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"The Making of a Coat" with Rory Duffy (VIDEOS)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montauk, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    Earlier this year, I announced the production of a new series of web videos featuring the step-by-step making of a sportcoat by Rory Duffy--a NYC-based master tailor who in 2009 won the Golden Shears Award in London while an apprentice at Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row. I’d met Duffy last December at a Christmas party, where we immediately bonded over our shared interest in tailoring, and our common vision of producing a web series which would convey in detail the hows and whys of Savile Row bespoke techniques and traditions. We realized we were in a perfect position to assist each other; Rory had found a means to demonstrate his expertise before a growing demographic of online bespoke enthusiasts (and potential clients), and I had found a worthy subject through which to further establish myself as a sartorially-savvy filmmaker (I have previously produced videos for A Suitable Wardrobe and Put This On.) We're pleased to announce that the series--”The Making of a Coat”--will be premiered on A Suitable Wardrobe later this month (as soon as Will returns from his Mediterranean holiday), but since we know that some folks have been patiently waiting here since the spring, we’re giving Styleforum a sneak preview of a couple episodes. We hope you will find something fresh and interesting in these videos, and especially as this is an ongoing series, we welcome your feedback. AY
    The Making of a Coat #1 - Introduction from Andrew Yamato on Vimeo.
    The Making of a Coat #11 - Padding The Chest from Andrew Yamato on Vimeo.
    [VIDEO][/VIDEO] [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
    8 people like this.
  2. chinesealpha

    chinesealpha Senior member

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  3. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Senior member

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  4. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    As a bit of a critic in your other post (though hardly the worst of the bunch), I must say that this is really great work, much appreciated. Can't wait for the rest.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  5. uniesse

    uniesse Senior member

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    Fucking excellent work.
     
  6. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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  7. BAO1

    BAO1 Member

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    Great capture of Rory's skill and passion. I'd never seen him sew but you can see the muscle memory at work. Just makes it harder to wait for my next fittings!

    Bring on the rest!
     
  8. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Great bit of insight and a valuable record of how and why this tailor works, there is very little video of tailoring out there.
     
  9. Jonny Foy

    Jonny Foy Member

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    Yes, please rush order the remaining videos
     
  10. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    2 people like this.
  11. chinesealpha

    chinesealpha Senior member

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    Montauk, these videos are amazing. I can't wait to see the rest.
     
  12. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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  13. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    These are terrific videos indeed.

    That fabric did Rory say he used for his jackets?
     
  14. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    Thanks for kind words from everyone. These videos are a pleasure to make, and I'm glad they're finding an enthusiastic audience here.

    Not sure what you're asking, JubeiSpeigel. The cloth for my jacket in the videos is an 11oz 100% wool flannel from Ariston Napoli. It's lined in a heavyweight ermazine twill comissioned by the RAF to line their service uniforms.

    Like any bespoke tailor, of course, Rory has dozens of books to choose from.

    AY
     
  15. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I mean the lining. Rory mentions for heavy coats he likes using a tweed lining, but for his normal jackets he uses a silk like lining, i could not make out the material he mentions it is. That was my question...
     
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Ermezine was the name he used.
     
  17. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    I think ermazine is the word you're looking for. It's an artificial silk made from wood cellulose that's more durable (and more breathable) than silk. Rory says he lines overcoats in twill, by which he means a sturdy, heavier-weight diagonal weave lining (as opposed to lighter linings, which are generally plain weave). It's the stuff we're using for my sportcoat.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2013
  18. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I continue to immensely enjoy the new videos every Friday. Thanks again for the effort of making them.
     
  19. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Dear Style Forum Members,

    In order to properly celebrate the release of the video series I thought it might be fun to invite you over to my Williamsburg studio for an 'after party' next Saturday November 16th. I am looking forward to meeting you all in person at the up and coming "Style Forum Trunk show".
    To help mark the release of the series I will be doing a live demonstration of some of the techniques that you've seen in the videos and will do a final fitting on an example of my work with a client who has commission a suit from me.
    One luck attendee will have the opportunity to be measured for a jacket draft which they can take away at the end of the evening and I'll raffle off a pair of winter trousers from my sample collection.

    Numbers are limited. There will be a grill on the rooftop for hot dogs, a dubious amount of alcohol and hopefully something educational and fun.

    If you think this is something you'd definitely like to attend then please send me a PM with your name, email and contact number. I can only accommodate 20 people so even if it's overbooked I can easily create a back-up list - on the other hand, I need a minimum attendance of 10 to make it worthwhile.

    Let me know and I'd love to make it happen.

    KInd regards,

    Rory Duffy
    Handcraft Tailor

    Rory@Handcrafttailor.com
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
  20. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    I'll be with Rory both at the Styleforum Trunk Show on Saturday and the afterparty in Williamsburg. Looking forward to meeting some of you.

    In the meantime, here's what's gone live so far of the "Making of a Coat" series on A Suitable Wardobe. I’m pleased to report that Jeffery Diduch has seen fit to cross-post them to his excellent blog Made By Hand.

    Episode #1: Introduction
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-making-of-coat.html

    Epsiode #2: Dratfting the Pattern
    (In production)

    Epsiode #3: Striking the Pattern
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/striking-pattern.html

    Epsiode #4: Cutting the Canvas & Lining
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-elements-of-structure.html

    Episode #5: Crookening & Markstitiching
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/11/video-crookening-and-markstitching.html

    Episode #6: Making Patch Pockets
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/11/video-man-vs-machine.html

    New episodes are posted every Friday on ASW

    AY
     

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