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The Official Alden Thread for 2021 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice, and Photos.

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Ancestral Star

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frankmartin

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@BAK @jpm1 Thank you for the information!

I can easily understand why the ortho heel requires the 270 degree welt in terms of its shape and balancing of weight underneath the heel. With a 360 degree welt, the heel of the shoe is wider than the heel of the foot and the benefit of the ortho heel may then be lost. It seems like there's probably a technical reason for this.

However I don't understand why the neocork sole "requires" the ortho heel (and therefore the 270 degree welt) other than simplifying the options. Seems like it *could be* used with a fairly normal stacked leather heel and rubber top lift, Alden just chooses not to?
 
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savvysartorial

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Hump day full strap

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Vincent George

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Mornin', pals. Suede question: do you all immediately use invulner / nano spray before the first wear, or should I just raw dog these new Dade Indys? I'm honestly half excited for denim stains...
 

audog

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Mornin', pals. Suede question: do you all immediately use invulner / nano spray before the first wear, or should I just raw dog these new Dade Indys? I'm honestly half excited for denim stains...
I spray all suede before first wear with one of either of the two you mentioned, but that's just because I KNOW that if I don't, I will inevitably spill something on them.
 

madhat

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Mornin', pals. Suede question: do you all immediately use invulner / nano spray before the first wear, or should I just raw dog these new Dade Indys? I'm honestly half excited for denim stains...
I never spray my suede. I haven't had a stain that I couldn't get out with a bit of cornstarch and sit time.
 

Vincent George

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I spray all suede before first wear with one of either of the two you mentioned, but that's just because I KNOW that if I don't, I will inevitably spill something on them.
I never spray my suede. I haven't had a stain that I couldn't get out with a bit of cornstarch and sit time.

I love the variations, gents! Admittedly, I am an absolute slob though...
 

ryebreadiest

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I spray all suede before first wear with one of either of the two you mentioned, but that's just because I KNOW that if I don't, I will inevitably spill something on them.
Same, that nano stuff is great. No change to the suede color or feel, and I’ve dropped both black coffee and spaghetti sauce with beef grease in it to absolutely no permanent effect. It’s the best few bucks you can invest in your suede IMO.
 

BAK

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@BAK @jpm1 Thank you for the information!

I can easily understand why the ortho heel requires the 270 degree welt in terms of its shape and balancing of weight underneath the heel. With a 360 degree welt, the heel of the shoe is wider than the heel of the foot and the benefit of the ortho heel may then be lost. It seems like there's probably a technical reason for this.

However I don't understand why the neocork sole "requires" the ortho heel (and therefore the 270 degree welt) other than simplifying the options. Seems like it *could be* used with a fairly normal stacked leather heel and rubber top lift, Alden just chooses not to?
Ortho heels are paired with 270 welts for practical reasons. As you mentioned regarding heel width, typically if you look at the profile of a 270 shoe you'll see the shoe itself overhangs the heel, while on a 360 welted shoe the heel over hangs the shoe. Most non-ortho heels (such as McAfee/leather) begin their life much larger/wider than the shoe itself and get trimmed to whatever size they need to be, whether to accommodate a broader 360 welted heel area or a trimmer 270 heel area. But ortho heels are made in graduated sizes to accommodate graduated shoe sizes (let's say the smallest ortho heel covers sizes 5-7, next largest heel covers 7.5-9.5, etc etc - it would also vary according to last). The point being the ortho heels don't start off a lot wider than the shoes themselves, like a leather heel would. So because they're smaller they don't easily cover the surface area that would be created by a broader 360 welted shoe. Yes, in certain circumstances you could possibly pair an ortho heel with a 360 welt shoe (last/size dependent etc), but it's not an easy task, typically doesn't work and so as a general rule it's 270 only with ortho.

To your second point, I don't know the exact answer, but it likely has to do with how the shoe would "walk" or more specifically how it would lessen the heel to toe drop. The leather stack heel on a long wing is only as thick as just the rubber ortho top lift itself, so there'd be a significant difference between the usual neocork/ortho walk and a neocork/leather walk. Would it actually matter/cause any problems? I don't know, but probably Alden thinks so. 2nd option is they just don't like the combo for aesthetic reasons.
 

chipshot

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BB #8 Unlined LHS .. pure comfort every time .. been wearing this model in 8 and black plus BB Shell Tassels same color for a very long time.. Those 4 shoes can take you most places in life.. value.. if you can find them anymore..
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PACostag

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If there is any love for this please let me know! I'll be sure to post some reminders for all here

I've got two buyers, need 4 more :)

Lets get this one built!


Brand: Alden
Material: Horween Cordovan Shell
Color: Black
Style: Tanker
Last: Barrie
Outsole: Commando
Welt: 360 Reserve Welt
Eyelets/Hooks: Brass Eyelets Only
 
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