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The Look goes on...

Mr Knightley

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I've seen it but I'm still in two minds about brogues, my recent scotchgrain Astronauts fill that space for me.



DAKS has a very distinctive cut, with often slightly quirky details, that seems to fit me perfectly. After my recent good fortune with the stone Aquascutum and the scotchgrain Astronauts, my one remaining object of desire would be something like a DAKS Crombie

Alfred Sargent you say, I don't think I ever posted a photo of these, my most formal shoes

View attachment 1486901
That is a fine pair of shoes, @covskin

This is a great example of The Look moving on. Back in 1969 / 70 Oxford shoes would not have been considered suitable footwear. We only allowed ourselves a narrow range of shoes - mainly from John Simons shops, of course. Today the Oxford works perfectly at the more formal end of the styles we wear now.

Brogues - I am not as keen on them right now. I had my Florsheim longwings refurbished at the end of last winter, put them in storage and there they remain. I do have a couple of pairs still in my rotation - Church's Diplomats in black, a half-brogue and the 'James Finch' by Cheaney, a heavy winter brogue with Dainite soles.
 

Kingstonian

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That is a fine pair of shoes, @covskin

This is a great example of The Look moving on. Back in 1969 / 70 Oxford shoes would not have been considered suitable footwear. We only allowed ourselves a narrow range of shoes - mainly from John Simons shops, of course. Today the Oxford works perfectly at the more formal end of the styles we wear now.

Brogues - I am not as keen on them right now. I had my Florsheim longwings refurbished at the end of last winter, put them in storage and there they remain. I do have a couple of pairs still in my rotation - Church's Diplomats in black, a half-brogue and the 'James Finch' by Cheaney, a heavy winter brogue with Dainite soles.
Oxfords would have been seen as old fashioned. In the 1970s they gained acceptance, possibly as a reaction to the stack heel monstrosities that were around at the time.
 

Luigi_M

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DAKS has a very distinctive cut, with often slightly quirky details, that seems to fit me perfectly. After my recent good fortune with the stone Aquascutum and the scotchgrain Astronauts, my one remaining object of desire would be something like a DAKS Crombie
On the same theme, here's another DAKS suit, from e-bay too but this time preloved and for a mere £ 45. I must say that the previous owner used it very sparingly, if ever. Only alterations were:
- turnups completely let down.
- trouser hem narrowed a little
- moved jacket buttons to make it a little more fitted (the beauty of the double breast is that, if you need to slightly slim out a jacket, can do this by yourself this way).
I should get the sleeves lenghtened though.

20201030_141504-1.jpg20201030_141553.jpg
20201030_141819.jpg

Consider that both this suit and the one (and newer) I posted a couple of days ago are labeled a size 40R, yet this one has a fuller cut all around, and has more structure, with even higher waist trousers. It's a better quality too, with full canvas and horn, Savile Row style buttons.
I could not say which one I like better: both have pro's and cons.
And yes, all goes on ...
 

covskin

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On the same theme, here's another DAKS suit, from e-bay too but this time preloved and for a mere £ 45. I must say that the previous owner used it very sparingly, if ever. Only alterations were:
- turnups completely let down.
- trouser hem narrowed a little
- moved jacket buttons to make it a little more fitted (the beauty of the double breast is that, if you need to slightly slim out a jacket, can do this by yourself this way).
I should get the sleeves lenghtened though.

View attachment 1487185View attachment 1487186
View attachment 1487190

Consider that both this suit and the one (and newer) I posted a couple of days ago are labeled a size 40R, yet this one has a fuller cut all around, and has more structure, with even higher waist trousers. It's a better quality too, with full canvas and horn, Savile Row style buttons.
I could not say which one I like better: both have pro's and cons.
And yes, all goes on ...
One for the Italian CBD thread!
 

Kingstonian

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On the same theme, here's another DAKS suit, from e-bay too but this time preloved and for a mere £ 45. I must say that the previous owner used it very sparingly, if ever. Only alterations were:
- turnups completely let down.
- trouser hem narrowed a little
- moved jacket buttons to make it a little more fitted (the beauty of the double breast is that, if you need to slightly slim out a jacket, can do this by yourself this way).
I should get the sleeves lenghtened though.

View attachment 1487185View attachment 1487186
View attachment 1487190

Consider that both this suit and the one (and newer) I posted a couple of days ago are labeled a size 40R, yet this one has a fuller cut all around, and has more structure, with even higher waist trousers. It's a better quality too, with full canvas and horn, Savile Row style buttons.
I could not say which one I like better: both have pro's and cons.
And yes, all goes on ...
Is double breasted currently popular in Italy?

Jacob Rees-Mogg is the most famous current UK wearer. His suits are on the fuller side although he is not a big-framed individual.
 

Luigi_M

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Is double breasted currently popular in Italy?

Jacob Rees-Mogg is the most famous current UK wearer. His suits are on the fuller side although he is not a big-framed individual.
Not particularly popular. I happen to like double breasted, but it's not easy to find a nice one for the right amount of €€€ (i.e., for me, very low).
Mr. Rees-Mogg definitely has his own peculiar style!
 

covskin

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Thank you too!
I guess my rig might be Italian in the (pretentious?) sprezzatura of the brogues with a classic suit!
Also pinstripe and brown tie - classic Italian CBD/Italian Industrialist look!
 
Last edited:

Luigi_M

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Swampster

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Wondering if this might interest you:

Yes, Crombie material coats from Daks and others seem to crop up quite often on ebay.
Always best to see the label though - I recently bought a coat with 'Crombie' in the description but the label had nothing about it. I bought it anyway as it was cheap and I liked the look of it. Trouble was that the size was also incorrect - they hadn't photographed the label at the collar which was in cm and didn't convert to anything like size in the the description. It has been returned.
 

Luigi_M

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E-bay might lend you good deals but it's necessary to double and triple check anything.
Sizing is a thing, as @Swampster points out: always better to check actual measurements and, if in doubt, ask the seller to take the ones we need.
Another - specific to this case - thing: 'Crombie' might mean the style of the coat (mods here all too well know what this means) or the cloth. In this last case, at least one of the pics in the ad should show the label. In doubt, better again ask the seller the specific question.
 

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