The Made-to-Measure Thread

[heldentenor]

Here's my first ever MTM commission--a green shetland tweed from Abraham Moon. I still wear it often (I'm wearing it today), and think that it represents a pretty good illustration of some of the virtues and limitations of MTM.

I got a fabric I really wanted at a time when green tweed sportcoats were rare, details I chose, and a fit that "works." But this jacket was cut just a bit too big for me, I think, in order to give a margin for movement and avoid pulling or tightness. As a result, the front felt and looked great, but the back was pretty sloppy due to excess fabric. A substantial amount had to be spent on altering this through the armholes on both sides, and the result, as you can see, is decent but not on par with the best in my closet.

Those with more experience: any thoughts?

 

[classicalthunde]

Here's my first ever MTM commission--a green shetland tweed from Abraham Moon. I still wear it often (I'm wearing it today), and think that it represents a pretty good illustration of some of the virtues and limitations of MTM.

I got a fabric I really wanted at a time when green tweed sportcoats were rare, details I chose, and a fit that "works." But this jacket was cut just a bit too big for me, I think, in order to give a margin for movement and avoid pulling or tightness. As a result, the front felt and looked great, but the back was pretty sloppy due to excess fabric. A substantial amount had to be spent on altering this through the armholes on both sides, and the result, as you can see, is decent but not on par with the best in my closet.

Those with more experience: any thoughts? View attachment 1485915 View attachment 1485916

I think I have a sport coat in this same fabric! who was the maker?

 

[bdavro23]

Here's my first ever MTM commission--a green shetland tweed from Abraham Moon. I still wear it often (I'm wearing it today), and think that it represents a pretty good illustration of some of the virtues and limitations of MTM.

I got a fabric I really wanted at a time when green tweed sportcoats were rare, details I chose, and a fit that "works." But this jacket was cut just a bit too big for me, I think, in order to give a margin for movement and avoid pulling or tightness. As a result, the front felt and looked great, but the back was pretty sloppy due to excess fabric. A substantial amount had to be spent on altering this through the armholes on both sides, and the result, as you can see, is decent but not on par with the best in my closet.

Those with more experience: any thoughts? View attachment 1485915 View attachment 1485916

There are many far worse crimes that have been committed in the name of MTM. The back isnt perfect, but this is certainly serviceable and you could spend more money having it cleaned up if you chose. Whether it would be worth the investment at this point is up to you, obviously.

The real question is given your experience thus far, will you ever be happy with the jacket. If yes, then spend the money to get it fixed. If not, dont throw good money after bad...

 

[heldentenor]

I think I have a sport coat in this same fabric! who was the maker?

Kent Wang.

 

[heldentenor]

The real question is given your experience thus far, will you ever be happy with the jacket. If yes, then spend the money to get it fixed. If not, dont throw good money after bad...

That is the question, isn’t it? MTM has actually changed how I think about this, as more recently made (and better fitted) garments get a lot more use. This one still makes me happy for both the fabric and because it was my first MTM, and I do wear it, but I don’t reach for it with the same joy that I do my more recent stuff.

On the calculus of wear/alter/replace, this one’s probably a wear now, alter soon, replace eventually (likely with the green Caccioppoli donegal that I’ve coveted for at least five years now).

 

[dieworkwear]

Tailored clothing nowadays is only worn for StyleForum and Zoom, so I don't think anyone will see the back.

 

[Mercman]

Good advice is definitely necessary for those new to custom clothes, and more common in individuals than companies - i.e. the individual fitter rather than a brand image.

I'm not sure though that a tailor will be able to inform a client's tastes properly, no matter how well he cuts. Co-incidentally, a Neapolitan business suit is something almost anyone should be talked out of, IMO.

Why's that then? Surely, a Neapolitan business suit would be a pretty versatile item.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Why's that then? Surely, a Neapolitan business suit would be a pretty versatile item.

That was tongue-in-cheek. I've no real problem with Neapolitan suits on others, they're just not for me.

 

[Mercman]

That was tongue-in-cheek. I've no real problem with Neapolitan suits on others, they're just not for me.

Would you mind saying why you don't like them, Nobilis.

I have no dog in the fight btw, I own both English and Neapolitan suits and jackets.

 

[bdavro23]

Tailored clothing nowadays is only worn for StyleForum and Zoom, so I don't think anyone will see the back.

I make sure to get all dolled up each morning when I take my daughter to daycare. I know how much the other moms like seeing a well shaped lapel...

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Would you mind saying why you don't like them, Nobilis.

I have no dog in the fight btw, I own both English and Neapolitan suits and jackets.

I have squared shoulders and don't mind a little less padding, but a total lack of structure does not look right to me. Much is made of the shirring, but I personally prefer shoulder roping combined with a high arm and a wider sleeve to create the ease of movement. Pagoda shoulders don't work on my frame.

Neapolitan suits also tend to be lighter in order to accommodate the tailoring, and that doesn't work for me either. I like heavier fabrics (living in Canada where they're useful for three seasons) and the type of structure throughout the body that can be created from them. A shoulder with some light padding or wadding, a close-cut waist, and a somewhat lower buttoning point shows off my better attributes - as I have a 10" drop and good posture.

 

[Mercman]

Thanks for your response, Nobilis, which makes perfect sense. I can see in particular why you'd prefer something a bit heavier, living in Canada.

I must admit I like a bit of structure in the body and have a couple of M-T-M suits that do that job well. It can be a very smart look for formal occasions.

On the other hand, like you, I've got a pretty big drop and sometimes feel that a more structured suit makes me look a bit top heavy - especially as I have fairly slim legs. Hence the appeal of something more Neapolitan. Also, I increasing appreciate patch pockets.

Simon on Permanent style did an article on a charcoal Neapolitan suit a while ago and it looked great. Somehow formal but with a casual twist (sorry, I know that's contradictory).

I got myself a PoW Neapolitan suit earlier this year and really like the fact it feels just a bit more comfortable than a more structured suit. Although, having said that, I've only had a couple of opportunities to wear it what with this damned virus situation.

 

[heldentenor]

Not my forum and I don't "own" this thread, but I do think that the post above is sailing close to the wind of what's usually only allowed for affiliate vendors in their own threads. It's great to get a maker's perspective on process, but celebrating outcomes is likely to come across as advertising and piss off people who see it as a competitive advantage.

Just my $.02.

 

[othertravel]

Not my forum and I don't "own" this thread, but I do think that the post above is sailing close to the wind of what's usually only allowed for affiliate vendors in their own threads. It's great to get a maker's perspective on process, but celebrating outcomes is likely to come across as advertising and piss off people who see it as a competitive advantage.

Just my $.02.

It is a bit of a grey area, I agree. But the post indicates he's doing it at cost, so not exactly a money-making venture at this point (very soon though, I hope!).

 

[bdavro23]

Use both side body and one piece front. Side body here is separate from the front panel. Seam runs from armhole to the hem
View attachment 1485828

One piece, the side and front panel are one piece. the dart ends at the pocket.
View attachment 1485829

Are there specific applications for each of these patterns based on the outcome you desire, or is it kind of fielder's choice?