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The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I saw something interesting today,I wanted a pair of braces to wear under my v neck jumper as I think belt buckles show through the wool and look unsightly.
    Anyway I went into Next ( I only go in there once or twice a year honest ! ) and I noticed that they are doing 3 button suits,they had a couple that I saw one was puppy tooth check,jacket was a bit short and crap material.
    When I Iooked online they also have 3 button wool suits with 2 different length jackets,a choice of pleated or plain front trousers for £140,now I realise they wont be very good ( although the pictures looked ok,surprise surprise ) but what I am wondering is does this herald a mainstream return for 3 button suits ? it has to happen sometime and hopefully it will bring with it the 3 button patch pocket blazer.
    I didn't get any braces they all had a metal clip on the crossover at the back which would show through the jumper as bad as a belt buckle,so if anyone knows where to find 4 clip braces in navy blue about 25mm wide and sewn together rather than a metal or plastic clip please don't keep it a secret.
     


  2. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    Problem with three piece suits at the lower end of the market is that the waistcoat will be skimpy and the trousers low rise so the waistband and possibly some shirt will be exposed.

    Solution is to use a traditional tailor like Ede and Ravenscroft but it might be too sober for some.

    Braces might show through a light sweater. Thurston button braces would be my preference over clip ons.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  3. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    I don't know what kind of money you're looking to spend, or if you're into the 3/2 roll sack type jacket, but J. Press has excellent stuff(though I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir) All three of their lines(Presstige, Pressidential, and Pressclusive) are fantastic. Well-made, if very traditional clothing... but if worn right looks dynamite.
    Here's a 3-button patch pocket blazer with a hook center vent: http://www.jpressonline.com/classic-trim-fit-blazer-flannel-wool-midnight-navy-3b/
     


  4. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    I was recently in Paris as some of you might have read in the other thread. I'll be honest I've never been fully into 'the look' just nicked bits of it here and there as really it was before my time. Even when Casual was coming to an end I was probably not even in my teens. Anyway just some partially interesting anecdotes from my recent travels. In Paris saw a very slim Asian lad probably in his 20's wearing a Stone Island jacket, longish in khaki - not typical I thought, maybe these days it is? Didn't notice anyone with 'the look' or fancy dress but overall smarter and tidier than London. Probably with the exception of shoes, surprisingly I thought more people in Paris than London wearing trainers these days - but mostly decent ones though. Lots of Adidas, Stan Smith is popular in particular. However, apart from me no one going the whole way with a Casual look. For the record I was wearing Lacoste trainers, Lois cords, a decent polo or shirt with optional roll neck and a Baracuta. I thought I looked pretty good, at least respectable but who knows. It wasn't until I got back to London, the Underground specifically that I saw someone (Asian) sporting a 'WAYWN' look from this very forum. What I mean by that is skinny jeans, t-shirt, short stylized leather jacket. My first reaction naturally was, you stupid cunt. To me there is just something inherently wrong about it. It's not a look that has any lasting qualities, it's fashion pure and simple. It only stands out in London because well London is London if you know what I mean. It's an American look but it's also poncy and obvious you're trying to look like the height of fashion and now but really you just look like a total fucking knob. On the other hand the Italians in London don't fare much better with their sportswear bottoms and sportswear jackets - puffa jackets seem popular again albeit not so puffy. It's a kind of miserable, drab sporty look lacking everything that was flash and exciting the early Casuals wore. bright colours, foreign brands, limited availability etc.But to me the Italians still have an overall better look than the fashion victims of 'WAYWN'. I don't know how or precisely why they just do. Maybe because they're not trying to hard. Or they just have a better body shape or fit. If I was a real Casual I would have taxed that kid's Stone Island but as a fake I let it go ;) And besides I don't even like Stone Island.

    I forgot to mention the general Paris look is a lot slimmer than London this isn't particularly to do with clothes but the food situation. The French not only eat better than us lot, the quality of food is miles better and not so fully of crap. This generally makes them look better in clothes, less bellies and generally slimmer across the board.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2015


  5. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    Interesting observations baggycasual. I wonder what it was that stirred the waters that is lacking now (I don't think prosperity has anything to do with it or we would be in an even better state now). Rather it seems we are back in pre-war times when father and son dressed alike, only not in the expected direction. A sort of entropy, dissolution not formation, that I am guilty of myself.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015


  6. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    I think less and less people think let alone worry about being smart. This is especially what I dislike about American mainstream looks. When I say smart I don't mean wearing a suit or formal gear. I mean not looking like a scruffy waste of space. You can be smart in Casual gear or anything really. It can be something simple like having your socks on properly, your shoes clean and tidy, This is what really annoys me about wearing t-shirts as fashion or a look. I would never dream of going 'out' wearing just a t-shirt. It's beyond casual. The only time I ever wear a t-shirt is either under other items of clothing or during that couple of weeks in summer we get in Britain when it's fucking boiling and I'm walking my dogs in the country where a couple of cars might pass me by on the off chance. Even though I'm not of 'the look' I would and have never left the house without thinking what am I wearing and how do I look, am I smart? I think sections of most generations have this. Whereas I think most things are related to class I don't think this one is particularly. More to do with upbringing.

    Just to add, there's a London Mod in the Casuals documentary that says something along the lines working class youth (in particular) want to look better than they are. Well I agree with that but I also think they don't want to copy or emulate the wealthy or grossly rich. It's always been about adapting. Wealthier or rich people I find either dress like shabby cunts or go for a gawdy designer look. The working class styles have never gone this way as far as I know. So there is some connection to class. Also, remembering my mum she would never even let me out the house looking scruffy of God forbid dirty in anyway! So, yeah it's family upbringing and a class/society thing I reckon.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015


  7. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    p.s what's the score on gloves, colours, materials etc ? Need some new ones.
     


  8. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    I agree there was a class component (the eschewing of anything approaching a Country look for instance) but I think the 80s get in the way of your class-based analysis - prior to that decade nobody was much into 'designer' (if that concept even existed). During and after it seemed everyone was into it - Casual staples like Sergio Tacchini and Diadora were certainly perceived in that way and for top-end Casual the brands were either traditional upper middle like Burberry/Aquascutum or designer nouveau riche like YSL/Moschino with French Connection/Benetton as a mainstream.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2015


  9. baggycasual

    baggycasual Well-Known Member

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    By gawdy designer I mean wealthier/people on the make wearing any old expensive shite regardless of quality or fit often with gold or silver prominent and more than obvious logos (perhaps this is more of a post 2000 thing?). As I explained to a foreign friend on the tube as there was a south east Asian lad wearing a Burberry scarf with the label showing i.e it was the wrong way around his neck. I made the point that it was vulgar and not something ordinarily English people would do. To top it off he was neither well dressed nor smart. He was probably an international student from a wealthy family. To give more credence to this theory, there were some other similar lads with Oxford College sweatshirts on.
    I had some great YSL polos - the best I've ever owned but I certainly wasn't nouveau riche! There's always exceptions [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2015


  10. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Some good posts lately.

    Noticed lots of guys in Essex adopting elements of the Look this winter. Last evening I parked in the multi storey car park and the bloke next to me in a new BMW M thingy stepped out wearing some very expensive and slightly flashy stuff. Longish brown leather jacket with a striped scarf wrapped round his neck about six times in the current vogue, jeans rolled up very short above some nice brown boots (not DMs) and a definite swagger in the walk. He was around 60 so could well have been an original skin and the overall effect was not unpleasing.

    Talking of the Casual movement, I have also noticed a resurgence of the Stone Island sweater with dark jeans (Armani, Boss, etc.) and immaculate designer trainers look. It is becoming a uniform again in my area and, if you are 20s / 30s I think is a great casual look.
     


  11. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    The suit is sold as separate trousers/jacket/waistcoat so having a 3 piece is not compulsory,I was out with the GF and we went into a larger Next and I tried on the 3 button jacket,I had to go up a size but its not a bad fit,the shoulders are too padded for my liking but the GF really liked it on me and she knew that I wanted a 3 button suit so she bought it for me.She had to order the trousers online,again I went up a size,they arrived and are slightly big in the waist but the next size down would not have fitted and they are a bit too long for my taste ( £9 to have altered locally ).
    So for £149 a wool 3 button suit,would I recommend it ? well no,but it is probably value for money and to be honest I wont wear it that much,so probably a reasonable buy for these days.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015


  12. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    That is a very nice blazer,the only thing that I don't like being the flaps on the patch pockets,just my opinion but they should be "flapless",some very good looking clothes on that site.
     


  13. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I agree with a lot of your observations,people don't care ( and probably are unaware ?) about being scruffy,I think that girls have gone downhill in this country leggings ( with holes in ) tights with massive ladders,scruffy,grubby ill fitting clothes on (mostly) overweight slobs...sorry to be so harsh but I think that's the truth, ( not all girls ).

    I think though that you are using the word Smart in 2 different ways
    1.Smart as in well dressed a suit and tie etc
    2.Smart as in not scruffy
    I don't want to be picky but maybe 2 should be groomed or tidy ?,I understand you but I don't think that for instance clean expensive trainers,a clean designer pair of jeans and polo shirt should be classed as "smart",its a casual look but I see a difference between that and someone wearing grubby trainers,shapeless jeans and a faded polo,this being the scruffy Brit that I see all too often.
    I agree about the T shirt,should be worn as a "base" layer under other clothes (it was originally underwear),or practically ( sorry Mr K) going to the beach or after the gym (definitely at the gym), the polo is my compromise for casual wear and "smart" (2) enough these days,obviously clean and ironed for those on here,let the others do as they please.
     


  14. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Mr Knightley,You surprised me once before when you mentioned liking Monkey boots,now its designer trainers !,I agree with you on both,even now I ( very) occasionally wear Monkey boots with jeans (no turn ups) and because of their low profile the boots are only ever mentioned by some ex skin saying "f... me,Monkey boots where did you get them ?".
    As for designer trainers I know that many people (mainly older but some young ones too) who lump all trainers as gym/running shoes that just should not be worn in a non sport context, I disagree I have 2 pairs of Hugo Boss trainers ( they call them Sneakers) which are purely a fashion shoe,if I wore them to the gym or for running they would be wrecked after one session,and I would be hobbling about for months.
    I feel that the Boss trainers with a nice pair of jeans ( again some people would dispute the difference in jeans,to them all jeans are workwear) a nice polo shirt with a v neck or Harrington is a tidy casual look that could be worn as day wear on most non formal occasions.

    Stone Island,now this is one designer that I don't / wont buy,its the image that the people who wear it seem to want,the wannabe tough nut,the clothing equivalent of a pitbull or tattooed forearms, now this is my perception and maybe I am hypocritical as a former Bull terrier owner who is tattooed everywhere except forearms,but Stone Island isn't for me.

    However the rest of the look that you mention is my choice at the moment,Boss trainers,Boss or Armani jeans,Boss long sleeve polo,M+S or Lyle and Scott v neck and/or a Harrington.
    Alternatively in a slightly different twist on Casual,plain Derbys ( Loake Waverley) or boots ( Loake Kempton ),Farah frog mouth hopsack trousers,long sleeve polo,v neck and/or Harrington

    Lyle and Scott,another brand that the Chavs devalued ( again IMO),I try to find the deadstock ones with the logo in the same colour as the item or on the arm,that Yellow eagle on a navy or grey jumper really puts me off,and I am not keen on their polos for the same reason.
     


  15. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    I recognise that Stone Island/designer jeans look. Yes it does look decent but, for all the interesting texture, it is a bit monotone black-grey to my eyes - or am I just not recognising the more colourful stuff? Wouldn't wear any of those brands personally though, that's just me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015


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