The Official Alden Thread for 2018 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice, and Photos.

[fourdoggies]

So I bought these boots on Reddit. They are described as oiled nubuck or potentially reverse chamois? Alden DC couldn't pull up the model number, but they said they looked like oiled nubuck.

If so, how the heck do you take care of oiled nubuck? Any thoughts on whether it could be something else?

They were model number 86904 for Leathersoul.

 

[aero25]

So I bought these boots on Reddit. They are described as oiled nubuck or potentially reverse chamois? Alden DC couldn't pull up the model number, but they said they looked like oiled nubuck.

If so, how the heck do you take care of oiled nubuck? Any thoughts on whether it could be something else?

They were model number 86904 for Leathersoul.

View attachment 1089109

I'm no help on care specifics, but I'd guess you'd use more oil! Sorry, I just wanted to post and say those are pretty dang awesome! I think you really scored on those!

 

[fourdoggies]

I'm no help on care specifics, but I'd guess you'd use more oil! Sorry, I just wanted to post and say those are pretty dang awesome! I think you really scored on those!

Yeah, I'm pretty excited. I don't have them yet but saw some of the oiled nubuck at the DC shop and was pretty pumped. They said it's very low maintenance and waterproof and good for bad weather. Already thinking about putting a commando sole on them and just seeing how much they can take.

 

[ReppTiePrepster]

Never had horse meat, but would be willing to try, if it might mean an increase in shell

 

[stevefok]

So I bought these boots on Reddit. They are described as oiled nubuck or potentially reverse chamois? Alden DC couldn't pull up the model number, but they said they looked like oiled nubuck.

If so, how the heck do you take care of oiled nubuck? Any thoughts on whether it could be something else?

They were model number 86904 for Leathersoul.

View attachment 1089109

Lovely boots, looks like this from Leathersoul: https://leathersoul.com/2011/02/14/alden-shoes-the-vintage-jumper-boot-lsw/

They are not reverse chamois, reverse chamois is the suede side of the leather which is much more rough and neppy.

They should be oiled nubuck aka smooth chamois.

 

[darkclassic]

That looks like smooth tobacco chamois AOC-73 is a similar makeup on the AOC site right now.

 

[M635Guy]

So I bought these boots on Reddit. They are described as oiled nubuck or potentially reverse chamois? Alden DC couldn't pull up the model number, but they said they looked like oiled nubuck.

If so, how the heck do you take care of oiled nubuck? Any thoughts on whether it could be something else?

They were model number 86904 for Leathersoul.

View attachment 1089109

It's just chamois, and it's a great and very hardy leather. Basically you brush it just enough to make sure there's grit in the cracks and that's about it for a long, long time.

I emailed Horween about my Leffot chamois LWB's - both Nick and Skip replied, and said the same thing: Wear and enjoy and after a long time a very, very tiny amount of neatsfoot oil is all the care they need in terms of product. Then they both re-emphasized "tiny amount"

 

[johnnymiz]

I have Leffot tankers in that leather. it is very soft. just brush it occasionally with a clean brush and that's it. they don't even really crease. they WILL get slick spots where something rubs them constantly, like if you don't lace all the way up and wrap the laces around... ask me how i know ;-)

 

[audog]

So I bought these boots on Reddit. They are described as oiled nubuck or potentially reverse chamois? Alden DC couldn't pull up the model number, but they said they looked like oiled nubuck.

If so, how the heck do you take care of oiled nubuck? Any thoughts on whether it could be something else?

They were model number 86904 for Leathersoul.

View attachment 1089109

To take care of them, brush them!!! I have a similar pair, although I believe AoC called it chamois and after a lot of wear, a little tiny bit of neatsfoot oil to oil them up. Don't need to use much per boot! (I know, don't ask how)

 

[audog]

It's just chamois, and it's a great and very hardy leather. Basically you brush it just enough to make sure there's grit in the cracks and that's about it for a long, long time.

I emailed Horween about my Leffot chamois LWB's - both Nick and Skip replied, and said the same thing: Wear and enjoy and after a long time a very, very tiny amount of neatsfoot oil is all the care they need in terms of product. Then they both re-emphasized "tiny amount"

Well, should have read further down the thread before I posted my answer! Looks like Nick and Skip say the same thing I did, or rather I said the same thing Horween says. Tiny amount of neatsfoot oil, TINY amount.

 

[savvysartorial]

I love Alden and rarely criticize them but this question has puzzled me since my first introduction to fine footwear. I have heard others say there is a difference (olive/green undertones???). I have cigar, rancourt espresso and AE brown and the differences are imperceptible to most eyes. Seems to me that shell suitable for color 8 would also be suitable for cigar. Given that and the way we all get excited when cigar becomes available would lead me to conclude that it is simply Alden's way of creating demand by treating a basic color as exotic.

That's what I was thinking. It's a shame because cigar is a neat color and would look good on a lot of models. I just wish it wasn't the kind that would take forever and ever to get ahold of a basic stock model, just in cigar!

Nick Horween has confirmed that both Cigar and Ravello are Alden exclusives. I know other makers offer cigar shell cordovan but it doesn't start out as Horween's Cigar. Given that they're Alden exclusives, I imagine they're produced in much lower numbers than Horween's other shell offerings. I'm not sure it necessarily has anything to do with Alden artificially constraining supply or a lack or pristine shells.

For what it's worth, most of my AE brown shell is considerably darker than my Cigar, though I do have one pair of AE brown that's very similar.

I would tend to agree that AE's brown is a bit darker most of the time, but with a bit of brushing and a lighter shell you can have them looking pretty darn close. Just a shame as so many models would look great in cigar but it's extremely limited.

It may be that the names "cigar" and "ravello" are Alden exclusives. But it's clear that they could produce cigar shells in mass quantities if they so desired. Just like other brands can mass produce Birkin bags or Daytonas if they so desired.

Agreed.

Not to beat a dead horse (pun intended) but I took this pic a week ago when I decided to sell my Rancourts. I've heard NH's explanation but again, tough for me, and certainly anyone who is not a regular visitor of this site, to see the difference.......

View attachment 1088953

I have a pair of Park Ave in brown that is almost a dead ringer for my brown tassel as well. I wish they'd share the love on more brown!

I honestly have never looked at cigar shell and thought “wow that is a unique color and so much different and better than other brands Brown shell.” In all honesty I would probably take color 8 over cigar on most models. And yes, I do understand that Alden is constrained by a general limit on number of shoes they can manufacture in a given time.; However, I can think of almost no reasons why they could not manufacture equal amounts of cigar and color 8 models.

I concur!

Cigar has more olive tones in the dye than Dark Cognac (which is what AE calls Brown). Rancourt buys natural shells and dyes them themselves.

Wow they take natural and dye them?? That's a damn shame!! What a way to ruin a perfect shell I am surprised a manufacturer can add dye (or has the knowledge) to add dye to shell once it's been produced by Horween.

Never had horse meat, but would be willing to try, if it might mean an increase in shell

I've thought that exact thing many times before... Anything I can do to help out!!

 

[ScarsdaleVibe]

Navals for the office Xmas party

 

[savvysartorial]

I'd add to this that those other companies don't have a couple dozen (plus) stockists that all have their own models, so what isn't a huge pile of shells to begin with are running through a constrained manufacturing capacity are further divided into small batches of a dozen or two pairs that are often largely or completely pre-sold. If Alden did what AE/Carmina/etc. do and just to a very small number of models and largely sell the through company-direct channels it would probably seem less limited, probably a lot less. That alone would probably have the net effect of reducing demand from China, etc. The other thing is you're talking about two pretty serial production lines (Horween's and Alden's) - the supply of shells good enough to make into Whiskey and Ravello isn't predictable and needs to be a certain amount for Alden to make a run. Once Alden has the material in-hand (or committed anyway), adding it into the schedule is at least a six-month lead-time under good circumstances and three-to-six more if hand-stitching is involved. It just is what it is. Amazon has trained us to think everything can be bought with one click and delivered in a day.

I definitely don't believe Alden is artificially making Ravello/Whiskey rare as a marketing thing...

I certainly don't think Alden is making Ravello/Whiskey rare because I truly believe that lighter shades are harder to come by as it requires pristine shells. No contest there.

I do also agree with what you said about the brown shell and many different makes and model that Alden does through each stockist. That greatly "reduces" the number of shoes we see in any one offering.

The cigar shade could be amped up a bit but it would reduce color 8 and black offerings.

Do they have one dedicated line of personnel to make the uppers for shell only? And then a second, less tenured line to make calf, suede, etc for the less expensive offerings?

 

[johnnymiz]

hey Audog, some nice Orients for you on massdrop today

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/orient...ontent=1544787739959.311216948986137169085024

 

[Misterg12]

Rain gear in NC