The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

[The J]

Not too sure where @Fraussie is from but coming from Singapore, the weather honestly does not permit a jacket. It's just too damn humid... Also being the only employee wearing a jacket takes a lot of bravery, in the social aspect at least. However, I completely agree with you that wool trousers tend to look a bit out of a place without a jacket. I sincerely believe a good ramification to this would be to use a slightly textured cloth or a linen/cotton wool blend.

Fair enough! A fair insight into things as many of us here wouldn't have known as its pretty common to wear jackets here. But totally agree re: the textured cloth. Stay away from worsteds and you shall be okay.

 

[Fraussie]

@Fraussie I personally think your trousers fit quite well. The left leg seems to have a straight flow at the back while half breaking at the front. It's a little hard to tell from the photos but your right leg may be a little shorter than your left, which may be why the front isn't as clean as compared to the left.

You may also benefit from a slightly longer rise to ease up the crotch area just a tiny bit and a single pleat to create a more linear visual image.

Thank you - you're spot on. I do actually have a leg shorter than the other!

 

[Fraussie]

I've recently started building my trousers wardrobe. In addition to the light grey Fresco trousers, I got a pair of:
- mid-grey VBC flannel (350g) with one reverse pleat, cuffs, side tabs
- tobacco W Bill linen (380g) with one reverse pleat, no cuffs, side tabs

My wife keeps giving me crap about the style of my pants - I don't know if it's something to do with how high I wear them or the pleats etc. I'm 178cm tall and 74kg - slim but reasonably athletic. I wear my pants at or just below my navel. Is that too high for odd trousers?

What style/cut do you guys usually chose for odd trousers?

 

[Fonz4]

I've recently started building my trousers wardrobe. In addition to the light grey Fresco trousers, I got a pair of:
- mid-grey VBC flannel (350g) with one reverse pleat, cuffs, side tabs
- tobacco W Bill linen (380g) with one reverse pleat, no cuffs, side tabs

My wife keeps giving me crap about the style of my pants - I don't know if it's something to do with how high I wear them or the pleats etc. I'm 178cm tall and 74kg - slim but reasonably athletic. I wear my pants at or just below my navel. Is that too high for odd trousers?

What style/cut do you guys usually chose for odd trousers?

My odd trousers are often with cuffs.
I agree on the waist height: 1cm below the navel! And 2 great choices for the new plans. Cavalry Twill is a great alternative too in odd trousers.

 

[Fraussie]

My odd trousers are often with cuffs.
I agree on the waist height: 1cm below the navel! And 2 great choices for the new plans. Cavalry Twill is a great alternative too in odd trousers.

I've been meaning to get a pair of cavalry twill trousers but can't find a good fabric. I heard that H&S had some good cavalry twill in their Dakota book but haven't been able to find some in Singapore. My tailor doesn't have it. The local H&S agent told me it's been discontinued and when I asked if he had any alternative, he had no idea (apparently cavalry twill is not very popular is South East Asia...). I'm not giving up though.

Next on my list is a heavyweight linen trousers - one pair in cream and one in green. Also want to get more flannel - fawn/oatmeal would be great.

 

[Texasmade]

My wife keeps giving me crap about the style of my pants - I don't know if it's something to do with how high I wear them or the pleats etc. I'm 178cm tall and 74kg - slim but reasonably athletic. I wear my pants at or just below my navel. Is that too high for odd trousers?

I wear jeans and khaki pants at the hips. Trousers are always right below the navel. It looks sloppy if they’re worn at the hips.

 

[ZaneLim]

I've recently started building my trousers wardrobe. In addition to the light grey Fresco trousers, I got a pair of:
- mid-grey VBC flannel (350g) with one reverse pleat, cuffs, side tabs
- tobacco W Bill linen (380g) with one reverse pleat, no cuffs, side tabs

My wife keeps giving me crap about the style of my pants - I don't know if it's something to do with how high I wear them or the pleats etc. I'm 178cm tall and 74kg - slim but reasonably athletic. I wear my pants at or just below my navel. Is that too high for odd trousers?

What style/cut do you guys usually chose for odd trousers?

I don't know your fabric code for the VBC flannel but I sincerely believe that its the same one I have, which I think you will find yourself reaching for a lot! It goes well with literally everything, including the gun club check sport coat. The fabric feels like pyjamas and retains its shape exceedingly well. You wouldn't be disappointed with the cuff and pleat feature.

As for the trousers, it just takes a while for you and the people around you to get accustomed to it. I ONLY wear odd trousers these days and they are all cut to fit right at my belly button. The only type of garment that I wouldn't wear so high on my waist would be a pant without a centre crease (chinos, jeans etc.)

For the W.Bill Tobacco, I actually think it will look better with a pleat and cuff. The fabric is quite robust so the cuff will hold its shape really well. Hopefully these links will give you a better visual representation. (Pleat and cuff)

Also, from experience, I feel a denser cream cotton trousers will look better than a linen. I had one made and I wear it substantially more than my cream linen. The natural wrinkling on linen can make the cream look a little sloppy in my opinion. But fawn and oatmeal flannel sounds very exciting, can't wait to see you make them up!

 

[clee1982]

Wouldn’t Calvary Twill wool wear hot? Real bespoke trouser at NYC is all at least $1k, maybe i’ll get better luck when I fly back to Asia next time

 

[Fraussie]

Any experience with cavalry twill for trousers?

 

[emptym]

Cavalry twill is an excellent material for pants -- the warmth of flannels but less soft and more sturdy. I couldn't imagine wearing either above about 60 degrees F, though.

If I lived in SE Asia, which I have, I'd mostly get fresco, tropical wool, linen, linen blends, seersucker, pincord, and maybe poplin. Really, anything light and porous would be good. (Poplin isn't so porous, hence the "maybe.") I'd also be very happy with poly blends (wool/poly, cotton/poly, etc) that are machine washable. My favorite hot weather pants are wool/linen blends, but they're rare.

Imo, it's totally fine to wear non-patterned wool pants w/o a jacket. And fine, even preferable in hot weather, to have just one rear pocket. In terms of fit, the pants in the OP look good to me, but I'd be a bit concerned about the whiskering at the crotch in the front. As someone mentioned, a slightly longer front rise might help with that. Or more of a U shape than a V.

 

[shirtsnob]

Thanks for the input guys. Have gone back to my tailor to get the seat lined, add a button on the back pocket (can't get a pocket added on the left side ) and tighten up the fit on the seat.

Will definitely start wearing a jacket too - I've a got nice blue Dormeuil cloth waiting to be made up (wool/linen/silk blend).

just saw this thread,...

those fit very very well overall......I like!

perfect in front , and rear is not that off .....at all

 

[eightace]

My first MTM trousers.

I think they turned out really well.

Any feedback very welcome.

 

[beargonefishing]

My first MTM trousers.

I think they turned out really well.

Any feedback very welcome.

View attachment 1122128 View attachment 1122129

They look to tight in hips and seat.

 

[bdavro23]

They look to tight in hips and but.

I second this. Let out the seat and crotch.

 

[ahtynes]

Agree, but still very good for a MTM first pass.