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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by jet, Nov 3, 2008.

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  1. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    good looking chukka. I completely agree with your logic on it
     
  2. milesbeyond

    milesbeyond Well-Known Member

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    What were the two pair from J. Gilbert? I guess I should stop by their shop; I live in Seattle.

    Worth trying for those Ravello's on eBay, then? I admit, they do look dark to me, but I haven't seen any Ravello in person.
     
  3. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    for comparison sake here is a recent pic of my Ravello Chukkas
     
  4. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    every time I see ravello chukkas I rage cause I cannot find them in 11.5
     
  5. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    nephew,
    wear your gunboats in good health
     
  6. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    nephew,
    i like your cigar and argyles
     
  7. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    nephew,
    good looking chukkas family
     
  8. totalair1

    totalair1 Senior member

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    Please give me the necessary info. I want to give sale a whirl!

    See Ya,
    Steve
     
  9. TactileOne

    TactileOne Senior member

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    Atlanta area
    You need to go on line and sign up for corporate discount first then use your corporate card to purchase on 5/22.
     
  10. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    I'd be curious to hear which of these you wear the most.
     
  11. Matto ELITE

    Matto ELITE Senior member

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    Can I say one thing to you? And I say this with an unblemished record of staunch heterosexuality ... It's fabulous.
     
  12. matt92037

    matt92037 Well-Known Member

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  13. 100 yrs

    100 yrs Senior member

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    I had these at one point, but sold them. I'd say they'd be pretty great in a place that gets a lot of snow and rain. The kudu leather is pretty heavily oiled an the sole is very comfy.
     
  14. CTYGGG

    CTYGGG Senior member

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    Cigar.
     
  15. Rishi Kakar

    Rishi Kakar Senior member

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    Thank you Repp Tieprepster, those are beautiful shoes. Is the BB version exactly the same as the Alden version ie. on the aberdeen last?
    Thank you very much for sharing your pictures. Much Appreciate!
     
  16. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    Not surprising.
     
  17. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    There will be subtle fit differences between types of leathers. This fit difference has everything to do with the properties of the leather (thickness, malleablility, ability to stretch, etc.). On initial fitting, the difference is often caused by how tightly the leather can be stretched over the last. For example, cowhide shoes may run a half size larger than the same shoe made from calfskin. Down the road, and after the shoes have been thoroughly broken in, some leathers will give more than others, effecting fit.

    None of these differences have anything to do with the welt, however. Alden uses different welts for their shoes and boots, and you can get the same boot with different welts, depending upon the makeup. A storm-welt and a Goodyear-welt are not mutually exclusive, and they have nothing to do with fit. Goodyear-welted shoes all use the same basic method of construction, but different welts can be used in the manufactering process (a storm-welt is one of these). The welt exists to bind the upper, insole, and outsole together, and provide a basis for easy resoling while keeping the rest of the shoe together. There is some inconsistency between shoe manufacterers when it comes to welt terminology. Some call them Split-Reverse Storm Welts, for example. It is really more of an aesthetic addition to the shoe to give it a heavier appearance.

    True storm welts (see this source: http://www.barbourcorp.com/pdf/welting_catalog.pdf) are built slightly differently and have more of a rounded bead effect up against the leather. It will act more like weatherstripping on a door. It will do a bit more to keep water out, but even they are not perfect. It is simply the best that can really be expected short of going to more modern methods and materials such as Gore-tex or using molded rubber soles that bond to the leather upper like many hiking/work/hunting boots.

    Sometimes you will see a line of stitching around the upturned edge of the split-reverse welt, and many people have believed that this is an additional line of stitching that is sealing the upturned edge using waxed thread to prevent water entry. This isn't the case, however. The stitching in those cases is false, and it is purely decorative. These are sometimes called "fudge welts." Alden uses these as well.

    If the shoe is Goodyear-welted, these are pretty much the main options.



    Alternatively, a Norwegian welt (not to be confused with the Norwegian Split-Toe design which is a decorative stitching of the uppers) actually has two functional rows of stitching. See this diagram:

    [​IMG]

    Therefore, if you see a shoe with two rows of stitching, first determine if it is Goodyear-welted, or Norwegian welt construction. If it is Goodyear-welted (as most high-end shoes are) then one of the above scenarios should apply. If it is Norwegian (again, not to be confused with the Norwegian Split-Toe design which is a decorative stitching of the uppers), then the crossection of this diagram is what you are looking at.

    I know you may not have wanted such a long answer, but a more thorough knowledge of the role that a welt plays in shoe construction may help you understand why it isn't an aspect of fit. Fit is determined by the shape and size of the last first, and can be slightly effected by the leather type, and insole characteristics (foam insoles vs. all leather insoles lead to different fits).
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013
  18. MrDV

    MrDV Senior member

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    #8 and suede saddles x jcrew

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. BeSpiffington

    BeSpiffington Senior member

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    Thank you very much Uncle.
     
  20. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    Love these!!
     
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