"The Making of a Coat" with Rory Duffy (VIDEOS)

[poorsod]

Ermezine was the name he used.

 

[Montauk]

I think ermazine is the word you're looking for. It's an artificial silk made from wood cellulose that's more durable (and more breathable) than silk. Rory says he lines overcoats in twill, by which he means a sturdy, heavier-weight diagonal weave lining (as opposed to lighter linings, which are generally plain weave). It's the stuff we're using for my sportcoat.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

I continue to immensely enjoy the new videos every Friday. Thanks again for the effort of making them.

 

[Rory Duffy]

Dear Style Forum Members,

In order to properly celebrate the release of the video series I thought it might be fun to invite you over to my Williamsburg studio for an 'after party' next Saturday November 16th. I am looking forward to meeting you all in person at the up and coming "Style Forum Trunk show".
To help mark the release of the series I will be doing a live demonstration of some of the techniques that you've seen in the videos and will do a final fitting on an example of my work with a client who has commission a suit from me.
One luck attendee will have the opportunity to be measured for a jacket draft which they can take away at the end of the evening and I'll raffle off a pair of winter trousers from my sample collection.

Numbers are limited. There will be a grill on the rooftop for hot dogs, a dubious amount of alcohol and hopefully something educational and fun.

If you think this is something you'd definitely like to attend then please send me a PM with your name, email and contact number. I can only accommodate 20 people so even if it's overbooked I can easily create a back-up list - on the other hand, I need a minimum attendance of 10 to make it worthwhile.

Let me know and I'd love to make it happen.

KInd regards,

Rory Duffy
Handcraft Tailor

[email protected]

 

[Montauk]

I'll be with Rory both at the Styleforum Trunk Show on Saturday and the afterparty in Williamsburg. Looking forward to meeting some of you.

In the meantime, here's what's gone live so far of the "Making of a Coat" series on A Suitable Wardobe. I’m pleased to report that Jeffery Diduch has seen fit to cross-post them to his excellent blog Made By Hand.

Episode #1: Introduction
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-making-of-coat.html

Epsiode #2: Dratfting the Pattern
(In production)

Epsiode #3: Striking the Pattern
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/striking-pattern.html

Epsiode #4: Cutting the Canvas & Lining
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-elements-of-structure.html

Episode #5: Crookening & Markstitiching
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/11/video-crookening-and-markstitching.html

Episode #6: Making Patch Pockets
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/11/video-man-vs-machine.html

New episodes are posted every Friday on ASW

AY

 

[lordsuperb]

What happened to the series?

 

[chinesealpha]

http://vimeo.com/andrewyamato

 

[lordsuperb]

Where is the final end product?

 

[Montauk]

We'll be back up with new episodes next month. Just had to take a break for another project.

 

[Rory Duffy]

Would like to thank Andrew for all his hard work on this video series to date and making it possible. A lot of time and effort has gone into its production. Believe me, I have the easy job, we have recorded days of footage which Montauk has to go back over and edit, no small task. At this stage it's anyones guess how many episodes there is going to be. We haven't even put a dent into "The Making of a Coat'. We are as disappointed as our viewers to have to stall the edits at this stage but we all have to earn a living and Montauk has given up so much of his free time already to make this series happen. In the meantime, please check out my promo video and let me know what you think.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

Great videos, i look forward to seeing more of them in the future...

 

[lordsuperb]

Nice video series, I'm sure you'll have a nice client base once the series is complete.

 

[Rory Duffy]

Montauk has out done himself again. Another round of videos will be going online over the next few weeks. #14 was posted on Friday here's a link
http://asuitablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/02/video-little-mythbusting.html?m=1

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

Great videos (as usual), and Interesting comments about the lack of difference in Italian and British construction.

I wish I had experience to contribute, but I too was under the impression that Italian (specifically Neapolitan) construction was considerably lighter and more breathable. Would love to hear more

 

[Rory Duffy]

Can only speak of my own experiences, having met with an Italian tailor who like many maintained that their suits were lighter and softer. Then showed me the canvas, which was almost identical to my own. He also made out that Savile row suits are like armour and could stand up in the corner.
Maybe at one time but not anymore.