The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Some nice looking longwings on the Jigsaw site,made by Sanders in Northampton in black grain leather ,maybe the toes too rounded ?.
     


  2. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    Coat looking good on him to be fair at Japanese War Memorial twenty years since his mother Diana visited.

    [​IMG]
    Apparently he will be working as an air ambulance pilot shortly which is good to hear despite my hatred for the Royal Family as an institution.
     


  3. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    Cerneabbas, yes waistedness is important in a crombie/chesterfield. An influence from the waisted cutaway/tail coats of morning dress and evening dress maybe? Think a club collar (fairly pointy not cutaway) would be fine.

    Baggycasual, the only time double-breasted works is on an overcoat in my opinion, and then only if you have the frame for it (as in this case). Double breasted + full lapels is a bit too military for me though.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015


  4. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Yes he does look smart but that coat is too much like a military greatcoat in style for me,plus you couldn't really dress casually in it.

    A couple of other points about the picture,is he wearing brogues ?,don't like his tie knot the Japanes blokes tie knot is better but he looks like the iron was too hot on his polyester trousers.
     


  5. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    I think he just about gets away with it, I think it helps in his case being quite tall. Maybe a different colour trouser would have looked better?
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015


  6. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I sometimes think that it looks better if the coat is darker than the trousers,but in this case if he would have worn lighter trousers he might have looked too casual for a visit to a war memorial ? I think it looks ok for someone in his position.
     


  7. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    If you blow the picture up you lose some definition but I would say they are Oxford brogues.

    What don't you like about his knot? It is nice and asymmetrical (probably a FiH) and the Japanese guy's is a rather boring Windsor.
     


  8. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Picking up the point about tie knots, what was typical of the Look back in the day?

    In my area it was a four in hand exclusively and, although I have flirted with a semi-Windsor since, and others, I always come back to the FiH.

    I was reading a piece about our friend Lino Ieluzzi and in the interview he claimed to tie his tie without looking in the mirror for that extra bit of Sprezz! Do we believe him...?[​IMG]
     


  9. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Half Windsor for me,I like the symmetry of it,I like it to be fairly small and I tend to pinch the bottom of the knot in,the other thing it lets me do is to leave my top shirt button undone and when I pull the tie knot in tighter it doesn't show ( that the buttons not done up).
    I know that some people frown on the Half Windsor or the Windsor for various reasons but I have always been happy with it and I feel that it fits in to the Look.

    I had a look around at other pictures of the Prince and you are right he does seem to favour Oxford brogues,I suppose that in his position he has to be very careful about what he wears or he will get criticism from someone in the media.

    Yes I can believe that the Italian bloke ties his tie with his eyes shut,its that sort of intentional 'carelessness' that I find a pose.

    Since mentioning Crombie type overcoats the other day I have been having a trawl around the internet,I found an informative piece in The art of manliness about the types of overcoat,origins and how they should be worn,the Princes is apparently called a Paletot. .
    Apart from the Cordings Covert coat in navy I haven't seen anything yet that takes my fancy,the Crombie is the best but as was said it couldn't be worn in a casual way,if I do buy a coat it will have to be versatile.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2015


  10. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    1. Ain't the whole thing with the tie's knot about complimenting the wearer's shirt collar and face? A windsor probably suits your build and I assume you wear spread or cutaway collars normally?
    a. Would you wear a half-windsor with a buttondown collar?
    I. For the record, I'm a four-in-hand man.

    [​IMG]


    That's the cavalry twill Crombie above. Defo not a casual option. I have a navy Crombie short Covert Coat that I've worn with jeans, lighter colored brogues, and a buttondown that looked refined but not too dressed up. I think you can get away with it due to navy being a versatile color. Of course, as with anything , it depends on what you pair it with. I mean, I wouldn't throw on a t-shirt, ripped jeans, and beat up Converse All Stars with it! But then again, I doubt anybody reading this would commit such a crime:)
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2015


  11. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I always tie a Half Windsor,yes with a BD or any other shirt that I have worn,I think that the Windsor is too big ( for my liking) .
    To me the Half Windsor looks 'sharp'.because its symmetrical I suppose.
    I do agree that it would have to suit the shirt,I have never owned a shirt with a cutaway collar,I hadn't thought about the tie suiting the face shape.

    That's a nice Crombie but as you say for smart wear only,as I want to one for casual wear as well I agree that navy is the colour to go for,I have some tan brogue boots that I could wear with it.
    BTW,did we ever mention the J M Weston 590 in our brogue discussions on the other thread ? I would say that it looks pretty much the ultimate brogue in a non longwing style.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2015


  12. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    Maybe I was hasty in saying that the tie should suit the face... I guess it's more that the tie should fill the negative space under the collar nicely, and the collar should compliment the face, so: face>collar>tie.
    I think I'm just jealous because I just can't pull off a Half-Windsor-- though the shape certainly is symmetrical and pleasing to the eye. [​IMG]

    With the navy Crombie, the velvet collar isn't as apparent, so again it's a more versatile option. They really are beautiful coats.

    Interesting info on the different coats and their respective histories.


    That "sprezzatura" action with the tie... It just seems like a bunch of eyeties who are bored of the limitations of wearing suits and saying "sod it!". [​IMG]
     


  13. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    Always been the schoolboy knot for me (ie: four in hand), usually with an aversion to doing up the top button. Sadly I was one of those idiots that pushed the boundaries at work before business casual was even heard of, now look at the state we are in.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2015


  14. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  15. cocostella

    cocostella Senior member

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    Chavy or an ok casual twist on revivalist?
    Rugby (long sleeve)
    Pegged 501
    Suede chukka (leather sole vs desert boot)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2015


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