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The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

kevinsvindland

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@kevinsvindland

"In my opinion the undisputed champion of trousermaking."

Is that right?? With all the Ambrosi drainpipes littered all over Instagram??

And could you advise, where exactly is this "Trouser Making Championship" taking place?

Alan Bee

Every year I invite all the trousermakers in the world to my house and host a private event.
 

bdavro23

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Me: "I'm so hungry I could eat a horse."

@Alan Bee: "Is that right Derek! Sir, may I inform you that an adult horse can weigh upwards of two thousand pounds and it would be impossibl-"

"... Thats right Chet, the 2019 Bear Poking Championship really is heating up here on the Ocho, with @dieworkwear surging into the lead. He's really peaking at the right time of the year and clearly is focused on bringing the title home this time..."
 

dieworkwear

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"... Thats right Chet, the 2019 Bear Poking Championship really is heating up here on the Ocho, with @dieworkwear surging into the lead. He's really peaking at the right time of the year and clearly is focused on bringing the title home this time..."

Oh really?? In the lead, is that right? With Derek's shitposting littered all over this forum? Tell me, where is this august and glorious and venerable Bear Poking Championship held?
 

bdavro23

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Oh really?? In the lead, is that right? With Derek's shitposting littered all over this forum? Tell me, where is this august and glorious and venerable Bear Poking Championship held?
I see what you did there...

Image result for clapping gif


Special praise for working "august" into the post.
 

Despos

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I read on Permanent Style that cavalry twill trousers should always be cut with a flat front and no cuffs - do you have views on that?
Wrong. Pleats are fine. Cuffs if you like them and the cloth isn't too heavy and makes bulky, thick cuffs.
Would say making a twill suit is more egregious than a pleated twill trouser. Twill can come off as cloth for a uniform. Uniforms for the post office were heavy twills at one time. Not sure if twills are still used at present.
Have made and liked a very neutral British tan calvary twill as a DB suit. It looked great so there are exceptions
 

usctrojans31

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"... Thats right Chet, the 2019 Bear Poking Championship really is heating up here on the Ocho, with @dieworkwear surging into the lead. He's really peaking at the right time of the year and clearly is focused on bringing the title home this time..."

Sure do love pumpkins, Cotton.
 

Alan Bee

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Wrong. Pleats are fine. Cuffs if you like them and the cloth isn't too heavy and makes bulky, thick cuffs.
Would say making a twill suit is more egregious than a pleated twill trouser. Twill can come off as cloth for a uniform. Uniforms for the post office were heavy twills at one time. Not sure if twills are still used at present.
Have made and liked a very neutral British tan calvary twill as a DB suit. It looked great so there are exceptions

@Despos

I am not going to get into a bar brawl with an esteemed tailor but I did a lot of research before commissioning my Cavalry trousers.

My understanding is they have their heritage in equestrian military roots. And those trousers were cut flat front with a military hem (slanted uncuffed).

Now, I don’t think anyone is going to get arrested for going with pleats but if we’re are speaking strictly tradition, my research suggests they are meant to be plain front without cuffs.

I had mine done plain front (and this is from a man who has pleats on all his trousers) with cuffs only because they were cut very full and in my eyes look better with cuffs.

Alan Bee

0EAFBB56-3647-491A-B825-AF958E66268F.jpeg
3AC1CFF8-27C8-47D2-8539-4761C0FB6CE0.jpeg
 

Despos

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I respect when someone appreciates authenticity to the original intent. If everyone wanted an authentic Polo Coat it would be a wrap coat with slash pockets. Buttons/framed pockets were adapted as everyday wear for the masses.
Just saying I would not avoid pleats on twill cloth if you wanted them. Your plain fronts are fine but I hear them shouting for pleats to balance with the fuller leg.
Always interested for sources of information if you want to share your research resources.
 

Rugger

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If I were to be looking for online MTM trousers at a reasonable price, where would I start?
 

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