The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

[onijo84]

Imo, i would go for the L0s. But thats me. Like what the others have said, go with what you want to wear.

 

[1974]

you guys really just threw a wrench into my whole decision making process. I think I like the guidi's more but it is hard to turn down higher quality shoes for less than the guidi's will cost.

Guidi

Pros:
Softer leather (kangaroo)
Lighter
White sole edge
Less rigid construction
Lower heel(?) can someone confirm this?

Cons:
(slightly) lower quality
perhaps less striking?
Won't get here until July

Layer-0

Pros:
Higher quality
Smoother leather (cordovan)
Less generic
Cheaper (by around $50)
Available immediately

Cons:
Looks more yellowish to me
Extra long laces that wrap around (obviously not a huge deal)
Potential Stiffness
Natural edge sole

Here is a picture for reference

Puh, this is bullshit. Cheaper means not lower quality.

Guidi = goodyear welted !!!
Layer-0 = blake welted => lower quality

From what i know only A1923, CCP and Guidi are goodyear welted. Right?

 

[eckblk]

Darklands just got their 1st A1923 shipment in:

3rd iteration of the red sole workboot ( 1st time in reverse calf I think)

 

[MickeyPunch]

Any of the brands discussed here have a clean / non-distressed look? Some MA+ or IS, perhaps? I don't think I've seen any Guidi or A1923 boots that don't have a worn in effect.

 

[MickeyPunch]

Puh, this is bullshit. Cheaper means not lower quality.

Guidi = goodyear welted !!!
Layer-0 = blake welted => lower quality

From what i know only A1923, CCP and Guidi are goodyear welted. Right?

This is a bit surprising, considering that even some cheap boots are goodyear welted (I have a pair of 200$ Sendra biker boots which have goodyear welt). Is it because goodyear welt in "fatto a mano" boots is much harder to do?

 

[DividedWay]

Oh the welting **** again. Guidi is Goodyear welted, layer 0, IS and MA+ are Blake welted, A1923 is hand welted, and I don't know about CCP. There is some variation, but this is the majority of what I see.

Now then. Quality wise, Blake stitching actually has less glue than Goodyear welting. It can be redone by a competing cobbler with a Blake machine. More importantly, especially for IS and MA+, Goodyear welts would look horrible for the aesthetic. Blake stitching is used because the aesthetic is about simplicity and the leather, and having a massive welt jutting out would throw a wrench in the works. Blake is different, but not worse, than Goodyear welting. Hand welting is better than both. We usually Vibram the boots and shoes in here anyway, so it doesn't matter.

 

[ceoceo]

Asked many times before, but mostly for folks in the East Coast.

Where do I resole my guidis, preferably in the MidWest? Thanks

 

[onijo84]



Oh the welting **** again. Guidi is Goodyear welted, layer 0, IS and MA+ are Blake welted, A1923 is hand welted, and I don't know about CCP. There is some variation, but this is the majority of what I see.

How do you know?

 

[DividedWay]

Atelier posted last September that A1923 was switching to all hand welted shoes.

 

[onijo84]

Afaik, the only ones that are actually hand welted are from the mmoria range and the L0 rendenbach derbies. What were they using/doing prior to the switch?

 

[DividedWay]

The l0 redenbach were Goodyear welted, not hand welted I believe. A1923 was using a variety of welts, but mostly Goodyear before switching

 

[Magic1]

I highly doubt that guidi is goodyear welted.

The difference between blake and good year in regards to styling really depends on how it's done. Though some of ma+ shoes could not have as clean of a line with goodyear, the double sole models could all have been done with good year (though the weren't). Just look at george cleverly or edward green goodyear welted lines to see how clean they can look.

Simone also said he worked for carpe diem, and that wasn't true. I don't believe they're hand welted.

 

[DividedWay]

Turned up a 2006 article citing Simone as part of CD though. But more importantly, none of these shoes are going to whither in a year. Put protective soles on, don't worry about welts.

Article: http://jcreport.com/the-great-secession/

 

[Magic1]

I read on sz that that was just flat out wrong, but maybe that was wrong..

 

[DividedWay]

From GBS- The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.