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*** The official and awesome DIY thread ***

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Apr 6, 2011.

  1. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    Lovely work again. Careful or you'll start getting commissions :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Thank you,

    The "fork/rake'chisel" things are called Pricking Irons. They set the spacing of each stitch, 9 stitches per inch in this case. They are struck with a mallet and leave an impression in the leather. You then pass a sharp awl through the impression creating the hole that the thread will pass through.

    As for skiving, it is done with the broad, flat blade (3rd tool to the right of the Pricking Irons).

    Chris
     
    3 people like this.
  3. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Thank you.

    You know where to find me :satisfied:
     
  4. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Your stitches are so neat! Great work again.
     
  5. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Sorry for the delay, just say your comment now, thank you very much!
     
  6. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Thank you, Naka
     
  7. ertu

    ertu Well-Known Member

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    How do you make the leather stiff enough to stitch with? I have seen some leather hides in leather supply stores and they are soft, as if they have been broken in already but without the wrinkles. I don't want that. I am looking for the stiff leather (like a board) like I have seen on the leather bags in high-end mens clothing stores.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  8. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    You'll want to use "natural veg tan" leather, saddle skirting, Latigo, or English Bridle if you are looking for very firm, stiff leather.

    This is the kind of leather used in traditional english document cases and briefcases (and obviously saddles)

    However, stiff leather is not suited for duffels, women's bags, pphone and tablet sleeves, etc.


    That being said, It all depends on what you want to make.
     
  9. blackderbyhat

    blackderbyhat Active Member

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    Repainted my GATs after they got torn apart. 3 layers of gesso. Sanded in between each layer. 2 Layers of angelus direct white paint. Sanded. 2 More layers. Finished with the angelus acrylic finisher.

    I wanted the sheen, so imo they turned out pretty good. Looks like patent leather.

    mid first layer of gesso i think
    [​IMG]

    after first layer of gesso
    [​IMG]

    finished
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The originals looked closer to the second picture in terms of paint thickness, but had more of a sheen that I haven't really seen on any of the DIY painted GATs I've seen. Mine go overboard on it, but I'm happy with the results.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2015
    7 people like this.
  10. troika

    troika Senior member

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    @kindofyoung I've been doing some shoulder alterations on some stuff recently, and I'm guessing you're not entirely unfamiliar with doing your own tailoring. I would say the trick is matching up the shape of the shoulder cut on the body vs the sleeves.

    It's difficult because if you make the body cut larger at the shoulder, it won't line up with the sides of the coat (the armpit will stick out relative to the shoulder), and if you trim away at the sleeve the original tapering might make it too small for the body hole. I'm not sure what the solution is, but I would def seek a pro tailor to help you out at first, or at least try it on something you're willing to throw out like a shirt.

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Horween Essex watch band, Made it for a friend for Christmas

    Hand sewn, lined and padded with veg tan.

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  12. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    @blackderbyhat or anyone,

    I defaced my cream GATs with a drop of red dye, and it was exascerbated when someone tried to clean it off and spread it around. Now it just looks like a shit stain. It's only on a couple of the side panels on one shoe. What type of paint should I use, and how can I color match to the current color (I don't want to paint the whole two shoes) It's these:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. canstyleace

    canstyleace Senior member

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    Or,,, you could just go full pollock on them
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    No, the stains are really ugly. Plus I LOVE the cream color. I was disgusted with what happened.
     
  15. blackderbyhat

    blackderbyhat Active Member

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    Personally I'd just do a thin layer of a tinted gesso. (Buy white gesso and cream acrylic, mix until you've got a color you like) You want something flexible and matte, so it sounds like it would work just fine.

    Look at my first photo for an example of thickness & result.

    It's really hard to match paints like that though. You'll know if you've ever had to paint a patched hole in a wall. Id probably paint half the shoe in a style like this. [​IMG]

    Or just have some backup idea for if the painted over spot just looks like a disease
     
  16. blackderbyhat

    blackderbyhat Active Member

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    The panels do take paint pretty nicely though. You shouldn't really have a problem with it cracking on you. This was after a couple layers iirc

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    Thanks! I'll give it a shot.
     
  18. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

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    Wow, love the detail on the strap-stays. Excellent work.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. blue collar

    blue collar Senior member

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    Thanks very much.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. kindofyoung

    kindofyoung Senior member

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    Maybe this is stupid, but has anyone tried turning a "normal" derby-sole into a wedge one?
    Like, simply just filling out the "gap" between the heel and front pad with a block of rubber/wood/whatever, paint the whole side of the sole black, put on a topy?

    To illustrate
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    You obviously dont get the same comfort as if it was a real wedge/crepe sole but besides that I can't really see any reason why this wouldn't work.
    (I need some new derbies but finding decently priced wedge sole ones is nigh impossible)
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016

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