The Made-to-Measure Thread

[hpreston]

I’ve had my eye on this fabric for a while but haven’t worn a suit in over a year!!!

Understand your predicament. I am in the office five days a week (Government), so I am usually in suit or sport coat, and tie. Therefor, my long term plan to fill out the suit wardrobe is still on track.

Curious as to why you went Rota v. RingJacket for the trousers?

As I said, it is a bit of an experiment. I have a few suits from RJ, so I wanted to branch out a little, and mix things up a bit.

One of the guys did a similar suit with RJ jacket, Rota trousers, and it came out very nice. Also, having a few pairs of Rota, I am well aware of their quality.

How good is the Armoury’s MTM program for ring jacket? Do they adjust for issues like uneven shoulders well?

I think it depends on how severe the difference is, there is only so much you can do MTM. I don't have much of a shoulder issue, so i cant speak directly. my issues are more about my dad bod (add in a couple CM in the midsection of the jacket, and waist of trou), and being shorter than an OTR Regular, but taller than an OTR Short which requires shortening the jacket a couple CM.

(Damn, as I write that, I am basically saying I am short, and fat......)

However, a friend got an MTM Ring jacket (at the Armoury), and he has pretty pronounced dropped shoulder, his suit looks very good to my eye.

 

[Despos]

Understand your predicament. I am in the office five days a week (Government), so I am usually in suit or sport coat, and tie. Therefor, my long term plan to fill out the suit wardrobe is still on track.



As I said, it is a bit of an experiment. I have a few suits from RJ, so I wanted to branch out a little, and mix things up a bit.

One of the guys did a similar suit with RJ jacket, Rota trousers, and it came out very nice. Also, having a few pairs of Rota, I am well aware of their quality.



I think it depends on how severe the difference is, there is only so much you can do MTM. I don't have much of a shoulder issue, so i cant speak directly. my issues are more about my dad bod (add in a couple CM in the midsection of the jacket, and waist of trou), and being shorter than an OTR Regular, but taller than an OTR Short which requires shortening the jacket a couple CM.

(Damn, as I write that, I am basically saying I am short, and fat......)

However, a friend got an MTM Ring jacket (at the Armoury), and he has pretty pronounced dropped shoulder, his suit looks very good to my eye.

Who is ordering the cloth? Want to make sure both pieces are cut from the same bolt of cloth. May seem unlikely to not be from the same piece but it happens. More likely if they receive two separate orders, one from RJ and another from Rota.
It's happened to me so just a heads up

 

[hpreston]

Who is ordering the cloth? Want to make sure both pieces are cut from the same bolt of cloth. May seem unlikely to not be from the same piece but it happens. More likely if they receive two separate orders, one from RJ and another from Rota.
It's happened to me so just a heads up

Yes. This is reasonable. The gents at the Armoury will order a “suit” length of cloth from Fox, then have it split and sent to RJ from there.

 

[classicalthunde]

Not quite sure if this is the proper thread for this (if there is a better one, let me know and I'll relocate it there), but since its a MTM item I'll put my inquiry here

Last January (pre-pandemic) I ordered a MTM shirt, it arrived after lockdown and went in the closet. I wound up wearing it for a couple of important zoom meetings in the summer, sent it to the dry cleaner and then put it back in the closet. I wound up taking it out recently and noticed this bubble on the collar

So, I'm curious if this is a construction issue to bring up with the maker or a dry cleaning issue to bring up with my cleaners? I'm not an expert, but it reminds me of a fusing bubble...

I just use a run of the mill dry cleaning place, most of my shirts are normal OTR Brooks Brothers and I've never had anything similar happen with any of them. All in all pretty bummed at the cost per usage of this item.

 

[hpreston]

That looks like the fused interlining has become unfused and bubbled during cleaning.

Unless the maker is very lenient on remakes/returns, they will probably point to you towards the cleansers. The cleaners will likely point to manufacturer, which leaves you stuck with a shirt with a bubbled collar. Hopefully one will take responsibility.

 

[classicalthunde]

That looks like the fused interlining has become unfused and bubbled during cleaning.

Unless the maker is very lenient on remakes/returns, they will probably point to you towards the cleansers. The cleaners will likely point to manufacturer, which leaves you stuck with a shirt with a bubbled collar. Hopefully one will take responsibility.

That's kind of what i figured that I'd be stuck somewhere in the middle

My only issue is I'm fairly certain that I ordered the shirt with non-fused collar and cuffs since this was my first custom shirt and I wanted to try the feature out...

 

[hpreston]

That's kind of what i figured that I'd be stuck somewhere in the middle

My only issue is I'm fairly certain that I ordered the shirt with non-fused collar and cuffs since this was my first custom shirt and I wanted to try the feature out...

If that is the case, then the maker should definitely remake, since you have visual proof they did not construct per your order.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Not quite sure if this is the proper thread for this (if there is a better one, let me know and I'll relocate it there), but since its a MTM item I'll put my inquiry here

Last January (pre-pandemic) I ordered a MTM shirt, it arrived after lockdown and went in the closet. I wound up wearing it for a couple of important zoom meetings in the summer, sent it to the dry cleaner and then put it back in the closet. I wound up taking it out recently and noticed this bubble on the collar

View attachment 1572714

So, I'm curious if this is a construction issue to bring up with the maker or a dry cleaning issue to bring up with my cleaners? I'm not an expert, but it reminds me of a fusing bubble...

I just use a run of the mill dry cleaning place, most of my shirts are normal OTR Brooks Brothers and I've never had anything similar happen with any of them. All in all pretty bummed at the cost per usage of this item.

This has happened to me with a Spier and Mackay MTM shirt that I laundered normally so may not have anything to do with dry cleaning.
Mine was a regular fused collar btw.

 

[Garcia]

New linen suit.

 

[Jazzthief]

One more thing, however. What is their price range? It is pretty obvious that it can go quite high as they produce some of the best fabrics, but what would be the starting and 'mid-range' point?

Quite epic necromancy, but as there is not a decicated Scabal thread, I have no better place to ask, I think. Does anyone know what is the pricing range of Scabal MTM for suits (and shirts)? Starting point and mid-range.

 

[classicalthunde]

Swung by The Armoury last week to place my first big menswear purchase since lockdown - a Orazio Luciano MTM tweed sport coat in a grey herringbone Harris Tweed to try and come close to the one in this Vox pic below

Back when I visited in September, the OL jacket fit me the best out of all the fitting garments so between the stylistic goal (Neapolitan w/ a few ivy details) and fit it was a pretty easy decision.

The process different than my Hemrajani experience in that there were really no body measurements, it was all just tweaks based off of the fitting garment. They pinned a few things and made a few chalk markings on the garment, which I believe will also be sent over to the factory in Naples as a reference along with a number of pictures. The most notable changes from the fitting garment were adjusting for my drop shoulder, a lower buttoning point, and a lower gorge from the OL standard that should be more along the lines of the Model 3

They said the garment should arrive in 4-6 weeks and that they will do any necessary alterations tailoring and the functional cuffs in NYC

 

[hpreston]

Swung by The Armoury last week to place my first big menswear purchase since lockdown - a Orazio Luciano MTM tweed sport coat in a grey herringbone Harris Tweed to try and come close to the one in this Vox pic below

View attachment 1600678

Back when I visited in September, the OL jacket fit me the best out of all the fitting garments so between the stylistic goal (Neapolitan w/ a few ivy details) and fit it was a pretty easy decision.

The process different than my Hemrajani experience in that there were really no body measurements, it was all just tweaks based off of the fitting garment. They pinned a few things and made a few chalk markings on the garment, which I believe will also be sent over to the factory in Naples as a reference along with a number of pictures. The most notable changes from the fitting garment were adjusting for my drop shoulder, a lower buttoning point, and a lower gorge from the OL standard that should be more along the lines of the Model 3

They said the garment should arrive in 4-6 weeks and that they will do any necessary alterations tailoring and the functional cuffs in NYC

Awesome, can't wait to see the finished product.

Did you go to Westbury or Tribeca? Do you have any more details on the fabric? Which mill, book, etc.?

 

[classicalthunde]

Awesome, can't wait to see the finished product.

Did you go to Westbury or Tribeca? Do you have any more details on the fabric? Which mill, book, etc.?

Same here! I went to Tribeca, haven't had the chance to visit Westbury yet as most of my friends live in lower Manhattan.

I actually sourced the fabric myself for CMT and had some family ship it over. Its the same one used in the Vox pic and the same one in this Steed pic, its from Callum MacLean at Butt of Lewis textiles, he's Independent Harris Tweed producer

 

[noa99ap]

Does anyone know what is the pricing range of Scabal MTM for suits (and shirts)? Starting point and mid-range.

Hello ! I work in a MTM store and we offer our suits made with Scabal fabrics and their B2B system. Suits are about 1400€ with their entry level construction and fabrics.

Shirts start at 240€.

 

[Jazzthief]

Hello ! I work in a MTM store and we offer our suits made with Scabal fabrics and their B2B system. Suits are about 1400€ with their entry level construction and fabrics.

Shirts start at 240€.

Thank you!