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chipshot

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Sport watch, Luminox Navy Seal and Alpine LHS
984371E5-6829-42A0-884A-231D2309CE23.jpeg
4F748CF0-3FCE-4B96-8836-8B7C7D6C413D.jpeg
 

savvysartorial

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Generally shell will fit slightly looser than suede or other leathers since they can't last it quite as tightly.

I've heard that same thing many times and it seems to hold true. What about sizing on calf vs shell then? Wouldn't a calf shoe fit "better" or might glove-like since it can be lasted to a true 11D, 12B, etc whereas shell cannot?
 

sterlingindigo

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I've heard that same thing many times and it seems to hold true. What about sizing on calf vs shell then? Wouldn't a calf shoe fit "better" or might glove-like since it can be lasted to a true 11D, 12B, etc whereas shell cannot?

Generally, Shell is looser than calf. However as I was saying a few pages back that my Barrie lasted Alpine Grain LWB is way more generous than my Barrie lasted shell saddle in the same size. I’ve heard where two same sized, same lasted, same styles can fit appreciably different.

Now, I would think the last would take precedence over style in my case, when it comes to fit. But then again, the expected assumption here is that the same level of force is used across all styles and sizes with regards to materials, and that’s probably not accurate.

When I watch the videos of the lasting process, it looks like a steam machine is forming the material over the last and then the insole and finally the outsole gets stitched on. So my thought is somewhere between lasting and stitching the insole, there’s some slippage happening? There may also be variances if they’re using the same size upper for both 9 and 9.5 for instance. The 9 in that case would have more material to work with.
 

Vocans

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I've heard that same thing many times and it seems to hold true. What about sizing on calf vs shell then? Wouldn't a calf shoe fit "better" or might glove-like since it can be lasted to a true 11D, 12B, etc whereas shell cannot?

I'd say it depends on the person. If your feet are truly exactly an 11D (which is rare), you might get better fit on a calf shoe. Personally, my feet are somewhere between an E and EE and I find that my shell shoes fit slightly better in an E than a similar E calf/suede makeup.

Also worth noting that calf will stretch somewhat whereas shell won't so that can impact the fit as well.
 

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For those who have a suede tanker in Barrie ( @Misterg12 ), does the boot fit any looser or more snug than the Barrie tanker in shell? Thanks very much in advance!
While suede is a bit more snug ofF the bat it will give more than shell and calf. Not enough to size down though. CXL is going to stretch the most.
Shell > Calf > Suede > CXL
 

savvysartorial

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Generally, Shell is looser than calf. However as I was saying a few pages back that my Barrie lasted Alpine Grain LWB is way more generous than my Barrie lasted shell saddle in the same size. I’ve heard where two same sized, same lasted, same styles can fit appreciably different.

Now, I would think the last would take precedence over style in my case, when it comes to fit. But then again, the expected assumption here is that the same level of force is used across all styles and sizes with regards to materials, and that’s probably not accurate.

When I watch the videos of the lasting process, it looks like a steam machine is forming the material over the last and then the insole and finally the outsole gets stitched on. So my thought is somewhere between lasting and stitching the insole, there’s some slippage happening? There may also be variances if they’re using the same size upper for both 9 and 9.5 for instance. The 9 in that case would have more material to work with.

Very cool, thanks! It would be interesting to know if they use the same size upper for different sizes... That would really shock me.

I could see the same last fitting differently in a boot vs blucher but I would certainly hope that a blucher vs blucher or balmoral vs balmoral would be exactly the same!

I'd say it depends on the person. If your feet are truly exactly an 11D (which is rare), you might get better fit on a calf shoe. Personally, my feet are somewhere between an E and EE and I find that my shell shoes fit slightly better in an E than a similar E calf/suede makeup.

Also worth noting that calf will stretch somewhat whereas shell won't so that can impact the fit as well.

My feet measure a solid 11D. Maybe a touch, touch above 11 in length, but 11 is basically spot on. My width is literally dead center D on the brannock device. However, my heel to ball is a 12 though. I find the best fit in the 65 last (AE) in 11D and 11.5C in Aberdeen. I believe I am an 11D Van.

As someone above said, calf will stretch too, so that might cause I bit of a looser fit in the end.
 
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