The Look goes on...

[Botolph]

!!!

Makes me wonder what band t shirt I'd wear now. It would definitely be a white one, black t shirts are grebo.

Exactly. I do have a couple black shirts but only if black is the only option. Although it falls outside the scope of this forum, I have a small-time band on the side and we refuse to make black t-shirts. Friends have resorted to making one-off Shirts for themselves because it’ll never happen “officially”. ?

 

[Mr Knightley]

Picking up the point about the orphaned suit jacket, I think @covskin is right. It’s one of a number of things that had never really occurred to me - certainly not irked me - until I started hanging around menswear forums. Others include the yellow tie, odd navy trousers, single jacket vents...all of which I still wear but sometimes feel a need to apologise for them ?

 

[Thin White Duke]

Picking up the point about the orphaned suit jacket, I think @covskin is right. It’s one of a number of things that had never really occurred to me - certainly not irked me - until I started hanging around menswear forums. Others include the yellow tie, odd navy trousers, single jacket vents...all of which I still wear but sometimes feel a need to apologise for them ?

Haha NEVER APOLOGISE NEVER EXPLAIN!

I don’t know how those ‘rules’ evolved but I comply with some and ignore others.
I think odd jackets should look odd.
I can’t stand piss yellow ties.
I own a couple of navy odd strides and while you ought to tread carefully there’s no reason why they can’t be incorporated and look just fine.
I have very few vents on any of my jackets but no single / center /hooked vents. The fact that I get most of my vents closed no doubt violates the SF rules along with the fact that most of my lapels lean slim.

 

[donkeyjacket2]

I finally had chance to wear the new blazer on my Formal-ish Friday this week. Quite pleased with the fit and feel so far:

View attachment 1440801

View attachment 1440802
Tie - TM Lewin // Square - T&A // Shirt - CT // bespoke trousers // Barker Northcote

Very smart Mr K.

 

[Mr Knightley]

Very smart Mr K.

Thanks mate. I appreciate that ?

 

[donkeyjacket2]

Thanks mate. I appreciate that ?

was thinking about buying a similar suit off ebay i like that double breasted style but got no space in my room anymore, think i will stick with my 70s suit for now.

 

[Luigi_M]

I like a single vent on sporty / tweed jackets and don't pass on a suit I otherwise like just because it's single vented.
I never have been able to feel at ease with no vent at all, though.

 

[Swampster]

I like a single vent on sporty / tweed jackets and don't pass on a suit I otherwise like just because it's single vented.
I never have been able to feel at ease with no vent at all, though.

I'm pretty much the same. I'm not quite built like a National Express hostess, but ample enough that the tails need freedom to adjust.

 

[Thin White Duke]

I like a single vent on sporty / tweed jackets and don't pass on a suit I otherwise like just because it's single vented.
I never have been able to feel at ease with no vent at all, though.

My aversion to vents may have been a nod to the eighties and nineties jacket styles. I like the way they hug your bum and I don’t like to see side vents either gaping or the centre part between the vents flapping around behind your arse like a pair of half-drawn curtains in front of an open window on a windy day!

Also when you watch classic films vents weren’t in vogue much back then. Sorry if I mentioned this before - I remember Kirk Douglas in ‘Out of the Past’ wearing broad shouldered DB jackets with a huge expanse of unruffled cloth from his neck all the way down. More recently Cary Grant’s famous NXNW suit and Connery’s silver sharkskin at the Junkanoo in Thunderball are two of my favourite ever suits and they are ventless. I don’t think I was copying them by closing my vents, more likely using them after the fact as an example of ventless done well.
I never put my hands in my pockets so the utility of vents means nothing to me. There’s a scene in Casablanca in the office above Rick’s where Humph turns his back to the camera and hikes up his ventless jacket to put his hands in his pockets and we’re presented with his arse which is an unfortunate consequence of going ventless.

 

[Kingstonian]

My aversion to vents may have been a nod to the eighties and nineties jacket styles. I like the way they hug your bum and I don’t like to see side vents either gaping or the centre part between the vents flapping around behind your arse like a pair of half-drawn curtains in front of an open window on a windy day!

Also when you watch classic films vents weren’t in vogue much back then. Sorry if I mentioned this before - I remember Kirk Douglas in ‘Out of the Past’ wearing broad shouldered DB jackets with a huge expanse of unruffled cloth from his neck all the way down. More recently Cary Grant’s famous NXNW suit and Connery’s silver sharkskin at the Junkanoo in Thunderball are two of my favourite ever suits and they are ventless. I don’t think I was copying them by closing my vents, more likely using them after the fact as an example of ventless done well.
I never put my hands in my pockets so the utility of vents means nothing to me. There’s a scene in Casablanca in the office above Rick’s where Humph turns his back to the camera and hikes up his ventless jacket to put his hands in his pockets and we’re presented with his arse which is an unfortunate consequence of going ventless.

Ventless - done well - can be fine.

Unfortunately the last time they were in vogue was on the sort of suit worn by Sergeant Troy in ‘Midsomer Murders’ a boxy, three button job. Inspector Barnaby always had crappy suits that were too big for him. I think that was deliberate. His suits did have vents though.

I have a nice ventless Donegal tweed jacket that I got in Ardara which I still like to wear. Also have an old M&S ventless suit that never gets worn at the back of the wardrobe.

 

[Botolph]

The fact that I get most of my vents closed no doubt violates the SF rules along with the fact that most of my lapels lean slim.

Nought wrong with slim lapels, especially if it suits the wearer, such as yourself @Thin White Duke
What has been irking me in the past years is the new(Italian/Neapolitan?) trend of the ultra-wide lapels coupled with a gorge that seem to start at the back of the shoulder. To me it seems like FAR too much lapel, and no collar! That look just strikes me as wildly out of proportion!
The argument that a gorge that hits below the clavicle might look dated can certainly ring true, but I think there’s going to be a charity shop purge by all the igents when the trend comes back down a bit.

 

[Mr Knightley]

My aversion to vents may have been a nod to the eighties and nineties jacket styles. I like the way they hug your bum and I don’t like to see side vents either gaping or the centre part between the vents flapping around behind your arse like a pair of half-drawn curtains in front of an open window on a windy day!

Also when you watch classic films vents weren’t in vogue much back then. Sorry if I mentioned this before - I remember Kirk Douglas in ‘Out of the Past’ wearing broad shouldered DB jackets with a huge expanse of unruffled cloth from his neck all the way down. More recently Cary Grant’s famous NXNW suit and Connery’s silver sharkskin at the Junkanoo in Thunderball are two of my favourite ever suits and they are ventless. I don’t think I was copying them by closing my vents, more likely using them after the fact as an example of ventless done well.
I never put my hands in my pockets so the utility of vents means nothing to me. There’s a scene in Casablanca in the office above Rick’s where Humph turns his back to the camera and hikes up his ventless jacket to put his hands in his pockets and we’re presented with his arse which is an unfortunate consequence of going ventless.

Of course, dinner jackets are (usually) ventless. I like the clean line that a lack of vents produces.

When it comes to hands in pockets, in Cary Grant Style by Richard Torregrossa it is suggested that CG spent ages perfecting the art of putting his in his trouser pockets, so that it looked natural. Perhaps he was also trying to avoid revealing too much arse, being acutely aware of the perils of the ventless style.

I think, picking up @Botolph ‘s point about current lapel styles, it is best to try to always steer a middle path - staying away from anything too staid/dated and anything too fashionable.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Of course, dinner jackets are (usually) ventless. I like the clean line that a lack of vents produces.

When it comes to hands in pockets, in Cary Grant Style by Richard Torregrossa it is suggested that CG spent ages perfecting the art of putting his in his trouser pockets, so that it looked natural. Perhaps he was also trying to avoid revealing too much arse!

I think, picking up @Botolph ‘s point about current lapel styles, it is best to try to always steer a middle path - staying away from anything too staid/dated and anything too fashionable.

Yup spot on.
Cary Grant himself said in that long interview he did on his own style that he wasn’t aware of trying to be fashionable at all he just avoided extremes and thus was able to skate through decades without ever being on the cusp of fashion trends and yet always looking cool and stylish.
I’ve got two blog posts cooking up. One about jacket vents and another about the way we are pushed to extremes. After 20 years of sausage skin suits I can see that ‘they’ couldn’t possibly just moderate towards a happy medium so the coming trend is going to be loose, baggy, multi-pleated and sloppy. I’m not having it myself! Glad my wardrobe is full so I won’t feel the pinch.

 

[Luigi_M]

I never put my hands in my pockets so the utility of vents means nothing to me.

I have the (bad) habit of keeping my hands in my pockets. Only while in the military I managed to consistently keep them out (NCO's yelling like mad at this helped a lot).
Thus I need vents and, besides, I like them. I had a single suit unvented in the magic nineties but I don't recall it gladly. On windy days the loose jacket and trousers made me look like a pole with a flag waving from.

I'm not afraid about fashion reverting to 'Miami Vice-like' suits. I'm just old enough to stick with my current style and I never got anything with extra wide lapels or sky high gorge.

@Thin White Duke , I look forward to the two posts you are cooking. Let us know when they are online.

 

[covskin]

Imitation, the sincerest form of flattery

Baracuta/Peter Millar/501 stf

#noloafers#notever