The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

    Messages:
    2,377
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2010
    Location:
    Aveley,Essex
    

    Decent Fish and Chips iin the West End - about as rare as Hens`Teeth Clouseau...:)Some of the Pub Grub is not bad.
     


  2. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Likes Received:
    1,007
    Joined:
    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    Paris
    [​IMG] Go for the Pub Grub then...

    I found some 'new' material on the Minet subject. I think this thread may be more appropriate than the 'Mod to suedehead' one.
    Let me know if some of you are interested.
    They are recollections of several 'Drugstore' originals. I would only (try to) translate what i think are the most interesting parts...
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015


  3. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

    Messages:
    2,377
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2010
    Location:
    Aveley,Essex
    

    Always interested in the Minet Material,Clouseau.
     


  4. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Likes Received:
    1,007
    Joined:
    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    Paris
    This is quite interesting i think, as it's the story of the beginning of the so-called Années Drugstore.
    As usual, rough translation, and only the most relevant part. This could be an introduction to the posts i wrote a few years ago on the Mod to suedehead (page 883) thread about the Drugstore gang (or crowd).


    From the Français to the Drugstore. 1956-1962

    1956. A bunch of mostly wealthy kids (who loved Elvis, Bill haley, Cochran, Fats Domino, The Platters, The Teddy Bears, etc) meet in the Français, a Champs-Élysées café. They are soon called 'la bande du Français'. In 1960 the first Publicis Drugstore opens on the Champs. The kids have grown, most of them are around sixteen, they move there and establish 'La bande du Drugstore', a very select group. People first call them the 'Marinas' (Marina is the name of the tailor who at first made their bespoke suits, they used to bring him the material). They have very long hairs (much longer than the Beatles who will only come a few years later), and their enemies call them 'Marinettes"... They wear fitted MTM suits : Jacket with 2 pockets on the left & shoulder pad, club tie, oxford BD, flares, JM Weston loafers and Ray Bans. Sometimes they put some of their GF make up ! They look the dog but they are not the kind type. Their reign is absolute among the followers of fashion. They only have one thing in mind : find the best party for the evening. Then, they come in gang to the party without invitation. Sometimes they fight, they may rape too. When they leave for another party, it's usually after they have stole what they could find and ruined the flat... Some of them are wealthy, but they always need more money to buy new clothes at a place that will soon be called Renoma. Some are involved in tobacco & arms dealing...
    The Drugstore lad is disreputable. He is a master in the 3-3-2 dance. He dances in line only with the gang's girls. They are beautiful, threatening, and free minded...

    Testimonies
    We were looking for the lighter side... Lightness as an art of living !

    We were going from a party to another on our scooters. We were free, knights of fun and future... A few years later, after the scooters came the cars...

    We were rivals but friends. You had to be at the good moment at the good place with the good clothes and the good people...

    When i saw them the first time. .. Such a look and elegance. It was a very elitist gang. They were different. So different...

    Some were rich some were skint, some were French some were strangers, some were straight, others were juvenile delinquents or even famous gangsters... We didn't give a damn. The important thing was to be part of it.

    We find our clothes were we could, sometimes at the flea market. Polo necks, cardigans, American BDs coming from NY, tie & tie bars, flannel trousers, not a lot of jeans- they were rare. The must have was the Weston loafer. Renoma took his inspiration from us, later opened his first store and launched his brand.

    In 1962 some of us were already moving on. Our little brothers took the following, people began to call them "Minets"...
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015


  5. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

    Messages:
    1,726
    Likes Received:
    377
    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
    Interesting stuff Clouseau,it always fascinates me how a 'Look' starts,who decides what is going to be part of the 'Look' and what is not ?.

    Different now because we are all free to decide our own individual style,but a group doing something is interesting,and when things change how do they decide to move their style on ?.

    The Italian Paninaro also interests me for the same reasons.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015


  6. covskin

    covskin Senior member

    Messages:
    986
    Likes Received:
    576
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2014
    Location:
    England
    ^ I think constraints are required

    Financial - a limited wardrobe produces a limited look (eg: jobless 80s skinheads producing a stripped-down look)

    Social - adopting of items worn by a different caste (eg: punks adopting the bondage gear of the suburban pervert)

    Communication - local development is protected behind a barrier (eg: happening events not being propagated on social media)

    There may be more, but what financial, social or communication constraints really exist these days? Anything goes, so it does, so it is meaningless. Just look at the effects of the lack of a constraining colour or pattern sense on the look of the typical #menswear iGent lol
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015


  7. skinny legs

    skinny legs Senior member

    Messages:
    214
    Likes Received:
    101
    Joined:
    May 5, 2015
    Location:
    Wimbledon, London
    I'd like to put something to the test. I reckon if a dozen or so well known people in the party/ nightclub world, in say London- decided as a laugh to all wear those crew neck brown or green army jumpers-.with shoulder and elbow patches....I think a mini look could still be developed organically. Having spent 30 years around the Soul, Jazz, House going out scene I've witnessed many style fads, some spread out whilst others stayed within the party crowd. If we all pull on an Army Jumper for the piss up, whilst simultaneously buying shares in Millets, this time next year well be millionaires!
     


  8. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,840
    Likes Received:
    2,643
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    

    Good points!

    But thinking about the early drugstore crowd, on the face of it those constraints would have been less obvious. They were generally well off, well connected and clearly aware of US and English brands.

    What about the paninaro look? Anyone have any info? I was an avid reader of L'Uomo Vogue in those days but regrettably no longer have them.

    The Look goes on...
     


  9. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,840
    Likes Received:
    2,643
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    
    Let's put that on the Agenda for 31 July!
     


  10. covskin

    covskin Senior member

    Messages:
    986
    Likes Received:
    576
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2014
    Location:
    England
    

    Well they seem fairly transgressive of constraints on rape and robbery so I suspect there is something they are kicking against - a French disdain of non-French music and clothing? Weren't the paninaro lot into American influences too, McDonalds and the like. All I can remember is their furry hoods.

    Just did a google images on paninaro and to be honest it looks too heterogeneous to be a look unless it was about bright colours or labels.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015


  11. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

    Messages:
    2,377
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2010
    Location:
    Aveley,Essex
    


    I have just given mine away........:)
     


  12. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

    Messages:
    2,377
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2010
    Location:
    Aveley,Essex
    

    I will be picking your Brains Sir........:)
     


  13. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

    Messages:
    1,726
    Likes Received:
    377
    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
    I agree that financial restraints will emphasise a Look as the less clothes that you have what you wear becomes almost a uniform,in the late 60s early 70s people didn't have as much as now and you knew what your mates were going to wear,buying something new was a bit of a talking point.
    However that doesn't seem to apply to Minets or Paninaro,who were apparently from richer backgrounds,that may partially explain the dilution of the original Paninaro look from Timberland boots,Levi 501,Alpha jackets, as they were wealthier they could afford better ie Armani,Schott sheepskin lined fling jackets and expensive Italian items plus American clobber.

    Availability would be a factor too,I am guessing but maybe Minets fixed on Church shoes rather than any other expensive English make as Church were available in Paris.
     


  14. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,840
    Likes Received:
    2,643
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    This is the wiki take on the Paninaro:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paninaro

    I guess the images on google could be of the later, more diffused look that spread around major European cities. The Milan originals probably wouldn't recognise these brightly coloured copies.

    I am not sure of the real link between these and the Paninaro (the original page has been taken down) but they are lovely socks:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2015


  15. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

    Messages:
    1,840
    Likes Received:
    2,643
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    The Look in high summer. How do you cope with the oppressive heat and humidity (the UK had its hottest July day on record this week) and still retain your cool?

    Check out this week's Friday Challenge on Office Casual.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by