, trying to build upon each previous collection. Boring to see, perhaps, but in terms of trying to create a unified vision I understand it. Lots of great pieces I would gladly add to my wardrobe.

I don't see LVMH throwing the towel in on him so quickly. Even just thinking in terms of the investment made on redoing all of the stores and launching the fragrance line. If they were to replace him, who/what would you replace this aesthetic with? Nothing would be in sync. I think it would be more detrimental trying to create yet another vision for the house, especially when what's been built in the last couple of years is quite singular.

Saint Laurent wasn't an immediate success, it did take a moment, and I suppose (as its been stated already) the issue is attracting a customer who was neither familiar with Celine nor Hedi (speaking more so on the men's side of things here) into the shops to drop this kind of money.

Saying that it looks like clothes you can already buy at other brands, or repurposed vintage is a bit redundant. He didn't reinvent the wheel at Saint Laurent either, however, eventually, it sold.
Yes yes yes, this is exactly why I love Hedi Slimane's work throughout the different houses. Despite the fact that each house has a different history (which Hedi majored in apparently, Art History) he manages to take the DNA and bits and pieces of each house and incorporate in his overall "code". He's always talking about "codifying" things instead of interpreting.

And the SL statement is true, it did take awhile to get sales to where they were. And like the poster above and many others, a lot of people "regretted" not buying FW13 when it was just released after looking back. I'd like to think Celine will turn out the same way as well despite the fact that FW20 is an upgraded FW16 + SS15.

I love FW20, the entire encapsulating scene Hedi created last night. A lot of luxurious fabrics in tailored/purposefully billowly silhouettes, and high-heels for everyone. Personally not a fan of 85mm boots myself, but I suspect there will be 40/60mm variations too. Velour/Velvet pants were insane, but it goes into the territory of "where will I wear this?"

I'm most curious about the collection name "A ma Mère" which is "To my mother". Maybe an homage to the clothes Hedi's mom used to wear? Feels like a sentimental statement.
 

Bill H

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FW13 was really special. I look at it at least once a week. I wish I had the confidence I have now back when that collection came out. I remember seeing the pieces for sale thinking I could never pull this off then go buy a bunch of Balmain denim and T shirts. Fuck. I envy anyone who bought the whisker denim, Cowboy wyatts in ochre and nut at that time.
Bro its not too late... I am like 100 years old and I wear fw13 all the time. Whiskers will be great in 50 years.
 

nekromantik

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FW13 was really special. I look at it at least once a week. I wish I had the confidence I have now back when that collection came out. I remember seeing the pieces for sale thinking I could never pull this off then go buy a bunch of Balmain denim and T shirts. Fuck. I envy anyone who bought the whisker denim, Cowboy wyatts in ochre and nut at that time.
Same here.
I wish I had the money at that time to buy those items.
Some of the FW13 collection have become grail pieces and no one wants to sell and if they do its almost always above retail of what they sold for.
 

Adamdraps

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Bro its not too late... I am like 100 years old and I wear fw13 all the time. Whiskers will be great in 50 years.
I know, I been collecting a few pieces for the past 8 months. Back in November I got my ultimate grails, the cowboy wyatts in ochre. Just need to find the whisker denim.

Same here.
I wish I had the money at that time to buy those items.
Some of the FW13 collection have become grail pieces and no one wants to sell and if they do its almost always above retail of what they sold for.
The resale prices for the some of the jeans is silly. I mean, yeah I get it they are rare but let's be real here, the items are almost 10 years old and are worn pretty heavily. There's no reason to list them at $1300 for a pair of used ripped up jeans.
 

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