The Official Alden Thread for 2019 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice, and Photos.

[kellte2]

It's all coming together now!

My dreams of a color 8 shortwing with antique edges is falling apart!

I believe Alden of Madison has an upcoming makeup on the plaza last that will be a similar pattern to the 974 (shortwing balmoral). Mahogany edge, so not antique, but lighter than the standard dark brown/black edge on many color 8 makeups.

Example of the edge dressing:

I've got an order in on a short wing on plaza with antique through Madison.

Beat me to the punch. I'm also in on that order. Their recent IG post had me

 

[smfdoc]

Not sure if you ever got an answer to this question, but I think a large part of it is the fact that one is a derby (Dover) while the other a blucher (990). I think the separate quarters help to break up the design more on the derby. Dovers are also unlined in the toe so without the inner lining the exterior appearance of the toe should be slightly slimmer after lasting. Finally, the B+M Dovers have a flat welt vs the split reverse on a 990. I like both but I'm a sucker for unlined shoes so I probably lean more towards Dovers.

This matches my experience. I can wear a 11EEE PTB in shell on Barrie, but the same size and last in an unlined shell dover, was too tight.

 

[woofmang]

Appreciate the detailed answer, especially the distinction between styles; I never saw them side by side, and didn't know enough about shoes to have recognized that distinction until now. I always thought the Dover was a PTB because of the open lacing, but now I see that they're quite different in construction from the 990, and understand the difference between Derbys and Bluchers (I just read a lengthy discussion about those differences on Gentlemen's Gazette). Thanks!

(Must be getting old; I keep talking to myself here... )

Now I don't feel so bad about having thought of my Dovers as PTBs; I just noticed that Brick+Mortar describes them as a "Color 8 Shell Cordovan Unlined Plain Toe Dover Blucher":

https://www.brickmortarseattle.com/lace-shoes/color-8-shell-cordovan-unlined-plain-toe-dover-blucher

 

[schmallo15]

Leathersoul runs one (a few others may too):



In my experience, there are plenty of cobblers who should be able to pull off factory looking antique edges with a resole.

I've been looking for a Barrie lasted shell SWB for a while and unfortunately missed out on the recent LS restock (also had a chance to buy a second hand LS ravello SWB a few years back and passed - kicking myself now). Does anyone else do the short wing blucher on Barrie? The ones I have seen are all on Plaza (Brick & Mortar, Brogue Menlo Park)

 

[M635Guy]

(Must be getting old; I keep talking to myself here... )

Now I don't feel so bad about having thought of my Dovers as PTBs; I just noticed that Brick+Mortar describes them as a "Color 8 Shell Cordovan Unlined Plain Toe Dover Blucher":

https://www.brickmortarseattle.com/lace-shoes/color-8-shell-cordovan-unlined-plain-toe-dover-blucher

Alden (and others) use the terms interchangeably, which annoys the crap out of me.
For myself, I'll always call these a blucher:

(sorry for the non-Alden image - only plain-toe-blucher I have)

Longwings are based on a blucher pattern.

And these a derby (Dover):

 

[audog]

Brogue Cognac Calf NST Boots for a Tuesday evening with friends.

 

[savvysartorial]

I've got an order in on a short wing on plaza with antique through Madison.

You do love plaza don't you??

I just need to find someone to change that welt out cheap... Problem is no cobblers I know have a machine and they all charge a pretty penny to do it by hand which is why Alden doing it would be so good.

 

[ScarsdaleVibe]

 

[madhat]

You do love plaza don't you??

I just need to find someone to change that welt out cheap... Problem is no cobblers I know have a machine and they all charge a pretty penny to do it by hand which is why Alden doing it would be so good.

It seems to work pretty well for me.

So, it's probably more effort for the top of the welt than you want to put in, but you could just sand down the edges and stain them antique/chili. It still looks nice, and would work well since the upper is #8. If the upper was a light color and you had the top of the welt still dark, eh, maybe that's not as optimal. I actually went through the trouble off stripping the coloring of the top of a welt one time. I had some 403s that had a very dark welt rather than the standard natural color. I wanted them to look more like the proper 403, so I took acetone to the top of the welt with a q-tip and pulled the color off. Then, I went and used neutral finish on them. It can be done, just depends how much effort you want to put into it!

 

[madhat]

View attachment 1227265 View attachment 1227266

Those are purdy.

 

[ironclad]

View attachment 1227265 View attachment 1227266

Those are beautiful!

Mine don’t arrive until late tomorrow...

 

[FatTuesday]

Today, #8 LWB's.

with socks by AE.

 

[Joe Schmoe]

Apologies for the really terrible picture, but this is my second pair of Aldens -- natural CXL Indy on Neocork from TSM, pre-ordered (not so) many moons ago becuase they are size EEE. These arrived faster than expected, in about four months. Quality is flawless, fit is perfect -- can't wait to wear them.

 

[BackInTheJox]

Apologies for the really terrible picture, but this is my second pair of Aldens -- natural CXL Indy on Neocork from TSM, pre-ordered (not so) many moons ago becuase they are size EEE. These arrived faster than expected, in about four months. Quality is flawless, fit is perfect -- can't wait to wear them.
View attachment 1227320

I have an obsession both with natty CXL and Indy boots. Which is probably why I have 4 different variations of natty CXL Indys.

Enjoy! They are beauties.

 

[Shawnc]

It seems to work pretty well for me.

I actually went through the trouble off stripping the coloring of the top of a welt one time. I took acetone to the top of the welt with a q-tip and pulled the color off. Then, I went and used neutral finish on them. It can be done, just depends how much effort you want to put into it!

This is seriously impressive @madhat. How difficult was it to remove the coloring from the top of the welt? Did it require multiple passes? I don't mind the effort. Just didn't think you could apply enough pressure to actually remove the coloring.