The Made-to-Measure Thread

[Nobilis Animus]

Nah, I’m trolling. I trampled on it. Duh.


View attachment 1553928

View attachment 1553929

I would absolutely wear this at a pretentious party just for the hell of it.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

If I'm having a 6x2 db suit made, would the buttoning point (assuming middle button) be placed higher on the torso or at about the same height as the buttoning point on a single-breasted? Generally, anyone have any tips for MTM db for shorter guys so we can avoid looking like kids in our granddad's clothes?

LOL the things I do for this forum... I just now compared two jackets I had from the same MTM maker, which I think informs us of their pattern-making thought process for SB vs DB for the same body. Sure enough, the button point of the SB is about ~1" higher than for the 2nd row of a 6x2 DB. This makes sense to me, as if on the DB you had the button as high as on SB, than the wearer's entire chest would be covered with fabric. But I didn't have to worry about this myself; they already had my template from previous SB orders so I just asked for DB and it worked out; your MTM guy would know about this too if he's worth his salt.

You are in DC, right? It sounds like you already have an MTM maker in mind but if not, note that I got mine through Enzo's showroom on Connecticut Ave. If you are in need of a maker, they are for me a trusted place to start.

Re: your concern about shorter guys, I am about 5'9" 220lbs with a barrel chest and have never had trouble with a DB. I think the myth about how it's only good for taller thinner guys comes from those ugly ones from the 1980s. The problem with those was the jacket's ill-designed proportions, not with the wearer.

 

[ballmouse]

New jacket. I think I should add back a tad more volume in the torso. Overall it's pretty good.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

LOL the things I do for this forum... I just now compared two jackets I had from the same MTM maker, which I think informs us of their pattern-making thought process for SB vs DB for the same body. Sure enough, the button point of the SB is about ~1" higher than for the 2nd row of a 6x2 DB. This makes sense to me, as if on the DB you had the button as high as on SB, than the wearer's entire chest would be covered with fabric. But I didn't have to worry about this myself; they already had my template from previous SB orders so I just asked for DB and it worked out; your MTM guy would know about this too if he's worth his salt.

You are in DC, right? It sounds like you already have an MTM maker in mind but if not, note that I got mine through Enzo's showroom on Connecticut Ave. If you are in need of a maker, they are for me a trusted place to start.

Re: your concern about shorter guys, I am about 5'9" 220lbs with a barrel chest and have never had trouble with a DB. I think the myth about how it's only good for taller thinner guys comes from those ugly ones from the 1980s. The problem with those was the jacket's ill-designed proportions, not with the wearer.

Hm that's interesting, I would have expected the exact opposite (that the buttoning point on the 6x2 DB would be about 1" higher than on the SB). I have a MTM maker in DC that I've used several times for SB suits (Ezra Paul) and I trust him to adjust accordingly for DB. Might just ask for a little extra room in the chest and maybe 1cm extra length in the body.

 

[breakaway01]

Hm that's interesting, I would have expected the exact opposite (that the buttoning point on the 6x2 DB would be about 1" higher than on the SB). I have a MTM maker in DC that I've used several times for SB suits (Ezra Paul) and I trust him to adjust accordingly for DB. Might just ask for a little extra room in the chest and maybe 1cm extra length in the body.

I would ask your maker what he’d recommend before specifying a longer DB length and more room in the chest. IMO most people look better in a slightly shorter body length in DB compared to SB. also I think a slightly snug but not tight body is important for a DB jacket not to look shapeless. Harder to get a great DB jacket fit compared to SB.

 

[Despos]

DB Buttoning point should be a minimum 1” lower than the button stance of a SB. I concur with above posts that point this out. Tailors generally agree to make DB’s slightly shorter than SB. Jacket. The closed, square front tends to make the jacket look longer so shortening the length compensates for this.
Pleated trousers and DB Jackets need to be cut, proportioned and fitted properly to look right.

 

[InternalCompilerErr]

As I understand it, a good MTM suit can usually get the fit while standing right. But what about mobility of arms? Do most MTM programs offer the opportunity to make the armhole smaller/higher? Which as I understand it, combine it with some drape, offers lots of freedom of movement.

 

[Markus W]

Do most MTM programs offer the opportunity to make the armhole smaller/higher?

I can't speak for all of them, but I know of some MTM system where you can change the size of the armhole.

 

[Despos]

As I understand it, a good MTM suit can usually get the fit while standing right. But what about mobility of arms? Do most MTM programs offer the opportunity to make the armhole smaller/higher? Which as I understand it, combine it with some drape, offers lots of freedom of movement.

High armholes are one part of developing movement in a jacket. You can’t isolate a high armhole independent of other elements. It’s part of a recipe of fitting. It all works together.
Changing the armhole in a pattern is risky because it effects the sleeve, chest and blade. They all have to be adjusted. Someone has to know what to do and execute it correctly. It’s more difficult when the maker hasn’t seen you or measured you. They are interpreting the information sent to them.

 

[Speedster 356]

New mtm sewt came in:

View attachment 1553395

View attachment 1553396

Where was it made.

 

[hpreston]

Just commissioned a bit of an experiment:

Having had success with The Armoury‘s Ring Jacket MTM program, I’m going with a suit with Ring Jacket jacket, and MTM Rota trousers in this Fox Air cloth.

 

[lordsuperb]

Just commissioned a bit of an experiment:

Having had success with The Armoury‘s Ring Jacket MTM program, I’m going with a suit with Ring Jacket jacket, and MTM Rota trousers in this Fox Air cloth. View attachment 1569537

I’ve had my eye on this fabric for a while but haven’t worn a suit in over a year!!!

 

[classicalthunde]

Just commissioned a bit of an experiment:

Having had success with The Armoury‘s Ring Jacket MTM program, I’m going with a suit with Ring Jacket jacket, and MTM Rota trousers in this Fox Air cloth. View attachment 1569537

Curious as to why you went Rota v. RingJacket for the trousers?

 

[bdavro23]

I’ve had my eye on this fabric for a while but haven’t worn a suit in over a year!!!

I wore a suit I made in February of last year for the first time this past friday for an interview. Thankfully, the pants still fit. Unfortunately, I've lost so much muscle from my chest, shoulders and back that the jacket isnt the great fit it was when it came in.

 

[othertravel]

How good is the Armoury’s MTM program for ring jacket? Do they adjust for issues like uneven shoulders well?