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The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Fraussie, Feb 5, 2018.

  1. Fraussie

    Fraussie Senior Member

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    Hi all

    After having browsed through this forum quite a bit I've realised that we don't talk enough about trousers. I live in a tropical region and, sadly, people tend to avoid wearing a jacket or a suit. This means that for those of us that are sartorialy inclined, we tend to focus a lot on trousers. While there is a lot of information about tailored trousers scattered across this forum, I though it would be useful to have everything MTM and bespoke trousers related gathered in one thread. Hope this gets some traction!

    Please feel free to share photos of your favourite trousers etc!
     

  2. Fraussie

    Fraussie Senior Member

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    I'll start the conversation by asking for some advice. I've recently commissioned a pair of light grey Fresco trousers (Minnis Fresco III 9/10 oz #510248) - see photos attached. While I'm satisfied with the fabric and the workmanship, they don't seem to fit quite right and I'm not sure how to get them fixed - would love some feedback from those of you that are more experienced

    One thing I know needs to be fixed is the lining... Perhaps a bit of a rookie mistake but the trousers are only lined on the front all the way to the knees. It's enough to avoid the scratchy feeling on the front of my thighs but it is still uncomfortable on the back. It also means that you can see the colour of my underwear and shirt on the seat area...

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  3. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior Member

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    I sense a large purchase of grey underwear is imminent...
     

  4. GBR

    GBR Distinguished Member

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    Only one back pocket without a button - scruffy. Two with buttons or none is far better.
     

  5. TheTukker

    TheTukker Distinguished Member

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    But those stylistic details are pretty subjective of course.
     

  6. GBR

    GBR Distinguished Member

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    Agree but this pair look scruffy as executed.
     

  7. The J

    The J Senior Member

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    Wear a jacket. Personally I think wool trousers without a jacket looks odd and out of place. Maybe a safari linen jacket if your environment is a tad more casual and tropical? I have a pair of fresco and a pair of dugsdale NFW trousers - both I'd never wear without a jacket.

    IMG_6700.JPG
     

  8. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

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    Well, I kind of agree with @The J.

    Although I don't live in a tropical region, from April onwards the weather is warming up fastly and by summer months you cannot wear an SC unless indoors in an A/C environment.

    However, yes, wool trousers cannot be worn on their own, you have to have a SC somewhere nearby; and this can be for instance a Wool/Silk/Linen mix, or a hopsack summer wool.

    What you can use IMHO is lightweight cotton, linen, or even linen mix as odd trousers, separated from an SC.

    Cheers,

    Dimitris
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018

  9. brax

    brax Distinguished Member

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    I line all of my wool pants to the knees in the front but never line the frescos. It kind of defeats the purpose of a fresco. The fresco weave encourages circulation and lining them renders that advantage moot. Either wear them unlined or, if the scratchiness bothers you, go with a more refined summer suiting, e.g., Crispaire.
     

  10. Fraussie

    Fraussie Senior Member

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    Thanks for the input guys. Have gone back to my tailor to get the seat lined, add a button on the back pocket (can't get a pocket added on the left side :() and tighten up the fit on the seat.

    Will definitely start wearing a jacket too - I've a got nice blue Dormeuil cloth waiting to be made up (wool/linen/silk blend).
     

  11. Fraussie

    Fraussie Senior Member

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    To keep the conversation going - what are your favourite trousers? Please post photos and details of the fabric!
     

  12. Texasmade

    Texasmade Distinguished Member

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    My preferred trousers are Brooks Brothers Madison fit flat front trousers. No pictures of them.
     

  13. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

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    Dear @Fraussie,

    Yes, you can add a pocket on the left side; actually, as we speak, I have a pair of trousers (part of a Bespoke Zegna summer suit) that originally had no back pockets at all - my taste of the time - in my tailor's and he is making them.

    Certainly, I had some extra fabric saved and this allowed this small modification, because it was from the then Anteprima (seasonal) SS collection which is always one-off!

    Best,

    Dimitris
     

  14. Zanification

    Zanification Well-Known Member

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    Not too sure where @Fraussie is from but coming from Singapore, the weather honestly does not permit a jacket. It's just too damn humid... Also being the only employee wearing a jacket takes a lot of bravery, in the social aspect at least. However, I completely agree with you that wool trousers tend to look a bit out of a place without a jacket. I sincerely believe a good ramification to this would be to use a slightly textured cloth or a linen/cotton wool blend.
     

  15. Zanification

    Zanification Well-Known Member

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    @Fraussie I personally think your trousers fit quite well. The left leg seems to have a straight flow at the back while half breaking at the front. It's a little hard to tell from the photos but your right leg may be a little shorter than your left, which may be why the front isn't as clean as compared to the left.

    You may also benefit from a slightly longer rise to ease up the crotch area just a tiny bit and a single pleat to create a more linear visual image.
     

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