Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by eckblk, Jun 10, 2011.
I don't want any of the clothes or shoes. Give me that closet.
Guy's closet looks like a showroom. Pretty jealous..
That's what I thought. I probably want some of the clothes and shoes too though.
i've never found an augusta style i loved but i'm more into round than pointed these days, i'm really particular about the toebox shape i guess
cd is the best, guidi toebox looks too blobby in some photos and in some they're good, i like margiela og toebox but for these brands i think the japanese brands do it decently
so depressing, everything including closet black i'd kill myself if i had to get dressed to that
i'd prefer some dark canadian maple instead, or black walnut, or some exotic wood with some fucking character
conceptually it is pretty baller though
Can somebody explain guidi to me, or link me to the history? Sorry for being such a noob. Why do many of these brands/designers seem to have little or no online presence outside of these and other forums?
A1923 AW14-15 = Wow!
U- just saw it too. Love that some of the older styles are coming back.
Guidi leather or footwear? If the latter, here is a great read:
I just happened to stumble upon this site and the current forum and have enjoyed everyone's comments. If possible, I would like to add something from the designer side of things...
I am a designer and colleague of Maurizio Altieri. We both showed our first Paris collections in the same place in 1993 along the banks of the Seine. We both have had many ups and downs in our careers. This business is like that.
He was showing Carpe Diem, although a very different concept than what it later became, and I was pioneering the crazy concept at the time, that an American designer could do avant-garde in Paris and actually make it, (Rick Owens, Jeremy Scott and quite a few others followed later).
Without going into details, we took off for awhile doing some of the world's earliest recycled designer work and grew a lot. But Maurizio suffered a lot during the next five years and made huge personal sacrifices before beginning his truly successful run with Carpe Diem. And I respect him as a friend and as one of the few real artists in the field, so I need to point out that he alone was the pioneer and creator of the look that so many have been imitating and copying in the past 4 years. Period.
This is the real and important difference people need to know about the 3 different brands.
And this is why when you really look at the pieces carefully from all aspects, there is a real difference. Without Maurizio, none of the other 2 brands would even look the way they do, if even exist at all. I know the fellow behind Guidi. Yes, he was the leather supplier for Maurizio. And with all respect to him and to the wonderful writer who posted earlier in this forum, I do not think he is Jesus. He is a very shrewd businessman. Believe me, I have learned in this business to spot them from miles away. He supplied Maurizio, saw how much money CD was making, and started supplying many others, then coming to Paris every designer week, and then surprise-- doing his own label too (even hiring ex CD salespeople to contact the stores for him), eventually replacing CD in many stores because he sold look alikes for less. Pure business. No more. No less. 99.9 percent of the industry works this way. H&M and Zara are no different. The price you pay for Maurizio is higher and justifiably so. Somebody had to start the whole thing. The idea. The research. The first prototypes. The first orders and distribution (Maurizio even went personally himself to the stores to write the first orders door to door). The lower price for Guidi is cool, but I really have to emphasize, that the purchaser is not getting the same thing, and people need to know.
The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.
As for the defunct Carpe-Diem thing, I also want to say that it was a voluntary decision by Maurizio. CD was very successful and he did very well with it. But what would you do in his shoes, if you had created a very special artistic thing and saw your partners all try to become exploiters of the concept in their own interests? You might get sick of the whole thing and shut the doors too. Man does not live by bread alone. Real artists even more so.
The fact is that Maurizio's work and contribution are his alone. And those that want the real thing need to understand that his brand is the original and the authentic one. Those that want look alikes can settle for the others. And new emerging designers that want to make a serious contribution need to invent really new things that are truly theirs alone---then hang on long enough and survive the rest of the industry (from suppliers to retailers) that will copy them a million times over and try to make sure the buying public knows nothing about them. Believe me, there are some really good working designers out there being blocked by an industry trying to play safer and safer every season. But that's another story.
If you only knew what really goes on in this industry...
That's all I have time for. I have late store deliveries waiting and another Paris collection coming up in 5 weeks. Sorry, I hope I have not pissed anybody off with my comments. If so, I apologize profusely. I only wanted to give Maurizio Altieri some due credit for his contribution to the field.
Thanks for reading and best wishes to all,
Geoffrey B. Small
^i remember that post when he made it
pics of new collection guys, i'm lazy
Pretty interesting read and also that he himself is a designer and for him to make a statement like that in a public forum it's pretty ballsy.
^^^ yep that write up aboit guidi was real eye opener - thought of searching for it as well. @eck Ref: a1923 - any link to new collection pls! Thx
RE: A1923 AW14 images. There is no link & I have specifically been asked not to share or post pics.
I suggest you contact your stockist that you guys buy your A1923 stuff from or at least have some kind of business relationship with. They are probably viewing the collection in Paris at the moment.
That was precisely what I was getting at when I pointed out that guidi was a tannery, not a bootmaker, and certainly very far removed from a fashion house.
Guidi doesn't really "design" anything beyond materials. They take fairly standard silhouettes and remove toecaps, stiffeners, some stitching so that the leather creases badly with wear.
Fit and price aside, it would be insanity to suggest that guidi competes on the same artistic level as cdiem etc. does.
^^ what u say is logical and yet i wear my guidi backzips tons more then my augustas - they just look great with any pants ( especially BBS pants for ex) I guess the few designs they have, just work real well. Regarding quality i had absolutely no issues after a year of daily wear ( even through canadian winter)
I'm relieved I'm not the only one that doesn't really "get" Guidi, at least
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