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The Made-to-Measure Thread

clee1982

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your shoulder slope that much naturally?
 

lexxdeleon

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your shoulder slope that much naturally?
Yes, I have pretty dramatic shoulder slope, right slightly more than the left while also being quite forward. I maxed out Munro's right shoulder slope and it might need to be sloped ever so slightly more. At the time, Susu didn't have access to correcting forward shoulders (but Munro did have a forward shoulder adjustment available for others using their MTM system).

I think it's worth noting that the jacket is unstructured, and yes, the jacket is short. A fault of my own, as I was the fitter and shorter was my preference at the time. Given my height, it did feel nice having a jacket that was a little too short vs pretty long on me in RTW!
 

comrade

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If you mean the one I posted, it’s from 2017 and I think 3”, but have started drifting wider, particularly on peak. I don’t love super wide notch though. Nice Neapolitan shoulder, but not super long, just high button stance and camera angle give the appearance. Customer is 5’9” or so...
I never went less than 3.5, except for one sport coat that is 3.25.
But then, my ties have stayed at 3.75.
 

EzraPaul

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Yes, I have pretty dramatic shoulder slope, right slightly more than the left while also being quite forward. I maxed out Munro's right shoulder slope and it might need to be sloped ever so slightly more. At the time, Susu didn't have access to correcting forward shoulders (but Munro did have a forward shoulder adjustment available for others using their MTM system).

I think it's worth noting that the jacket is unstructured, and yes, the jacket is short. A fault of my own, as I was the fitter and shorter was my preference at the time. Given my height, it did feel nice having a jacket that was a little too short vs pretty long on me in RTW!
I also have pretty dramatic slope, albeit less than yours. Doing unpadded/lightly padded shoulders like that will only exaggerate the angle. Even on my Neapolitan shouldered garments I still put a somewhat hefty pad in. It doesn’t extend past the shoulder, so know one’s the wiser and I don’t look as much like a “volcano” as a customer once delicately put it.
 

EzraPaul

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Yes, I have pretty dramatic shoulder slope, right slightly more than the left while also being quite forward. I maxed out Munro's right shoulder slope and it might need to be sloped ever so slightly more. At the time, Susu didn't have access to correcting forward shoulders (but Munro did have a forward shoulder adjustment available for others using their MTM system).

I think it's worth noting that the jacket is unstructured, and yes, the jacket is short. A fault of my own, as I was the fitter and shorter was my preference at the time. Given my height, it did feel nice having a jacket that was a little too short vs pretty long on me in RTW!
Also, do you have a picture from the back? There are no signs of needing more slope in the front and I suspect you might have gone too far (would be evident from jacket collar riding high on shirt collar). There are other factors that can easily be confused with needing more slope, like shoulders forward for instance. Especially easy to overcompensate on shirts to try to clean up what I call “holster” lines (from neckline to armpits)
 

othertravel

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I also have pretty dramatic slope, albeit less than yours. Doing unpadded/lightly padded shoulders like that will only exaggerate the angle. Even on my Neapolitan shouldered garments I still put a somewhat hefty pad in. It doesn’t extend past the shoulder, so know one’s the wiser and I don’t look as much like a “volcano” as a customer once delicately put it.
You could much worse than 'Volcano' as a nickname.
 

bdavro23

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Pardon my ignorance, but who is “Munro”?
Munro is a clothing agent/ kind of manufacturer based out of Amsterdam. They are a major supplier in the industry, at least as far as MTM goes, and also do ready to wear.
 

lexxdeleon

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I also have pretty dramatic slope, albeit less than yours. Doing unpadded/lightly padded shoulders like that will only exaggerate the angle. Even on my Neapolitan shouldered garments I still put a somewhat hefty pad in. It doesn’t extend past the shoulder, so know one’s the wiser and I don’t look as much like a “volcano” as a customer once delicately put it.
Ahh, to be honest I never thought about the "volcano" look lol. I think I do prefer the look of a slightly sloped shoulder personally, gives off a more "slouchy" vibe which works well in casual Southern California, at least in most of my situations.

You bring up a good point though, it's not really something I had thought about in the past and is good general advice, especially for suiting.

Also, do you have a picture from the back? There are no signs of needing more slope in the front and I suspect you might have gone too far (would be evident from jacket collar riding high on shirt collar). There are other factors that can easily be confused with needing more slope, like shoulders forward for instance. Especially easy to overcompensate on shirts to try to clean up what I call “holster” lines (from neckline to armpits)
I was going to post photos of the back along with the front, but I can't seem to find them. I know I did take back photos so they've got to be somewhere and I'll work on digging them up - would like to hear your feedback on it. With this fabric, I don't think I'd change the shoulder slope. You're right that it doesn't show signs of needing more slope, it's a 330g, 36%WV 36%CO 18%PC 10%PA fabric which I suspect is woven by Ferla. On lighter and even medium weight fabrics, it tends to show slight low right shoulder on this same pattern.

It's a real struggle with shirts and my forward shoulders. On Munro's system, lowering shoulders exacerbates the "holster" lines I get (really like that description btw). I tried a local "bespoke" (they'll cut a paper pattern, but only based off skin measurements, no draping of fabric or trial fitting) and the holster lines while improved, still persisted. That was only the first attempt with them, so I may continue to work on it with them since they are able to adjust the pattern in any way.

Do you have a recommendation on what pattern adjustment to make for my forward shoulders to address those holster lines?
 

lexxdeleon

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Pardon my ignorance, but who is “Munro”?
bdavro23 covered the gist of it, but I'll add that they were started by a few ex-Suitsupply employees several years ago. I view them as a private label MTM company, though they aren't exactly the manufacturer and have expanded into offering many more product lines like shoes, etc. Many MTM shops use them, as bdavro23 mentioned, they're a big player in the MTM industry. They've started opening up "a shop within a shop" under Munro Atelier, I believe.
 

knittieguy

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Suitsupply MTM (Munro tailoring era) Ariston P102-3

I'm not as much of a fan of the wider-splay Neapolitan lapels as many people are here, but I still think that is a great looking jacket. I love the fabric
 

EzraPaul

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Ahh, to be honest I never thought about the "volcano" look lol. I think I do prefer the look of a slightly sloped shoulder personally, gives off a more "slouchy" vibe which works well in casual Southern California, at least in most of my situations.

You bring up a good point though, it's not really something I had thought about in the past and is good general advice, especially for suiting.



I was going to post photos of the back along with the front, but I can't seem to find them. I know I did take back photos so they've got to be somewhere and I'll work on digging them up - would like to hear your feedback on it. With this fabric, I don't think I'd change the shoulder slope. You're right that it doesn't show signs of needing more slope, it's a 330g, 36%WV 36%CO 18%PC 10%PA fabric which I suspect is woven by Ferla. On lighter and even medium weight fabrics, it tends to show slight low right shoulder on this same pattern.

It's a real struggle with shirts and my forward shoulders. On Munro's system, lowering shoulders exacerbates the "holster" lines I get (really like that description btw). I tried a local "bespoke" (they'll cut a paper pattern, but only based off skin measurements, no draping of fabric or trial fitting) and the holster lines while improved, still persisted. That was only the first attempt with them, so I may continue to work on it with them since they are able to adjust the pattern in any way.

Do you have a recommendation on what pattern adjustment to make for my forward shoulders to address those holster lines?
it’s hard to say exactly without seeing you in person, but it could be several things. Forward shoulders usually requires reducing the upper chest, but it could also be an issue of where the collar is located and the shape of the armhole itself (circle vs oval). When shoulders are forward or back, the problem is essentially that the front and back slopes don’t match, but most tailors/clothiers/salespeople don’t seem to know how to adjust for that. So to clean up the front by increasing the slope can create new problems in the back. Rob Peter to pay Paul... Shoot me a note tomorrow and I’ll send you a shot of my personal shirt pattern, which should be informative since we’re in the same boat.

There are also telltale signs on jackets and shirts that inform whether it’s slope, shoulder position or both. If you find that your jacket collars sit too high on your collar, or that the lapels come off your chest, you’ve sloped too much. Similarly on shirts you’ll see a roll under the collar.
 

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