The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Sounds like Brooks Brothers would be favourite,I checked them out but they seem to be double the price here !,they have a sale at the moment maybe I will have time to go to the shop in Regent street.

    I always used to wear a watch but my failing eyesight means that its easier to pull out the phone and check the time (nice big display) rather than put on glasses to check watch,anyway I carry the mobile everywhere.
    I am not a fan of the mobile phone as a lot of people use it,eating their food with a fork whilst holding the phone in the other hand and staring at it intently,I wonder if they take it on dates ?.

    BTW I know that you like brogues,I quite liked the Mark McNairy longwing in black grain leather and now its half price £169 at East Dane,I believe East Dane is something to do with Amazon but I am not sure also not sure if the sizing is US or British.
     


  2. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Exactly my thoughts when I was going to buy one ,I didn't know what I would wear it with,as you say too many looks too avoid,Don Estelle,Ice Cold in Alex,big game hunter and I think that Jason King wore one too ?,so I chickened out a shame because they are a nice jacket.

    I always used to get a Silvermans catalogue sent to me as I bought a few items from them,must be an interesting place.

    BTW I liked the watch in your picture with the tan strap,is it an old one ?.
     


  3. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    My favourite bit of military kit is the Russian B4-7 gas mask,we have his and hers versions but that's really for another forum.
     


  4. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     


  5. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Yes, I'm not quite sure how old - probably early 1950s. It was a present from Mrs K a few years ago. It is Auguste Reymond.

    I like because it's so versatile with its gold colour face and the silvery case.
     


  6. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I know very little about watches ( and lots of other things ),so I go purely on look and that one looks good IMO.
    Some of the modern battery ones with a retro look are ok but the older wind up ones look classy to me.
    I suppose that you can buy an old one and then put a decent new strap on it.
     


  7. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Just red about a conference called 'Subculture international: the global circulation of style', that was held in University West London last june. This is the presentation of :

    Arrondissements and Arrow Shirts: 1960s Paris and the Minets. Peter Hughes Jachimiak (University of South Wales).

    This paper is concerned with the Minets, who – according to Farid Chenoune’s A History of Men’s Fashion (1993) – were ‘Mods á la francaise’. The earliest stirrings of the Minet style was to be detected in 1962, in-and-around Le Drugstore, a café boutique on the Champs- Elysées frequented by youths from the city’s most prestigious high schools and colleges. Thus, unlike their British counterparts (who were working-class with middle-class aspirations) the Minets – raised amid the comfortable confines of well-to-do Parisian families – were resolutely upper-middle-class. Meanwhile, Eric Musgrave, in Sharp Suits (2009), noted that the ‘style provider’ for the Minets was the tailor Renoma. Utilizing patterns imported from England, Renoma introduced angular-framed, three-button suits that were fitted to the extreme. Adopting a concave template from the shoulders to the waist, a narrow- chested, boyish ‘pagoda’ silhouette was thus ushered in. As such, throughout this paper, particular attention will be afforded to subcultural circulation of style, space and place, and their relation to issues of class and gender.
    With a penchant for all things English, the Minets could be seen flaunting this upper-middle- class-ness through the wearing of such narrow-shouldered three-piece suits in grey or brown flannel or navy-blue serge, houndstooth hunting jackets, and crest-pocketed, double-breasted
    blazers (worn with diagonal-striped club or regimental ties). On their feet were the most exclusive of English brogues and loafers (cherishing such traditional shoemakers as Church’s, Weston’s, Bunting and John Lobb). Thus, having adopted such a ‘Frenglish’ style, the Minets could be understood to exemplify – as this paper will make explicit – the international flow, and local configuration, of subcultural styles, fashions and identities. By 1965 this Frenglish style was broadened out even further with the Minets’ adoption of US Ivy League fashions: A truly Anglo-American style, this so-called ‘Kennedy look’ was a clear example of worldwide processes of subcultural transmission and exchange which this paper aims to explore.

    Nothing much to say about what is written, except maybe that i think the Drugstore crowd (and the so-called Minet style) is born with the Champs-Elysées Drugstore in 1960 (remember, that bunch already used to meet on the Champs, at the 'Français'), and that Church's were more considered by the Minets (that were not all from the upper class, i remember my older brother spending his wage on his first suit: a Renoma of course) as 'old man shoes' as they made the younger looking JM Weston loafer their emblematic shoe, like for example the Royals were the skinheads shoe of choice. The Ivy league style was called here 'Kennedy look' as early as 1963 i think.
    Frenglish (Fiendish ?) is a rather funny term. [​IMG]
    It would be interesting to have the full text. Maybe they will publish it.
    I know about Farid Chenoune's book, Mr Knightley mentioned it a long time ago on the Mod to suedehead thread and i borrowed it at the public library (great book BTW, very Frenglish as it shows how our two rival countries influenced each other on style since at least the 17th century), but i've never heard of Eric Musgrave's Sharp suits. Did some of you read that book ?
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015


  8. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    Don't much look at the streetwear and denim side of things but I was intrigued by a thread called SW&D Theory that sets out to explore the basics. Wow does it feel odd, very synthetic and forced with the basic driver apparently being to imagine yourself as a fictional character then developing a look around that - sounds like cosplay to me. Can't say I ever imagined myself as something then dressed to that - I *was* something and dressed appropriately. It was in my background somehow, not manufactured. Deduced not induced. Anyone else feel the same about this?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015


  9. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Just a quick update on the LONDON MEET-UP.

    I had a look around yesterday and spotted two possible meeting places:

    The Cock Inn
    27 Great Portland Street on the corner of Gt Portland Street and Margaret Street. (just north of Oxford Street in Fitzrovia)

    The Clachan
    Corner Lt Marlborough Street and Kingly Street and tucked away just behind Liberty.

    The Cock seemed to have great potential being close to the action but just off the beaten track but at the moment it's being refurbished.

    So, unless anyone objects I propose the Clachan at 1230 on 31 July.

    I'll put a picture up before the meet and their website link.
     


  10. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Quote:I love the Chenoune book. It's almost too precious and I am half afraid to open it now. They fetch up to £500 a go on Amazon today. I have not read Sharp suits. One thing I would also take issue with in the paper is the assertion that British Mods were all working class. Some were middle class with working class aspirations! I need to look further into cov's post and the other thread he mentions.
     


  11. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    ^ great, so Oxford Circus tube then a stiffener in the Argyll. My planning is done!
     


  12. skinny legs

    skinny legs Senior member

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    I concur. Anyone with any sense of self just develops their own look naturally. Perfectly natural to watch a film and think, that cricket jumper would go well with a particular blazer etc, but can't say I've ever woken up with a strong desire to model myself on John Candy in Uncle Buck, or anyone else for that matter
     


  13. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Quote:In around 1976 a former friend of mine started what has become a very successful shop or small chain of shops in Chelmsford called Zagger. He was always instructing people how to dress in a Zagger Look. Then that meant spending a lot more on clothes than you were used to - early Armani, PRL and Paul Smith pieces predominated. I always argued that I wanted a 'Mr Knightley' look that he (and others) could help me achieve. We never saw eye-to-eye on that point and, of course to his credit he has over time persuaded many men and women to swallow his look whole.
     


  14. Soul Vision

    Soul Vision Senior member

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    Agree with that, while I don't like Paul Weller's newer music he has tried to update himself in the suit department and for that I give him respect. You can go a little wider and fuller and still look good IMO.
     


  15. skinny legs

    skinny legs Senior member

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    Im glad the fad for really short, tight suits appears to be waning- as purveyed by Dermott OLeary and the rest of the X- Factor cretins.( Norman Wisdom Gimp Suits)
    In a moment of weakness I almost nearly succumbed to getting a couple of items shortened. Bleeding glad I didn't. Ps don't suppose many on this forum are influenced by current fads, however jackets Im seeing on display in bespoke tailors are much broader in lapel size than recent offerings
     


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