The Official Cars Discount / Thrift & DIY Questions and Bragging Thread.

Discussion in 'Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto' started by Thrift Vader, Sep 25, 2015.

  1. Sleeves345

    Sleeves345 Senior member

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    If you go the DIY route, try to get the rust out of those chips before you start painting. That'll help the rust converter do a better job before you paint. Rust is porous and even rust converter might not get it all if you don't grind the bulk of it away. I'd use either a dremel with a small wire wheel or a bit of sandpaper wrapped over the end of a chopstick to do some very precise grinding.

    I've not tried this, so maybe someone with more experience can weigh in, but would it be a good idea to build up a thicker layer of touch-up paint in the chips, then wet-sand back to flush and buff smooth? Seems like a little elbow grease could save you from a larger spray job.
     


  2. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    Thanks, guys. Definitely going to try spot fixes first and see how that turns out. I fully intend on keeping this car 'til the wheels fall off, so I'm not super concerned about preserving resale value or anything. The hail dimples and scuffed bumpers have already killed that. .

    Do I need to use primer after getting rid of the rust, before the touch-up paint?
     


  3. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    As @Sleeves345 said, you should at least sand a little. i was afraid you would make the repair spot bigger. but he is right. if you don't have a Dremel tool. a drill with a pointed stone tip will do the job if you are careful. then dab on the rust converter. and just do the top color twice.

    it's not a "project car" , so this will keep it going for longer. rust free. (Hopefully).

    Or just hunt around for a replacement hood online, or at your local pick a parts. prolly under $50 for a used hood. and $30 for the DIY method.
     


  4. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    I don't know if this is the right place for this, but I'll post it here anyway.

    I am going to be selling my car soon and I know that there are some serious car guys here who may be interested or know someone who is.

    I have driven a 7 Series BMW (740iL) for last 8 or so years. My first was a 95 740iL and I drove it for a couple years and sold it and bought my 2000 BMW 740iL. Then, I purchased a 2001 BMW 740iL Sport. It was a dream car for me. 2001 was the last year for the E38 Chassis and I had always wanted a Sport model but didn't want the 740i (shorter wheelbase). So, when I found a 01 Sport, I was very excited. I love the car. It is gorgeous and I drive it or my other 7 series everyday and we take one of them on every trip we go on.

    But, I am litigating 4 different police shooting cases right now and they are BIG cases. I have been shelling out 1000's of dollars to expert witnesses. Because these cases take such a long time, they also delay the time that I get paid! Plus, I have currently have three vehicles plus my wife has one. The newest BMW makes the most sense to sell. My other 7 series has 235,000 miles and has a crack in the bumper and a door lock that needs repair. It would be very hard to sell.

    So, I will be selling my dream car. It is a Royal Rot (red) 2001 BMW 740iL with 123,000 miles. I purchased it from the second owner who bought it 7 years ago and only put about 35,000 miles on the car. During that time he had it serviced religiously and I have all the service records. I have also been sort of a fanatic about maintenance since I have had it and have those records as well.

    It is a gorgeous car and has all the features you would expect in a 7 series. Power everything, Sport Suspension, traction control, sunroof, Navigation, CD changer, etc.

    It also has the HIGHLY coveted M-Par wheels (which were original equipment on this car. It was a very expensive option and I even have the original window sticker!

    Here are a few pics of the car taken by the previous seller when I bought it. The car still looks the same. I just haven't had time to take it out and take pictures.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I paid $6500 for the car and I got a great deal. An 01 740iL Sport with 123,000 is very hard to find. Since I have had it, I replaced the front tires have 80-85% life left in them. These particular wheels and tires and "staggered". That means the tires in the front and rear are not the same size. The tires in the rear are taller and wider. They are 18 inch wheels.

    I also replaced the lower control arms. Based on the service records I have, that means nearly every part of the front suspension has been done as well as the rear. So, this car will not need additional suspension work for years 75-100,000 miles.

    If you know anything about the E38 BMW, then you know how exceptional they are. They were called the best driving cars in the world and I think they rival or exceed many new cars.

    I could talk for days about the merits of these cars and how great they are. But, I don't want to waste the time of those who aren't interested.

    If you are looking for a car like this or know someone else who is, feel free to contact me through PM. I will be selling it for $6500. I honestly believe it is worth closer to $8,000 and if I had the time to list it and sit on it, I would do that. But, because I need to act a little quicker, I am pricing it at $6500.
     


  5. Cj52racers

    Cj52racers Senior member

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    E38s are awesome. I'll let a couple buddies know. Someone should grab this up
     


  6. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    Thanks Dude.
     


  7. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    Selling good rides at great prices is totally approved. [​IMG]


    damned good deal!
     


  8. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    Anybody know anything about old trucks?

    I have a 1992 Ford F-150. The passenger power window motor works. You can hear it going up and down. But, the window isn't attached --evidently. The window will slide all the way in the door unless I have it wedged in place. I would guess the regulator has some sort of clip that holds the window, but I haven't gotten into it yet.

    Also, I have a mysterious power steering fluid leak. I can't find any particular place it is leaking. But, if I drive it a lot it will be empty after a while. If it sits for a long time (which it does most of the time), it won't leak as much. Are there any particular common spots these leak? I was thinking about starting with the easiest which is to replace the power steering cap first.
     


  9. Huntsman

    Huntsman Senior member

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    I am going to embark on a crazy DIY car project this winter -- the craziest I have ever attempted. I am going to paint my '86 Jaguar XJ-S. The car is otherwise in great shape, and though there are many things I want to do with it, the paint is bad enough to prevent me from driving it, limiting my motivation. And, I don't have $10k lying around to have it professionally painted.

    ~ H
     


  10. Cj52racers

    Cj52racers Senior member

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    With regards to power steering, the most common spots are the actual line (this is the better outcome, as line replacement is cheap) or on the steering rack end seals (this is not good. A lot of times it will require a new rack). You can check the end seals to see if they are bloated or have fluid on the outside. The fluid builds up in the seals until it is too full and the fluid will start to flow out. Hopefully it's just at the line itself.

    And Huntsman, I fucking love the XJS. That 5.3l has such a nice sound. I've never taken on a full painting, so I can't help you there, but best of luck! I'm sure @Thrift Vader will have some advice for you!
     


  11. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    I bet if you remove the handles,and the door trims. you will have easy access to the inner workings. i am unfamilliar with your particular truck. but i assume that once you get a good look at it. the answer will present itself. might be a few screws. and @Cj52racers is spot on. if you pressure clean all around the engine and steering rack. it will be easier to find. and while power steering pumps can give way, the hose fittings and steering rack (also my pick) are easy enough to swap. if not messy.

    so many questions, original color? rust repair? where are you going to paint it? and how comfortable are you with the task?
    if you could post some pics, and /or pm me? perhaps we can all help make this easier for you. it is not a hard task, but it is labor intensive. you can do it with some coaching. I am sure the rest of us would really like to follow your progress.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2015


  12. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    I'll try both of those ideas! Thank you to you both!

    Regarding the paint job, from what I understand, preparation is about 90% of what makes a good paint job. If the surface to be painted in ready and prepared your finish surface will be so much better.

    I'm also curious about where you are going to paint it. Do you have spray booth? Or access to it? Are you doing two stage? What kind of paint?

    I had a 2004 XJR. God that was an incredible car. It was sex and speed on wheels -- 20 inch special R Edition wheels to be specific. That car was so fast and an amazing driver. BUT, the suspension was really set up for speed and thrashing the car. And the seats were unbelievably supportive and grippy when you really wanted to test the car. But, all those cool R features made it so uncomfortable on a road trip. After 20-30 min my knees and legs would ache.

    Plus, it always felt like it was ready to pounce. It really did feel like it just wanted to run and race. That was always a Big temptation. I knew if I kept it for too long I would get 50 speeding tickets or wrap myself and the car around a tree.

    It sure was a blast the times I thrashed it around at 130 MPH.

    By the way @Huntsman it's not the 12 cylinder, is it?
     


  13. jcman311

    jcman311 Senior member

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    I rocked a 94 grand marquis for a while (hand me down) that the window regulators would go on every 12 months. The regulators were a really bad design with cables that would break, fray, etc. I got real good at replacing them. The window motor would work but you sort of had to manually raise and lower the window. I dont know if that is the same problem you are having. They are both Fords from around the same time...

    Regulator is fairly cheap. Worst part is if they havent been replaced before you need to drill out rivets that hold the window onto the regulator. Just replace rivets with bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
     


  14. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    Keeping the DIY moving along with, How to overhaul Brake Calipers and replace Your Brakes by yourself.
    I promised it, and here it is, today i completely rebuilt the rear brakes on My Subaru, and stopped to take pics to show you good folks.

    [​IMG]
    ^^ look at that rust, just look at it.....[​IMG] the calipers were actually rusted solid, from 3 brutal Japanese winters left outside to rot in the snow. it took a 3 pound hammer and some "persuasion" (re:cursing) to get it all off.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The drip tray is for brake fluid. simply 2 14mm bolts on the rear of the Caliper, a 14mm bolt on the brake line, and some hammering. for real. 2 tools to remove the brakes. looks pretty nasty at this point. so i busted out the drill, a wire brush head and a can of paint before using Brake Cleaner on the new discs before sticking them on.
    [​IMG]
    The Suspension components will be replaced, so a bit of overspray is no problem now. today is about the Brakes, and using the chance to paint the inner wheel wells. The Dixcel Brake discs are great value at $90 with 20% off. and no tools needed to put them on. they just slip on. now for the harder bit. -Rebuilding the Calipers.
    [​IMG]

    here is my buddy showing me how to use the air hose in the brake hose bolt hole to pop the Cylinder out. The original Calipers were toast, so we raided his parts bin for some Calipers from a Legacy GTB. (note: for this swap, we used the mount part of the Calipers from the Impreza, as the discs are smaller, the Cylinder part fits when you combine them, these will be a custom mix setup using Subaru parts)
    once the seal is broken, tear away the rubber and pull out the Cylinder, like this:
    [​IMG]

    remove it, clean thoroughly, with Brake cleaner, and air hose, or a clean cloth. i took this chance to clean up the parts as i went, and cleaned it twice.
    [​IMG]
    you can order a rebuild kit online, or from a local parts store.
    it contains all the rings, seals and rubber dust covers you will need. and is easily available on the internet, or from a local parts shop. the kit i am using is from Akebono, the actual manufacturer of these brakes. - $30
    [​IMG]
    there are only 3 of the larger rings, - a rubber seal, a dust cover ,and a metal circle clip, because one caliper had already been done.
    [​IMG]

    the rubber seal goes in first, then the dust cover, and the metal clip goes in last, the only tool i used for this is a small hook tool, but other things might work for popping the clip in.
    painted up the Legacy part in Silver, and the Impreza Part in Metallic Black. (bonus paint i got floating around)
    [​IMG]
    using hi temp Silicone Grease for Brakes, and Wedsport Revspec Brake pads that were on sale at you guessed it, 20%off. - $50.
    fitted the side pistons and dust covers using parts from the kit. and put in the pads, how you put the pads in is up to you. remember to use the brake grease between the pads and Caliper surfaces to stop squeaking. and you will have this.
    [​IMG]
    A rebuilt Caliper like new,with some decent pads in it. Time to put this badboy on:
    [​IMG]
    erm, i left the drip tray on the other side.......[​IMG] so using thread compound on the 14mm rear mounting bolts, and reconnecting the brake hose. this job is done for today.
    happy with the result, looks factory fresh. -Total cost? $170 (plus paint.and grease).
    Next up, Front replacement and bleeding brakes 101.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2015


  15. fox15

    fox15 Well-Known Member

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    What other legy GTB parts happen to be laying about??

    Good job using Akebono and Wedsport parts there (and at a sizeable discount to boot!)
     


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