The Official Cars Discount / Thrift & DIY Questions and Bragging Thread.

Discussion in 'Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto' started by Thrift Vader, Sep 25, 2015.

  1. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    You can go to Carmax and get an appraisal for what they would buy it for. Then you use that to figure out if its better to trade or sell yourself.

    The one piece of advice i have about trading in a car is actually very simple but it is very powerful. Do NOT go into the sale with a price you want for your car. You want to have a price in mind that represents the difference between the two.

    Here's what I mean, most people who are trading in their car are thinking, I have to have at least $10,000 for my car and then they think about negotiating on the price of the car they are purchasing. There is built in room in the asking price of a car whether it is new or used. And one of the games a dealer will do is show you a very high trade in value for your car, but they won't come down much on the asking price. If you go into it and negotiate a lower price on the car AND then tell them about your trade, you will get a low price for your trade in.

    Avoid all that and focus on how much you will have to pay for the difference between the two. For example, you are trading in a 5 year old car that you believe is worth $10,000 and the car you are trying to buy is priced at $23,000, then you want to focus on the difference. If you say, I'll give you $8,000 difference, then the dealer can adjust the numbers however he needs to. He might show less $ for your car, but he might lower the price of the new car. Or he'll show you high trade, but not lower the price. You don't really care how they do that. Only the difference really matters. Sometimes there is an incentive to the dealer to show a high value for your car. Or maybe the dealer got a screaming deal on the car you are buying and they have lots of room to negotiate. Or maybe they want to show a a high value on your car because they think they have a buyer on it and want to tell them, look how much we paid for this car.

    No car deal is separate and apart from the others. Lots of them are interrelated and effect the others. So, don't get caught up in that. Just focus on the amount you are willing to pay.

    OR do I what I do and pay cash for 10 year old cars, drive them for a while and sell them. No payments. That's my plan.
     


  2. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    This.
     


  3. fox15

    fox15 Well-Known Member

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    Haven't had a payment in ten years doing this^ exactly. Unfortunately now I'm looking at a job with a long freeway commute and just don't want to put the miles and strain on a 13 year old car
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015


  4. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    "Fixing small rust jobs before they get big".


    so the Genius, (erm....) who owned my car previously thought it would be a fantastic idea to screw metal plates to the side of the car [​IMG]. instead of simply spending $4 on getting some of the correct clips to hold the bumper on correctly. [​IMG]

    which gives me a great little job to do for you guys/and or girls.

    here is how the car looked a few days ago:
    [​IMG]
    Closer......
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I removed the rear bumper to reveal??
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    you get the idea, this needs to be dealt with ASAP. [​IMG] (Yes... the plastic clip is still in there..)

    So here it what you will need to tackle a similar job:
    1. A Grinder, with a paint removal disc. plus gloves and Goggles.
    2. Some "Rust Changer" which you can find in your local Auto parts store.
    3. Under Body/ Chassis paint. (it is chip resistant) And some spray Primer. - if needed.
    4. Old Towels, or Sports coats.
    5. A Helpful friend with a sense of humor.
    6. A Basic Tool kit with Sockets,Wrenches,Drivers,And Pliers.
    7. An Interior Clip removal tool (Awesome) that you can also find in your local auto parts store.

    Lets Get Started!!!!
    Put a towel or old Hickey Freeman/BB over the wheel to protect it. And get to work with the grinder. starting in the worst areas, then tidying up any spots you can find. so you get a result like this:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    also cleaned up any spots starting around the trunk outer, and license plate mount. Exhaust will be replaced.
    [​IMG]
    this side was much better. I got carried away, and cleaned up the rust in the trunk. ( no real holes, just there was rusted crap around the spare wheel that got out of hand)
    [​IMG]
    those are the Bumper clips. and a random screw.

    Next, use the rust changer, and the brush provided. i had some "Holts Sabi (re:Rust) Changer. until my friend lol'd at my puny paintbrush. and gave me the hardcore stuff and a bigger brush.
    - regular products will work just fine. ( just i was repairing my car at a paint shop. [​IMG] where it sits until roadworthy.)
    [​IMG]
    Apply to all of your exposed Areas. . .
    [​IMG]
    The Rust goes really dark when it has cured. you can paint on it after about 30mins. - i did all sides, and the trunk.
    Then get your Under Body paint (also known as "Stone Chip") and give it a good solid coat. to protect it in the future. like this:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The Gray Primered areas are going to be repaired, and resprayed by a pro. (For free= Thrift) At the same time my Replacement Bumper, rear wing, hood, and new Gas filler door get painted.
    oh yeah, did the trunk too!
    [​IMG]

    Some times it's what other people can't see that makes for a quality product. when the spare wheel goes in, with the plugs, floor and carpets, only i will know. and you guys too i guess.
    there you have it, one step closer to driving this bad boy. and i can rest assured that there is no rust under the skin of my car. Total cost (Excluding tools) ?? - $30.

    Give it a try, when you got some time to burn. Stay tuned, Next job will be a full Brake Caliper/Disc replacement so those who are wary of doing your Brakes? popcorn this slot. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  5. Randomore

    Randomore Senior member

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    My father in law is a car enthusiast who has quite a few classic cars in his garage. A few months ago I mentioned needing to replace brake pads soon. He told me to come over and he'll show me how to do it.

    The dealer quoted me $200 per car... Ended up just buying the pads and installing them in 10 mins at his garage lol.

    I couldn't believe how easy it was and how much I saved!

    I wish I took pictures but it was pretty rewarding to do it myself too.
     


  6. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    Saving money is a win. but the rewarding feeling that you saved money by doing it yourself? -priceless. [​IMG]
    It's awesome you learned it. and had some good times with your father in law. You are right, Brakes are simple and easy. it's good you were shown properly.

    any questions for any car related topic can be answered by one of us resident "Car guys". so stick around, plenty of fun to be had.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  7. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    I have a few little >5mm chips/dings on my hood from stones thrown up on the highway, and they're starting to rust where the bare metal was exposed. I just bought a bottle of touch-up paint in the right color. Any tips on sanding out the rust and repainting these spots?
     


  8. Cj52racers

    Cj52racers Senior member

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    Mostly depends if you want it to be acceptable or perfect, haha. The easiest way to make them acceptable is to get a tiny artist brush (like a #1 I think). Use alcohol to clean the area and remove any wax. Then use small coats until the thickness is similar to the surrounding area. Roughly 15-20 minutes in between coats. It won't look perfect up close, but should help protect from spreading. Getting them to look perfect is a pain and I've never really attempted, so I won't be much help there.
     


  9. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Senior member

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    WOW! That is very impressive. I never did learn how to do body/paint work. Great job Vader!
     


  10. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    This car already has scratches, dings, and some hail dimples all over, so acceptable should be quite fine. I'm just trying to keep it from spreading.

    It's a 2004 Toyota Corolla with 160K on it, and my total lifetime non-routine maintenance expenditure on it so far is around $700. I fully plan on getting another 150K or more out of it, and I don't want the body falling to pieces before I get there.
     


  11. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    pics? you can hide your plate, i just wanna see that color and how bad it is.

    it's a case by case thing. the way you mentioned is great. good for that one chip that needs doing. but there just isn't enough to warrant a bigger effort.
    the other way is to tape it off. sand it down. grab a can of spray putty, a can of primer, a can of color match, and a can of clear.
    sand it down along the hood edge, until you can't feel the dips, tape it up 2 inches from the edge, spray putty, sand, primer, sand, paint, sand, paint, light sand, clear, ultra light sand. polish.
    you can lay the paint heavy close to the edges, and fade it out another few inches past your taped line. so it blends. much easier with dark metallics. a few more tips involved, but i will leave it at that. - would be about $50.

    Thanks Mang! [​IMG] it's fun to learn. just hard to do like a pro. keeping it simple.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  12. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Senior member

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    Here. Crappy pics 'cause it's spitting rain, but this should give you an idea. Pennies for scale and placement reference. There are a few more I didn't have pennies for, but that's the general size and distribution.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  13. whiteslashasian

    whiteslashasian Senior member

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    Cross posted from the Cars We Drive thread.

    So far they've held up really well for the 2 months they've been on. Zero oxidation or issues so far! Hoping they last up to the end of the 7 year warranty period.

     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2015


  14. Cj52racers

    Cj52racers Senior member

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    That came out awesome man! Nice work, I'm going to have to do that soon. Thanks for posting!
     


  15. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

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    Hmmmm... those are really spread out. if you plan to just run up the miles and scrap it later? you can dab on some rust converter with a small paint brush. and then spot paint as @Cj52racers suggested. or, you could sand it all down, spot de-rust it. and prime/sand it smooth. buy a 1\2 quart colormatch paint, hand it over to a pro, and pay them to throw on the paint and for them to use some clear they will have kicking around. if you did the time consuming part yourself? it will save you money. and you will have a darn good result.
    Sweet! You really went to town on those. and it looks great! awesome job. [​IMG]

    +100,000
     


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