lexxdeleon
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Suitsupply MTM (Munro tailoring era) Ariston P102-3
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your shoulder slope that much naturally?
I never went less than 3.5, except for one sport coat that is 3.25.If you mean the one I posted, it’s from 2017 and I think 3”, but have started drifting wider, particularly on peak. I don’t love super wide notch though. Nice Neapolitan shoulder, but not super long, just high button stance and camera angle give the appearance. Customer is 5’9” or so...
Yes, I have pretty dramatic shoulder slope, right slightly more than the left while also being quite forward. I maxed out Munro's right shoulder slope and it might need to be sloped ever so slightly more. At the time, Susu didn't have access to correcting forward shoulders (but Munro did have a forward shoulder adjustment available for others using their MTM system).
I think it's worth noting that the jacket is unstructured, and yes, the jacket is short. A fault of my own, as I was the fitter and shorter was my preference at the time. Given my height, it did feel nice having a jacket that was a little too short vs pretty long on me in RTW!
Also, do you have a picture from the back? There are no signs of needing more slope in the front and I suspect you might have gone too far (would be evident from jacket collar riding high on shirt collar). There are other factors that can easily be confused with needing more slope, like shoulders forward for instance. Especially easy to overcompensate on shirts to try to clean up what I call “holster” lines (from neckline to armpits)Yes, I have pretty dramatic shoulder slope, right slightly more than the left while also being quite forward. I maxed out Munro's right shoulder slope and it might need to be sloped ever so slightly more. At the time, Susu didn't have access to correcting forward shoulders (but Munro did have a forward shoulder adjustment available for others using their MTM system).
I think it's worth noting that the jacket is unstructured, and yes, the jacket is short. A fault of my own, as I was the fitter and shorter was my preference at the time. Given my height, it did feel nice having a jacket that was a little too short vs pretty long on me in RTW!
I also have pretty dramatic slope, albeit less than yours. Doing unpadded/lightly padded shoulders like that will only exaggerate the angle. Even on my Neapolitan shouldered garments I still put a somewhat hefty pad in. It doesn’t extend past the shoulder, so know one’s the wiser and I don’t look as much like a “volcano” as a customer once delicately put it.
Pardon my ignorance, but who is “Munro”?
I also have pretty dramatic slope, albeit less than yours. Doing unpadded/lightly padded shoulders like that will only exaggerate the angle. Even on my Neapolitan shouldered garments I still put a somewhat hefty pad in. It doesn’t extend past the shoulder, so know one’s the wiser and I don’t look as much like a “volcano” as a customer once delicately put it.
Also, do you have a picture from the back? There are no signs of needing more slope in the front and I suspect you might have gone too far (would be evident from jacket collar riding high on shirt collar). There are other factors that can easily be confused with needing more slope, like shoulders forward for instance. Especially easy to overcompensate on shirts to try to clean up what I call “holster” lines (from neckline to armpits)
Pardon my ignorance, but who is “Munro”?
I'm not as much of a fan of the wider-splay Neapolitan lapels as many people are here, but I still think that is a great looking jacket. I love the fabricSuitsupply MTM (Munro tailoring era) Ariston P102-3
Ahh, to be honest I never thought about the "volcano" look lol. I think I do prefer the look of a slightly sloped shoulder personally, gives off a more "slouchy" vibe which works well in casual Southern California, at least in most of my situations.
You bring up a good point though, it's not really something I had thought about in the past and is good general advice, especially for suiting.
I was going to post photos of the back along with the front, but I can't seem to find them. I know I did take back photos so they've got to be somewhere and I'll work on digging them up - would like to hear your feedback on it. With this fabric, I don't think I'd change the shoulder slope. You're right that it doesn't show signs of needing more slope, it's a 330g, 36%WV 36%CO 18%PC 10%PA fabric which I suspect is woven by Ferla. On lighter and even medium weight fabrics, it tends to show slight low right shoulder on this same pattern.
It's a real struggle with shirts and my forward shoulders. On Munro's system, lowering shoulders exacerbates the "holster" lines I get (really like that description btw). I tried a local "bespoke" (they'll cut a paper pattern, but only based off skin measurements, no draping of fabric or trial fitting) and the holster lines while improved, still persisted. That was only the first attempt with them, so I may continue to work on it with them since they are able to adjust the pattern in any way.
Do you have a recommendation on what pattern adjustment to make for my forward shoulders to address those holster lines?