The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by eckblk, Jun 10, 2011.

  1. onijo84

    onijo84 Senior member

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    Imo, i would go for the L0s. But thats me. Like what the others have said, go with what you want to wear.
     


  2. 1974

    1974 Well-Known Member

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    Puh, this is bullshit. Cheaper means not lower quality.

    Guidi = goodyear welted !!!
    Layer-0 = blake welted => lower quality

    From what i know only A1923, CCP and Guidi are goodyear welted. Right?
     


  3. eckblk

    eckblk Senior member

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    Darklands just got their 1st A1923 shipment in:

    3rd iteration of the red sole workboot ( 1st time in reverse calf I think)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  4. MickeyPunch

    MickeyPunch Senior member

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    Any of the brands discussed here have a clean / non-distressed look? Some MA+ or IS, perhaps? I don't think I've seen any Guidi or A1923 boots that don't have a worn in effect.
     


  5. MickeyPunch

    MickeyPunch Senior member

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    This is a bit surprising, considering that even some cheap boots are goodyear welted (I have a pair of 200$ Sendra biker boots which have goodyear welt). Is it because goodyear welt in "fatto a mano" boots is much harder to do?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014


  6. DividedWay

    DividedWay Senior member

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    Oh the welting shit again. Guidi is Goodyear welted, layer 0, IS and MA+ are Blake welted, A1923 is hand welted, and I don't know about CCP. There is some variation, but this is the majority of what I see.

    Now then. Quality wise, Blake stitching actually has less glue than Goodyear welting. It can be redone by a competing cobbler with a Blake machine. More importantly, especially for IS and MA+, Goodyear welts would look horrible for the aesthetic. Blake stitching is used because the aesthetic is about simplicity and the leather, and having a massive welt jutting out would throw a wrench in the works. Blake is different, but not worse, than Goodyear welting. Hand welting is better than both. We usually Vibram the boots and shoes in here anyway, so it doesn't matter.
     


  7. ceoceo

    ceoceo Senior member

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    Asked many times before, but mostly for folks in the East Coast.

    Where do I resole my guidis, preferably in the MidWest? Thanks
     


  8. onijo84

    onijo84 Senior member

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    How do you know?
     


  9. DividedWay

    DividedWay Senior member

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    Atelier posted last September that A1923 was switching to all hand welted shoes.
     


  10. onijo84

    onijo84 Senior member

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    Afaik, the only ones that are actually hand welted are from the mmoria range and the L0 rendenbach derbies. What were they using/doing prior to the switch?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014


  11. DividedWay

    DividedWay Senior member

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    The l0 redenbach were Goodyear welted, not hand welted I believe. A1923 was using a variety of welts, but mostly Goodyear before switching
     


  12. Magic1

    Magic1 Senior member

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    I highly doubt that guidi is goodyear welted.

    The difference between blake and good year in regards to styling really depends on how it's done. Though some of ma+ shoes could not have as clean of a line with goodyear, the double sole models could all have been done with good year (though the weren't). Just look at george cleverly or edward green goodyear welted lines to see how clean they can look.

    Simone also said he worked for carpe diem, and that wasn't true. I don't believe they're hand welted.
     


  13. DividedWay

    DividedWay Senior member

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    Turned up a 2006 article citing Simone as part of CD though. But more importantly, none of these shoes are going to whither in a year. Put protective soles on, don't worry about welts.

    Article: http://jcreport.com/the-great-secession/
     


  14. Magic1

    Magic1 Senior member

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    I read on sz that that was just flat out wrong, but maybe that was wrong..
     


  15. DividedWay

    DividedWay Senior member

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    From GBS- The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.
     


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