The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

[cyc wid it]

Hmmm 30 pairs all the same style? Or mix and match possibilities?

 

[objection]

dont know if this has been posted

m_moria pictures

http://www.leparadox.com/fashion/maurizio-altieri-m_moriabc/

Quote:
particularly interested in c but might be too formal/dressy for my liking. hope there are some fit pics soon

 

[sissypee]

Would someone think the wearer forgot his outer pants if he goes out like that?

Those long johns has been perfectly executed in this particular fit, which happens to be one of my favorite CCP fits:

 

[nahneun]

every time i see pictures of m_moria, i curse myself for not having more money. goddamn, the b and c lasts are amazing.

 

[uzairh]



Are there any photos that show the differences between the A, B, and C lasts? 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/248835/...shoe-thread-700usd-min/13700_100#post_7463879

Uzairh, thats interesting. Any pictures/further details?

IIRC, that particular sole is used on the sneakers, but not sure if they can be put on the other models as well.
Here is a pic:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[brad-t]

Interesting to see pretty much everyone come around on m_moria (price notwithstanding), perhaps it was just too ahead of its time at first :')

(Or everyone was too hung up on Carpe)

 

[nahneun]



Interesting to see pretty much everyone come around on m_moria (price notwithstanding), perhaps it was just too ahead of its time at first :')

(Or everyone was too hung up on Carpe)

once i saw the sleeker lasts, i thought, "THIS IS IT. THIS IS AS CLOSE TO PERFECTION AS YOU'LL GET."

 

[sinnedk]



Here's the write-up, was gonna post something similar here but it tends to get buried under the freewheeling nature of this thread
I don't think there's enough out there to dedicate a whole thread to m_moriabc, but maybe as the brand matures

Long text below

Spoiler

Visited the M_moriabc exhibition last week, quite impressed with the work. I first saw the shoes in the CdG shop a couple years ago and didn't give them much thought - they were sitting on a rack under completely unrelated clothes and I wasn't even sure they were for sale until I flipped them over (and the price subsequently caused my eyes to shoot out the back of my head.)

The line has come quite a long ways in the last couple years and the samples on display at the exhibition were nothing short of stunning. Just to re-cap what may have already been posted, the collection will be available entirely made-to-order, completely customizable - no stores (at least in Japan) will carry the line.

All the shoes are completely handmade with no metal parts. Nails are made from wood and there's no zipper models. There's three lasts (A, B, and C) with some variation for lifted toes. The A last is closest to the traditional Carpe shape, with a bulbous toebox, the C last is quite a futuristic looking, sleeker shape that would pair well with a suit, and the B last is somewhere in between. The A and C lasts were the standouts for me, depending on what you're after. Different welt options are available, including a Norwegian/storm welt, which fits the aesthetic very well.

On top of the three lasts, there are nine different styles (for a total of 27 different combinations), including derbies, ankle boots, chelsea boots, sneakers, and some other interesting designs including a diagonal hidden lace derby (similar to an MA+ design) where the laces thread through the foot opening and tie in the back. Some designs, like the aforementioned hidden lace model, lean a bit more feminine, but all can be done in any sizing.

The leather is all cordovan - reverse or smooth side, sourced from Horween. They're fully lined in calf, and I believe the sole is buffalo or bison, though I may be mistaken on that. Some of the reverse models have the Horween stamp showing. There's quite a few color choices, with the more remarkable ones being a lovely maroon and a deep eggplant purple. Even the laces are customizable, with hemp (a bit unwieldy to tie), woven cotton, and waxed cotton options available. The laces aren't cut - they're a single "infinity" lace and can be cut after purchase or just wrapped around in a creative way to preserve the effect.

At the actual exhibition, the presentation of the shoes was fantastic, with a fair number of styles in each last shown in a darkened room and a flashlight to inspect them. The construction and craftsman ship is absolutely superb - I don't have much experience with dress shoes, but they "felt" much more akin to a handmade shoe like John Lobb than the brands typically discussed here where the focus is more on leather quality and treatment than on design and construction. The smooth and simple cordovan really lets the other aspects of the shoes shine through. They all felt surprisingly light, yet very, very "solid." As an aside, I was wearing a pair of big white A1923 boots and they just felt downright unwieldy and a bit pretentious after handling the M_moriabc items.

The fit on all models I tried on (derbies and ankle boots on the A and C lasts) was just about perfect. I've never had a shoe, let alone one made from cordovan, feel so good right out of the box. The C last in particular adhered very well to the contours of my foot. I have a high instep (a problem with some models of Carpe boots), but these fit fine. There's padding and shaping in the insole negating the need for a separate supportive insole. The fit my was biggest surprise - I had no clue they were going to feel so good on my feet, especially given my past experiences with cordovan.

All-in-all, just thoroughly impressed with what I saw and tried. It's a bit hard to look at other footwear at the moment. Excuse the hyperbole, but I thought Carpe Diem had perfected the shape and design of a men's boot, but somehow M_moriabc has one-upped its predecessors and made a more perfect boot. As an aside, Mr. Altieri himself was a very down-to-earth and pleasant person and also very proud and passionate regarding his work - a very positive experience, as the personality of the designer does ultimately affect my impression of the brand. Jun Hashimoto is also an amazing person who took quite a bit of time to explain the work and help me try on different models. I also won't feel so bad about wearing my Jun Hashimoto Carpe Diem "knockoffs" knowing they're on good terms [smile]

I promised not to upload my own pics to the internet, but there's a some floating around instagram, including via the following store:
https://instagram.com/quattro_oda/

Had some time to think about this.

I handled MM and yes its great quality. However, i am still not sold on MM. Altieri is selling a 5k product and i appreciate him being passionate/dedicated.

Altieri was (still is) quite impressive with CD because there were all of these amazing options. You want clean you have clean, you want distressed we have distressed. I understand his passion is to create something completely pure, but the issue with that is... pure is not interesting. Also, why only footwear? He can do much more.

Look at what Cdiem did, it spawned so many amazing designers to do their own thing (MA+, Hushimoto, LUC, etc). They are all doing something interesting to me. And i am happy i can cherry pic things i like from each one of them. I am also happy A1923/CCP are around with their designs.

Altieri being quiet for a a long time and popping up with occasional collaborations hasn't done anything out of the ordinary. He got great leather, made a great boot.

Would i want a MM boot, sure, would i pay 5k for it? nope, i just don't appreciate it for 5k. I understand we all crossed the spending lines in this thread and thats not the chief concern. But i find a1923/ccp/ma+/L0 all more interesting.

FWIW, i love that he is doing something like this and i really appreciate and want that kind of creativity whether i like it or not! I will definitely follow MM and progression and maybe eventually he'll make something i like. But for now i'll be on the sidelines observing the evolution.

 

[brad-t]

ok but what if they made a shoe in super-distressed horse

 

[sinnedk]



ok but what if they made a shoe in super-distressed horse

Since you are actually trying to chat for once and not being rude, i'll reply.

"what if they made a shoe in super-distressed horse?"

Not at all what i was implying. I am not looking for him to use distressed leathers. As i stated i am not into super distressed (only on occasion) in fact i lean to clean leathers with minimal folding. I prefer the leather to speak for itself in terms of scarring, graining and aging process. To me the best boot is the one that came clean and was worn and developed character... patina. For example, worn in non reverse, minimal scarred ma+ or CCP. (i'm sure attachment will look great as well but cannot speak of it due to my size not being available). MM will look great and will patina great, but the shapes and lasts aren't doing it for me.

 

[Mulan]

He can market this line with hand made and no metal parts used as a reason for the 5k mark, but that kind of price is too ahead of it's time, like old Jill. As of now, and I'm sure many feel the same way, anything priced over ccp in this alternative fashion scene("avant garde" is so overused) will be looked over (boris) as nothing is as distinct.

 

[MickeyPunch]

Speaking of Altieri... I can see very few pairs of Avantindietro compared to Carpes in the second hand market. Any particular reason? Was a more limited run? And if so, is it because it wasn't successful?

To be honest most Carpes look better to me than the Avantindietro I've seen.

 

[Abraxis]

Most of the post-carpe lines were pretty short-lived.

 

[sinnedk]



He can market this line with hand made and no metal parts used as a reason for the 5k mark, but that kind of price is too ahead of it's time, like old Jill. As of now, and I'm sure many feel the same way, anything priced over ccp in this alternative fashion scene("avant garde" is so overused) will be looked over (boris) as nothing is as distinct. 

I agree and thats what i think he is focusing on this being more of a MTO project. I think i read that somewhere thats how he is planning to run this.

Are you mostly into CCP for footwear?

 

[uzairh]



Do they do greyish or white color boots?

Have not seen white, but there has been some gray.