The New Brooks Brothers

[dieworkwear]

I didn't even know they covered fashion at inaugurations. Sounds wild.

Here's something I've pondered about places like Brooks Brothers, et al.: if they are often forced into sale models as a result of lacking customers, why is it that more expensive retailers never seem to have this problem? @dieworkwear mentioned what is essentially the commoditization of lower-end clothing. I think this can be explained by the fact that places like Brooks Brothers are no longer offering what people (with disposable income) want, and when those same people need the things places like Brooks Brothers are offering, they have little incentive to patronise those stores over others. So they have to compete on price, and their stuff becomes interchangeable.

The issue, then, is that those stores have lost their initial appeal. Chanel and Hermes have so much appeal that they have more knock-offs than actual clothing worn. Perhaps that opportunity to capture people's imagination and desire is fleeting, and once the moment's passed, it never returns.

The same cannot be said for annual sales!

You can't have a luxury-only business with Brooks Brothers' retail footprint.

 

[comrade]

You can't have a luxury-only business with Brooks Brothers' retail footprint.

Before BBs acquisition by Marks and Spencer in the late 80s, BB stores existed
only in the downtowns of major cities. During that time and at least back to the 1960s-
before that I was too young to do my own shopping, sales were only twice/ year.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I didn't even know they covered fashion at inaugurations. Sounds wild.

Here's something I've pondered about places like Brooks Brothers, et al.: if they are often forced into sale models as a result of lacking customers, why is it that more expensive retailers never seem to have this problem? @dieworkwear mentioned what is essentially the commoditization of lower-end clothing. I think this can be explained by the fact that places like Brooks Brothers are no longer offering what people (with disposable income) want, and when those same people need the things places like Brooks Brothers are offering, they have little incentive to patronise those stores over others. So they have to compete on price, and their stuff becomes interchangeable.

The issue, then, is that those stores have lost their initial appeal. Chanel and Hermes have so much appeal that they have more knock-offs than actual clothing worn. Perhaps that opportunity to capture people's imagination and desire is fleeting, and once the moment's passed, it never returns.

The same cannot be said for annual sales!

What more expensive retailers are you referring to?

 

[Norwester]

The Wall Street Journal and New York Times had articles on what was worn, in addition to online fashion blogs. Admittedly most of the focus was on the female contingent. My point was that Brooks Brothers has made a big deal of having an inaugural presence for most all presidents, but got no mention in what I read. It sounds like Biden is a Ralph Lauren fan, both his suits and his overcoat. It is, however, quite possible that Obama showed up in a BB overcoat. Now with BB moving manufacturing out of the US, I doubt we'll see them much at future inaugurations either.

 

[dieworkwear]

The Wall Street Journal and New York Times had articles on what was worn, in addition to online fashion blogs. Admittedly most of the focus was on the female contingent. My point was that Brooks Brothers has made a big deal of having an inaugural presence for most all presidents, but got no mention in what I read. It sounds like Biden is a Ralph Lauren fan, both his suits and his overcoat. It is, however, quite possible that Obama showed up in a BB overcoat. Now with BB moving manufacturing out of the US, I doubt we'll see them much at future inaugurations either.

I think people mix up the history here. Brooks Brothers has dressed 39 of the last 45 presidents (the 46 is still too early, so can't say). Of the 39, only a small handful have worn Brooks to their inauguration, something like five or seven (at least among those confirmed, not all suit makers are known).

I think people misread "Brooks Brothers has dressed 39 of the last 45 Presidents" as "39 of the last 45 Presidents have worn Brooks Brothers to their inauguration."

George W Bush's inauguration suit was made by his tailor in Texas, Gassane Tailors

The Tailors Behind the Tailors Behind the Man (Published 2001)

Custom tailors around nation turn to number of other firms to make suits from measurements they take; contractors include Gilberto Designs, Manhattan company that serves private clients and supplies suits to Pres Bush's tailor; photos (M)

www.nytimes.com

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

I didn't even know they covered fashion at inaugurations. Sounds wild.

Here's something I've pondered about places like Brooks Brothers, et al.: if they are often forced into sale models as a result of lacking customers, why is it that more expensive retailers never seem to have this problem? @dieworkwear mentioned what is essentially the commoditization of lower-end clothing. I think this can be explained by the fact that places like Brooks Brothers are no longer offering what people (with disposable income) want, and when those same people need the things places like Brooks Brothers are offering, they have little incentive to patronise those stores over others. So they have to compete on price, and their stuff becomes interchangeable.

The issue, then, is that those stores have lost their initial appeal. Chanel and Hermes have so much appeal that they have more knock-offs than actual clothing worn. Perhaps that opportunity to capture people's imagination and desire is fleeting, and once the moment's passed, it never returns.

The same cannot be said for annual sales!

BB is not a fashion brand

they sold expensive utilitarian clothes

This association of being standard issue for an upper class subculture was their identity

But then the stuff they sold ceased to be utilitarian

so then it stopped being standard issue

and then the association of being locked in with an upper class aesthetic was severed

so then they were just expensive and out of touch

so then they tried to go down market and pissed off their old customers and only brought in people who wanted deals

tough situation but at root it’s a failure to evolve with the culture

 

[wildcat10]

I don't think suit labels are usually mentioned for anyone except the President. And in this case, it sounds like Biden wore RL.

There were a few articles about the clothing at the inauguration.

Some Ralph Lauren,

The Bidens Wore Sparkles, Suiting, and Sneakers for Inauguration Night

The first family wore Gabriela Hearst, Ralph Lauren, Markarian, Rodarte, and more.

www.harpersbazaar.com

Some very expensive Nikes

There Was An Unexpected Contender For Best Footwear At The Inauguration

Nikolas Ajagu, husband of the new Vice President’s niece, Meena Harris, snagged a rare pair of Dior Air Jordan 1s

www.vogue.co.uk

 

[Nobilis Animus]

You can't have a luxury-only business with Brooks Brothers' retail footprint.

I don't know that it would be necessary to be luxury-based; just having an inventory for which other would be willing to pay would be enough.

What more expensive retailers are you referring to?

Anyone who competes in the same fashion market but has much higher prices and similarly good quality. Brooks Brothers was having problems long before the pandemic.

 

[dieworkwear]

There were a few articles about the clothing at the inauguration.

Some Ralph Lauren,

The Bidens Wore Sparkles, Suiting, and Sneakers for Inauguration Night

The first family wore Gabriela Hearst, Ralph Lauren, Markarian, Rodarte, and more.

www.harpersbazaar.com

Some very expensive Nikes

There Was An Unexpected Contender For Best Footwear At The Inauguration

Nikolas Ajagu, husband of the new Vice President’s niece, Meena Harris, snagged a rare pair of Dior Air Jordan 1s

www.vogue.co.uk

Yes, but men's suitmakers are generally not known.

Women's fashion at these events are generally covered to a much larger degree. And for suitmakers, I've only seen the President's clothes discussed. No one discusses which guests wore what suitmaker.

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't know that it would be necessary to be luxury-based; just having an inventory for which other would be willing to pay would be enough.

My point was that non-luxury goods are being commodified. This is especially true of classic clothing, as those items are more easily compared. Blue shirts, navy suit, cream sweater, black oxfords, etc.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I don't know that it would be necessary to be luxury-based; just having an inventory for which other would be willing to pay would be enough.



Anyone who competes in the same fashion market but has much higher prices and similarly good quality. Brooks Brothers was having problems long before the pandemic.

Plenty of them have pretty constant bigger sales. Paul Stuart and Ralph Lauren come to mind.

 

[FlyingHorker]

The only clothing that stuck out to me was noted by Doctor Damage at AAAC

That's a sharp DB coat.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

My point was that non-luxury goods are being commodified.

Ah, well in that case I agree. Anything more accessible is quickly becoming interchangeable.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Plenty of them have pretty constant bigger sales. Paul Stuart and Ralph Lauren come to mind.

Right, and I think it may be because they still have appeal - enough that if you're on the hunt for that sort of clothing, they still show up on the radar because of x aspect.

Either that or perennially successful companies hire witches and sacrifice to the Profit god. I rather like the idea of a sack-suit mystery cult...

Oh shoot, that's Styleforum.

 

[dieworkwear]

Right, and I think it may be because they still have appeal - enough that if you're on the hunt for that sort of clothing, they still show up on the radar because of x aspect.

Either that or perennially successful companies hire witches and sacrifice to the Profit god. I rather like the idea of a sack-suit mystery cult...

Oh shoot, that's Styleforum.

I think he was saying that BB's problems are not unique, and those other classic clothiers suffer from the same problem.

I can only think of a small handful of classic clothiers, beyond custom clothiers and small boutiques, who aren't having this problem, although Brooks Brothers is among the worst of them. I think it helps to keep the business small so you don't have to move as much volume. Or if you grow big, it has to be a luxury brand like Loro Piana. The middle tier with a big real estate footprint pushes you into that Brooks Brothers problem.