The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

[kevinsvindland]

My first MTM trousers.

I think they turned out really well.

Any feedback very welcome.

View attachment 1122128 View attachment 1122129

Looks good for a first time MTM.

There seems to be a little tension on the side pockets, so I would change that on the pattern for your next order.
They should lay flat.
Would be careful about letting it out in the seat, as it seems from this photo that the it is the front that may need a little more fabric.

 

[dieworkwear]

Will be the dissenting view and say I don't think those MTMs look any better than your usual RTW.

The seat and hips area look like they could be let out. The pockets are flaring out. And the back of your trousers don't hang very well. IME, you can solve this by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch seam.

 

[eightace]

Thanks for the feedback gents.

 

[shirtsnob]

Wouldn’t Calvary Twill wool wear hot? Real bespoke trouser at NYC is all at least $1k, maybe i’ll get better luck when I fly back to Asia next time

1K?.


you can get waaay cheaper.....

 

[jayvee]

I need some well fitting, heavy weight smart casual trousers for winter. I am thinking about something like a heavy tweed in a chino style. Does such a thing exist? Or other suitable fabrics and makers , preferably in the EU.

 

[GBR]

I need some well fitting, heavy weight smart casual trousers for winter. I am thinking about something like a heavy tweed in a chino style. Does such a thing exist? Or other suitable fabrics and makers , preferably in the EU.

Doubtful, RTW chinos tend to follow their traditional cotton style and those who wear tweeds would probably not wear Chinos or certainly not a hybrid as you describe. MTM might be your best bet rather than traipse round shops or websites and being disappointed.

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

I need some well fitting, heavy weight smart casual trousers for winter. I am thinking about something like a heavy tweed in a chino style. Does such a thing exist? Or other suitable fabrics and makers , preferably in the EU.

Cordings have a decent selection if you like their fit. Higher than average rise and quite trim down the leg.

 

[eightace]

2nd attempt at MTM.

Same maker as the grey trousers on the previous page, but more room in seat and thighs.

 

[Texasmade]

Top photo reminds me of Nacho Libre.

 

[dauster]

Lighter blue ones are bespoke from richard anderson and the other ones are MTM (part of the a suit). cross post from another thread - I believe ongoing bespoke projects.

 

[kevinsvindland]

One of our customers shot this portrait of Salvatore Ambrosi. In my opinion the undisputed champion of trousermaking.

 

[Fraussie]

I've been busy with other things but I'm now back at building my wardrobe. Luxire has just had a great Black Friday sale and I've picked up a number of great fabrics. I now need to think of how I am going to style the trousers.

• Brown high twist wool trousers - VBC 4 Ply
• Stone covert/cavalry twill wool trousers - VBC 15 oz
• Ecru flannel trousers - EThomas 15 Oz
• Tobacco Brown flannel trousers - EThomas 15 Oz
• Black/grey houndstooth wool trousers - Dugdale 14oz
• Ecru hopsack linen trousers - 13 oz

I read on Permanent Style that cavalry twill trousers should always be cut with a flat front and no cuffs - do you have views on that?

Thinking of trying double forward pleats for one of the flannel pants but I'm worried it would be a bit too "out there". My workplace is not super conservative but I don't really want to stand out too much. What do you guys reckon?

 

[mosivy]

@Fraussie I like your selection of fabrics!

I generally do the same thing for all my trousers: single reverse deep pleat, 2 inch cuffs, side adjusters, mid/high rise.

For pants that are slightly more "casual," like the cavalry twill, I can see why you would consider flat-front. I think that pleats are largely personal taste (unless you need them) and you should get them if you want them!

I don't own any forward pleats or any double bleats. I think it can definitely look good, but I would probably try it on a worsted before a flannel, since it seems dressy.

 

[Alan Bee]

One of our customers shot this portrait of Salvatore Ambrosi. In my opinion the undisputed champion of trousermaking.

View attachment 1274977

@kevinsvindland

"In my opinion the undisputed champion of trousermaking."

Is that right?? With all the Ambrosi drainpipes littered all over Instagram??

And could you advise, where exactly is this "Trouser Making Championship" taking place?

Alan Bee

 

[dieworkwear]

I read on Permanent Style that cavalry twill trousers should always be cut with a flat front and no cuffs - do you have views on that?

I have cav twill trousers with single reverse pleats and cuffs. Not sure why cav twill shouldn't have cuffs since it's a country fabric anyway. Pleats seem like a personal preference. I generally like pleats nowadays on "traditional" trousers because, on a pair of higher rise trousers, they help visually break up the space around the lap. But plenty of guys look great in flat fronts too, assuming there aren't any fit issues.