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The Made-to-Measure Thread

comrade

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On a different note, I'd heard about the Paddock Suit, but JFK's suit always looked terrible to me.

I love the way this one looks

Fantastic !! except for the rollino, which isn't all that extreme
 

bdavro23

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On a different note, I'd heard about the Paddock Suit, but JFK's suit always looked terrible to me.

I love the way this one looks

I learned something today. I had never heard of a Paddock suit until today and its very interesting. I had heard that JFK always buttoned both buttons because he wore a back brace and wanted to hide it. Sounds like this isnt the real story, or perhaps he wore the Paddock suits because they hide the brace. Anyway, thanks for the info!
 

dieworkwear

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I learned something today. I had never heard of a Paddock suit until today and its very interesting. I had heard that JFK always buttoned both buttons because he wore a back brace and wanted to hide it. Sounds like this isnt the real story, or perhaps he wore the Paddock suits because they hide the brace. Anyway, thanks for the info!
I think there are two issues: why did JFK button the bottom button, and why did he wear the Paddock coat.

Paul at Chipp/ Winston, whose family used to cut some of JFK's clothes, told me that they made Paddock coats from JFK because he wore a back brace.

JFK wore a back brace because he had chronic back pain, resulting from an injury he sustained when his PT boat was sunk during WWII.

Here's JFK during his Presidency, wearing a Paddock coat.

EYj-jfQUYAERGYe.jpeg
tumblr_nrhacgP9sb1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg


And the Duke wearing this cut
EYj-jfNUEAE8Vio.jpeg



But Kennedy also fastened the bottom button during his college years, which was before he served in the war. Here he is in a one button cuff! This is him at Harvard.

-sIPnmbX.jpg



Also pre-war

tumblr_npeebhfpq91rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
tumblr_ns76jvRrnL1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
tumblr_oytgpcNPxk1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg



He also fastened the bottom button on non-Paddock coats. This is pre-presidency and post-war

tumblr_o47gkgfIpL1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg



I don't know the truth of the matter, tbh. I believe he wore the Paddock to hide his back brace because Paul told me so, and he would know since his family made JFK's coats. But it seems JFK also just fastened his bottom button because he did so. Maybe it was a family thing. This is him with his father and brother:


tumblr_mmenr0OqGu1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
 

FlyingHorker

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Fantastic !! except for the rollino, which isn't all that extreme
I had to google rollino. Personally can't distinguish between that and a traditional british roped shoulder.
I learned something today. I had never heard of a Paddock suit until today and its very interesting. I had heard that JFK always buttoned both buttons because he wore a back brace and wanted to hide it. Sounds like this isnt the real story, or perhaps he wore the Paddock suits because they hide the brace. Anyway, thanks for the info!
No problem man. For me the picture was the highlight, it looks quite modern and the dapper guy wearing them supports that idea.

@dieworkwear JFK just looks sloppy to me, or the jacket reminds me of regular suits from a couple years ago with high button stances.

Great collection of pictures, the Duke pulls them off nicely.
 

dieworkwear

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I had to google rollino. Personally can't distinguish between that and a traditional british roped shoulder.
There's no difference. Con rollino is basically just how you say you want a roped shoulder in Italian.

Traditionally, a roped shoulder is done with a bit of roping, which looks a bit like a pipe cleaner. But nowadays, when you ask for a roped shoulder, you'll mostly get a jacket where both seam outlets are pressed towards the sleeve of the coat. Combined with a bit of wadding, that's what results in the very light ridge you see on that coat.
 

Bromley

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This is the "paddock jacket" that makes me consider trying the style every once in a while. I generally like the way a jacket looks when the lapel begins to roll a little on the high side (I have a meager chest and a burgeoning gut, and I think the visual bulk of a high-rolling lapel offers a nice distraction from my figure). I've started to have all my jackets made as true 3-buttons, and I love the way the break in the lapel settles over time.
POW kicking soccer ball.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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This is the "paddock jacket" that makes me consider trying the style every once in a while. I generally like the way a jacket looks when the lapel begins to roll a little on the high side (I have a meager chest and a burgeoning gut, and I think the visual bulk of a high-rolling lapel offers a nice distraction from my figure). I've started to have all my jackets made as true 3-buttons, and I love the way the break in the lapel settles over time.
View attachment 1482873
You should get one just to post a pic on StyleForum, and then when someone says you've wrongly fastened the bottom button, you can hit em with the "accttualllyyyyy..."
 

Zerase

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This is the "paddock jacket" that makes me consider trying the style every once in a while. I generally like the way a jacket looks when the lapel begins to roll a little on the high side (I have a meager chest and a burgeoning gut, and I think the visual bulk of a high-rolling lapel offers a nice distraction from my figure). I've started to have all my jackets made as true 3-buttons, and I love the way the break in the lapel settles over time.
View attachment 1482873
With what looks like pretty open quarters, this look isn't that bad at all. Obviously anachronistic but it looks rather good imo
 

classicalthunde

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speaking of different style jackets... @dieworkwear can you share some examples from your library of country tweed hacking jackets? I've been looking for a classic example to save for when i order one down the road...I've already saved your 3r2 examples in my ivy/trad folder!
 

dieworkwear

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speaking of different style jackets... @dieworkwear can you share some examples from your library of country tweed hacking jackets? I've been looking for a classic example to save for when i order one down the road...I've already saved your 3r2 examples in my ivy/trad folder!
Do you mean jackets with hacking pockets?

Admit, I don't think I have many photos, if any, of that. I've never really been a fan of the style, personally.
 

classicalthunde

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Do you mean jackets with hacking pockets?

Admit, I don't think I have many photos, if any, of that. I've never really been a fan of the style, personally.

yea, although I thought a hacking jacket was a riding coat that had more stylistic details to it than just hacking pockets...but maybe i was wrong...

the classic example I'm thinking of is Connery's Bond from Goldfiger, and was looking for some other reference points.

bond goldfinger hacking.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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yea, although a thought a hacking jacket was a riding coat that had more stylistic details to it than just hacking pockets...but maybe i was wrong...

the classic example I'm thinking of is Connery's Bond from Goldfiger, and was looking for some other reference points.

View attachment 1483057
Oh, right. Yea, I think some of that stuff is outside what I normally look at.
 

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