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The Look goes on...

fxh

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I think once you get into the Ivy/Modernist connection and general look. It never leaves you and if it suits you, like I think it does me, you can always rely on the principles if not the exact replicas.
To me it’s the last time clothes, and design, furniture, houses etc were modern. And they still feel modern to me. But then. I’m of a certain age.
 

Kingstonian

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I was lucky enough to visit Lloyd in London (Hackney) in 2019. And try on jackets so I knew what worked. Spent a Pleasant few hours talking about clothes, music and subcultures and connections. He’s a good bloke as we say. And Australian music too.

Edit:: it was 2018 I think. Time flies when you’re getting old and in lockdown.
I had a couple of their jackets - a blue ‘blazer’ (but without metal buttons) and a herringbone. They were based in Fulham, near the Half Moon pub. I met the two of them and they were fine chaps.
I am not sure ‘they went under’. I think it was more a case of they decided to knock it on the head. They were very good and their kit was very good value..
 

Botolph

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Hardy & Johnson had some good jackets. Never was able to pop in while in London, as my buddies would rip the piss out of me if I went into a shop that was outside the more obvious skin/casual/punk sensibilities... Anyways, I liked their clothes and the tweeds and other fabrics they used.
 

fxh

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What shirt is that? Gant?
I’ll look later but I’m pretty sure it’s a LE one. A few years back when the AUD$ was running at U$A $1.30 or so and LE still had great stuff we went a bit silly. At one stage I rang them as their high rise chinos were in deadstock and got 10 pairs in my size for around aud$100 the lot. Still got 5 pairs in original packaging in cupboard.
 

Botolph

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I’ll look later but I’m pretty sure it’s a LE one. A few years back when the AUD$ was running at U$A $1.30 or so and LE still had great stuff we went a bit silly. At one stage I rang them as their high rise chinos were in deadstock and got 10 pairs in my size for around aud$100 the lot. Still got 5 pairs in original packaging in cupboard.

Yeah I really liked that striped OCBD; perfect thing under almost any Baracuta jacket.
Land’s End chinos: right now I’m wearing an oooold pair kicking around early Sunday Morning style mesen. Better rise, better fit, better quality.
 

Botolph

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Land’s End chinos over an ancient pair of Weejuns
607C0188-B1DF-496E-83E9-B2B4F4090CD9.jpeg
 

fxh

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Yeah I really liked that striped OCBD; perfect thing under almost any Baracuta jacket.
Land’s End chinos: right now I’m wearing an oooold pair kicking around early Sunday Morning style mesen. Better rise, better fit, better quality.
It was back when their Hyde Park OCBD still had higher and longer collars but I’m pretty sure thats a casual line they had called Sailrigger or something. I have loads of them with different stripes. Other brands too. I’ve got a few BB ones for sale, but I’d given up locally cos of virus dress down and I think overseas post might be too stiff. Happy to post pics of them here or somewhere if anyone is interested to look. Got some vintage USA Ivy jackets to get rid of too. And some skinny knit ties. I can pm pics.
 

fxh

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Nice pics.
I never did get in on the Hardy and Johnson jackets as I’m not on Facebook - too bad they went under but you got a good un there!

I think it amusing that Johnson was doing ivy jackets. I understand he was around the Mod scene in the sixties before disappearing to Scandinavia with his girl. I first came across his shops in Kings Road and Kensington market in the eighties when he was doing all leather La Rocka gear such as the George Michael jacket in the ‘Faith’ video and the snakeskin Chelsea boots in Billy Idol’s ‘To Be A Lover’ video. That was some U-turn to get back into doing Ivy threads!
Lloyd is more than capable of speaking for himself, but my sense was they didn’t “go under”. For some years they’d just been doing limited runs , in limited sizes in materials and designs (mostly modernist Ivy) that they liked. Doing it from home. When the run was sold out , it was sold out.

My sense is despite a passionate small bunch of tragics the market isn’t that big. And it’s mostly UK. The USA Ivy/Trad is a different beast except for a few who are hip to the modernist jive jazz juice.**

I don’t see much tension between the hip Kensington /Kings road thing. Like a lot of us I’ve been through a few years and tried a few looks like “rock dog”. And different clothes for different situations. I still have some narrow black jeans, black Cuban heeled RMWs, black leather jacket etc for those , sticky carpet gigs, rare at the moment.

edit:: ** ie Nick Waterhouse
 
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fxh

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Nice pics.
I never did get in on the Hardy and Johnson jackets as I’m not on Facebook - too bad they went under but you got a good un there!
I got another one at the same time. Perhaps more wearable in different contexts. A great mid to dark brown herringbone. They are both good looking, fairly lightweight , city tweed, with a pretty wet hand unlike Harris and other tweeds I have.

its a sad story. I got them in February had sleeves adjusted, waited for cool weather, then we went into semi lockdown and zoom meetings, then eased off but still zoom meetings, then level 4 lockdown now. And winter is over . So it will be another 6 months before I get to wear them. They are not even worn in, just been hanging in cupboard.

It’s now near end September and I haven’t worn a suit or tie since January.
 
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Thin White Duke

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Lloyd is more than capable of speaking for himself, but my sense was they didn’t “go under”. For some years they’d just been doing limited runs , in limited sizes in materials and designs (mostly modernist Ivy) that they liked. Doing it from home. When the run was sold out , it was sold out.

My sense is despite a passionate small bunch of tragics the market isn’t that big. And it’s mostly UK. The USA Ivy/Trad is a different beast except for a few who are hip to the modernist jive jazz juice.**

I don’t see much tension between the hip Kensington /Kings road thing. Like a lot of us I’ve been through a few years and tried a few looks like “rock dog”. And different clothes for different situations. I still have some narrow black jeans, black Cuban heeled RMWs, black leather jacket etc for those , sticky carpet gigs, rare at the moment.

edit:: ** ie Nick Waterhouse
Yeah the impression I’m getting is that they didn’t go bankrupt or whatever just decided to call it a day. Either way a bit sad for enthusiasts and I would have liked to try the jackets out.

The La Rocka leather jackets he did from the mid eighties, even though not my scene, were really well done and I noticed that website revived momentarily a few years ago, just selling t shirts mostly and a nice take on a leather trucker with trade mark skull metal buttons but at a vast cost and in black only. Not sure if that site’s still active now.
Either way I used to love Kensington Market and would always have a look in Johnson’s there just for a nose. He also sold variations on those Robot X George Cox shoes which I‘ve always liked and got a pair at British Boot Co last time I was in London. Wrote about it here ...


Wonder what his next venture might be?
 

Kingstonian

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Yeah the impression I’m getting is that they didn’t go bankrupt or whatever just decided to call it a day. Either way a bit sad for enthusiasts and I would have liked to try the jackets out.

The La Rocka leather jackets he did from the mid eighties, even though not my scene, were really well done and I noticed that website revived momentarily a few years ago, just selling t shirts mostly and a nice take on a leather trucker with trade mark skull metal buttons but at a vast cost and in black only. Not sure if that site’s still active now.
Either way I used to love Kensington Market and would always have a look in Johnson’s there just for a nose. He also sold variations on those Robot X George Cox shoes which I‘ve always liked and got a pair at British Boot Co last time I was in London. Wrote about it here ...


Wonder what his next venture might be?
Strangely enough I was up in Camden Town on Friday and passed the British Boot shop on the way back to the Tube station.

I went to Ben Nevis to get a replacement Harrington in burgundy, rather than James Dean red( I know his was not actually a Harrington jacket). They are cheap and handy for Spring and Autumn. Probably not suitable for my age group, but better than the other pensioner beige one I own. I am not overweight but I think gravitas becomes more important as the years roll on.

Has anyone tried one of the FixnZip clip ons to mend a broken zip? That was the reason I bought the new jacket. Getting an alterations tailor to replace a zip would be a good part of the cost of a new jacket. Whereas the clip on sliders are a tenner for metal ones, or around £3 for a plastic one on eBay. Worth a punt unless I hear they are useless.

I also intended to visit a Tapping the Admiral,probably the best of the Camden pubs for ale. However it was not open until 4pm. Staff shortages according to the landlord.
 

covskin

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I got another one at the same time. Perhaps more wearable in different contexts. A great mid to dark brown herringbone.

Black and white dogtooth is a brave move

Has anyone tried one of the FixnZip clip ons to mend a broken zip? That was the reason I bought the new jacket. Getting an alterations tailor to replace a zip would be a good part of the cost of a new jacket

What's wrong with the zip? If it's not closing the teeth the slider just needs a squeeze each side from some pliers.
 

Kingstonian

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Black and white dogtooth is a brave move



What's wrong with the zip? If it's not closing the teeth the slider just needs a squeeze each side from some pliers.

Yes. It is not closing the teeth. I will give the pliers a go now.
 

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