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The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Very impressive! I was going to suggest 'Show us your Fred Perrys' for the next 'event' but you have just killed that - as the CM guys would say!

    @Clouseau - do you think that the MiE are still superior today? I haven't worn my new FP x Nigel Cabourn yet but it feels the nicest to date.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016
  2. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Quote:I can say my favorite at the moment is my Black/Champagne MIE (bottom left of the picture). Both cut and material are lovely, it's very long, and i think it will last. It really reminds me of the quality of the firsts MIE i had late seventies/early eighties. So yes, i think the MIE are still superior today. The cloth is not as thick as the Portugese or Japanese ones, but more supple and elegant.

    I would place the FP/Nigel Cabourn in second. Very good material (as with most MIPortugal FP, they last too), and the cut is different but interesting as is the bigger collar.

    I would put the Japanese ones ex æquo at the second place, good material that last, but they are short and quite slim.

    I never owned an Italian FP polo (quite rare i think, i saw some in Roma a few years ago but they were not plain and a bit flashy (very Italian) - so not my style, but i do regret i didn't buy one for trying), but i've got Italian FP knitwear of great quality.

    You won't be surprised if at the very end i'll place the Chinese ones. They are baggy, they fade quickly, and they don't last. They are doing a slim fit version for a year or two, the cut is better but the quality stays the same: poor..

    As a side note, i mentioned on a previous post the very first Fred Perry polo i had, a red 3b with a white 'retro' laurel. Well, i'm almost sure it was made in... Belgium !

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016
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  3. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  4. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    A close-up of my older FP
    [​IMG]

    As you can see, it had some wear. But as it's around 35 years old, it's not that bad...
    It's a Medium, but with today sizing it would be more like a L or an XL slim fit...
    MIE of course.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Interesting collection of FP Clouseau.
    The Nigel Cabourn ones,I have seen them on offer online,the fit looks quite generous do you go down a size ?.
    I have bought 5 FP polos in the last 2 years and the quality is variable even amongst the 4 made in China ones,I also got caught out with the slim fit last year (I didn't realise there were slim fit and regular) according to the assistant in the FP shop this year they have gone back to one fit.
    Also on the slim fit that I bought the collar seems slightly smaller,colour fading is also a problem in the darker coloured ones.
    My conclusion with FP is that you have to look at each item separately,some will be ok others not,same as so many other brands these days.
    I have seen online an FP made in England Harrington that looked very nice in the pictures,would be interested to see one not that I need a Harrington at the moment.

    The Wolsey knitted cotton polo arrived,not the colour that I ordered !,anyway it looks ok the collar is more like a Smedley than a FP and the sleeves are a more traditional length than a lot of polos now,I have decided to keep it although my GF has said that it will be interesting to see how it looks when its been washed a few times.
    Again the polo is made in China although the advertising had stressed Wolseys British heritage..

    So I am still looking for a plain blue ( not navy ) plain short sleeve polo shirt with 3 buttons,something that could be worn with jeans or trousers,and theres not a lot of choice at the moment.

    The other item that I am looking about for is a Cable or Arran cardigan in blue or navy for the autumn/winter,I don't want a shawl neck or visible logo,again not a lot of choice,there is one in the Woolovers catalogue,their knitwear is variable in size and quality too...any ideas ?.

    My quest for a plain short sleeve BD goes on as well,plenty of checks ( RL do some nice ones) or long sleeve ( Gant have nice pink and yellow shirts with a same coloured logo hardly visible ), I hark back to the early 70s short sleeve Ben Shermans in pastel colours but can find nothing about like that now.
     
  6. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Cerneabbas,

    about the Nigel Cabourn/FP polo, yes i went one size down, and the fit is good, but still a little big. I think the cut of their polos changed each year. The first ones were really oversized. The second ones (the one i bought) were still oversized, but far less. And the actual ones (- the one MrK bought- seems to be generous but not that big.)

    Your conclusion about FP is good, i agree with it, in the case of the MIChina ones some doesn't look that bad, but they won't last whatever the case, and they fade really quick. As i said before, very easy for me to compare with the other ones made in different countries and in different times (1980s, 1990s, 2000s, 2010s). The Chinese are fragile and they tear apart after a certain number of wash.

    Now about the MIE FP Harringtons. They are quality indeed, a close friend only wears FP Harringtons. In my case, and with my classical taste (Personal preference) i don't like to have a logo on a Jacket.
     
  7. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Okay, forget the suits, I'll run up a photo of my FPs...
     
  8. skinny legs

    skinny legs Senior member

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    I narrowly missed out on an ultra rare FP.
    My old school used to provide ball boys for the tennis at Wimbledon.
    I was selected, did the first two sessions of training, then got slung out due to a behavioural misdemeanour.
    The uniform was purple shorts, olive green FP polo with purple sleeves; olive and purple used to be the traditional championship colours but its changed now.
    This was in 1980, so it fitted in well with revival wear. Each ball boy had two changes of kit, and a good few of my mates sold one the shirts on for a small fortune to mainly American spectators.
    A couple of my friends still have their uniform; I will try to upload
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2016
  9. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I just found the Gentlemans Gazette Polo shirt guide,quite interesting and I agreed with most of it and could see a lot of sense in it,however 'never wear a polo shirt with a blazer' ? I think that it can look ok.
    Also didn't mention long sleeve polo type shirts which have become a favourite for me in about 7 or 8 months of the year.

    I mentioned Woolovers in an earlier post today and strangely enough I got there latest spring / summer catalogue in the post today,it has a 'collared jumper' 30% silk 70% cotton for £35,basically a long sleeve polo with a ribbed waist,some pretty awful colours but at that price I might try the navy one.
     
  10. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    O'Connell's in Buffalo, New York, a trafitional men's clothing company, make an excellent product. Their polos:
    http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Pima-Cotton-Pique-Polos/

    No cable knit long sleeve cardis but I can attest to their cardigans' quality:
    http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Scottish-Lambswool-Cardigan-Sweaters/

    Anyway if the ol' American 3/2 sack style jacket is your speed, they are THE cream of the crops.
     
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  11. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    In many situations a polo might look daft with a blazer, but for instance a white long sleeve Smedley and a blue blazer looks good with khaki chinos and burgundy loafers.

    I might wear a long sleeve navy Smedley with this, faded jeans, and some snuff colored suede playboys in a very casual "down the bar" situation:

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    Woolovers Aran sizing is on the generous side. Same as on their countryman sweaters. There is a small label tab down the side. Quality is good though.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2016
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  13. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Thanks for the info on O'Connell's @Botolph - I see they ship internationally but at $45. They do look very nice polos...

    My own Fred Perry collection is very small, mainly because I am not a big polo wearer today.

    [​IMG]

    Clockwise from top left:
    Black FP x Comme des Garcons SHIRT ss 2004 from Choice Design Wear at Lakeside. Little-worn as I feel the zip and the slim cut make it less than wearable today but superb finish and fabric; Made in Portugal.

    Navy FP in a Smedley style from 2008 ish and Made in Italy also from Choice. Very wearable with cotton trousers, jeans and even dogtooth trou. Starting to show its teeth a bit with some colour loss on the collar. It's the largest one at 42" but not too large.

    Newest addition and unworn the blue FP x Nigel Cabourn from End. Clothing has a lovely feel and is cut more like a golf polo. It should have a long life; Made in Portugal.

    Black MiE via la Rinascente, Palermo in 2015. Does not have the great feel of the new one or the Comme IMO. Been worn once, I think. This is cut 'just right' I would say.
     
  14. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    On the contrary, i have much more polos than shirt. Old habit...

    I wonder, maybe it's one of the bigger difference between 'originals', and 80s adopters of 'The look'. I remember (at least here) that BD shirts where not very common, but everyone was wearing FP. Maybe an uniformization of 'the look' at the time. I'm sure it was different in other places, but still, even in England in the 80s i think you saw more Fred Perrys (and T-shirts) than BD on the majority of skinheads. (I'm not speaking of the 90s scene and what follows.)
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2016
  15. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Some very nice clothes ( and the AE Macneil in brown ) on that site,the New Old Stock section was interesting,and the choice of colours in the knitwear was good.
     
  16. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Yes I have done the long sleeve polo with a blazer,my long sleeve polos are Hugo Boss in pima cotton with a 'higher' collar than a Fred Perry.
    One thing that people were saying on the Gentlemans Gazette was that they couldn't see why if it was hot enough for a short sleeve polo that you would wear a jacket ? surely that would be the same with a short sleeve BD and a blazer or sports coat ?...
    I would wear a blazer and a short sleeve polo in the hot weather here or a summer holiday in Europe in certain situations.
     
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  17. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I cant comment on the 80's,but in the early 70s here it was BDs much more than Fred Perrys,however when 'skinhead' styles started to be worn here again in 1977 Fred Perrys were worn with Harringtons and jeans or Sta Prest much more,I am guessing that is partly because BD shirts were not in the shops then and the BD style although mainstream in America was not here,so it was easier to buy Fred Perrys.

    Interesting that you have more polos than shirts,I seem to wear polos more than shirts now (LS types in winter), I think that society dresses much more casually in most situations now,maybe that's why I am drawn to 'Streetwear and Denim' rather than 'Classic Menswear' ?.

    I think that skinhead / suedehead always had 2 components...streetwear,jeans,boots,Harrington etc and the smarter clothes,suit,tie etc for going out on a night time.
    Remember that at this time there was a much more rigid dress code in night clubs for instance.
    Certain items would cross over between streetwear and smart, Crombies, Sta Prest ?, Brogues, plain BD shirts.
    Now though I seem to be wearing a polo shirt and Harrington in a lot more situations,with Paraboot Michaels and jeans as my 'streetwear' or with Brogues and wool trousers for a slightly 'smarter' (for want of a better word) look...obviously not in situations where a collar and tie should be worn.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Yes i think that apart the more 'sussed' ones (i'm thinking for example about Tom and his friends, who managed to get hold of deadstock Ben Shermans late seventies and who dressed very close to 'originals') the majority of late seventies/early eighties 'skins' wore more FP than BDs, as you say probably because it was easier to buy FP, that were everywhere and wore by a lot of youths, not only skins or mods. And they were very cheap at the time, an important factor.

    In fact i wear more polos than shirts for plenty of reasons. Because i'm not obliged by my job to wear a shirt and tie, and simply by taste, and practical reasons like ironing (if you hang a polo right no need for that), etc.
    And as you say society dresses much more casually now.
    About the polo and blazer combo, this is classical men's staple here (and in Italy). Of course you have to take care about color and material combinations, but it's a very basic look, that is appropriate in the majority of situations and that can be very smart IMO.
    I prefer to wear polos with not too formal jackets (like cord, cotton, linen, and more than often 'natural shoulder' type), but you can achieve a very smart look with a formal blazer and a high end long sleeve polo like the Eidos Lupo (Italian) that seems to have the favor of some trendy posters of the CM section.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2016
  19. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Senior member

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    I have a load of polos, short and long sleeved. Mostly Lacoste, which I find are better quality and as I only got them on sale, better value than the few FPs I've acquired. I'm absolutely not interested in any charv or hoolie connotations which didn't really spread across the Atlantic anyway. For me they have the finest weave which works better in this hot climate, and in the great debate about whether or not to button the top button you can leave the top button on a (properly fitting) Lacoste open and the collar will still lie as if it was closed. Best of both worlds. The fit is a bit boxy for me but now you can get a slim fit, or a lot of mine I've had the sides taken in.
    I used to wear them a lot under a blazer, especially if I was flying on a business trip as the long sleeves keep you warm on a frigid plane and the blazer can be carefully stashed in the overhead bin and later recycled into a business outfit with shirt and tie. More recently I've started to become irritated with the way a polo collar slides down beneath the collar edge of the blazer for an unflattering look, so I've broken my previous taboo on button down shirts and acquired a couple. I'm now on the hunt for the perfect popover shirt to fill this niche, which might just be formal enough to look great with a blazer, casual enough for air travel, with a collar that stands up under a jacket.
     
  20. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Would the polo collar slide down if you did the top button up ?, I usually keep all the buttons done up unless its very hot ( unlikely here).
    I bought a Lacoste in the early 80s on holiday in Portugal it was genuine and very expensive but the quality was excellent,unfortunately a couple of years later there were lots of fake ones here.
    I said that I wouldn't get any more check button downs but I have seen a Ralph Lauren madras one that I like the look of so maybe I will have a rethink.
    I cant remember seeing popover shirts in the shops here but they are on the Brooks Brothers website,maybe they would be worth looking at ?.
     

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