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The Look goes on...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Mr Knightley, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. Fruitbat

    Fruitbat Senior member

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    I don't ever remember seeing Farahs at football.
    Or the wearing of shoes as opposed to trainers circa early 80's.
    Thinking about it, in between those leather safari coats that were popular in 81- normally burgundy with belts- and the Ellesse ski coat look a couple of years later- I can't remember many coats being worn at all; roll necks under v- necks were the order of the day.
    Cue our Mums and their mantra- I can't believe your going all that way up North without a Nanny Goat- Your bleeding mad the lot of you![​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  2. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I remember Farahs being worn with shoes but I will be honest and say that I cant remember which shoes.
    I do remember Kickers being worn,not by me though !

    Coats and jackets, patchwork leather headovers ( horrible), Adidas cagoules ( I had a light blue one),I saw Ma1 worn with Casual clothes ( even A Chelsea lad at an England away game ),expensive leather bomber / biker type jackets,later on Peter Storm full zips with packaway hood ( still got mine,navy blue)...as you say the Ski coats.

    The thing that I dont remember seeing much ( if at all ) was a full tracksuit,tracksuit jacket Ellesse,Fila,and Sergio Tacchini ( I think ) and very light blue Lee jeans or cords is how I remember it or jeans / roll neck / V neck.

    Mostly Adidas trainers with a very few Puma,thats down here and now all the old fart 'Casuals' and the young want a be a 'Casual' only wear Adidas.

    Just though of another jacket,the Burberry golf one usually in Stone but they did have Navy ones,I couldnt afford one then.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  3. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    On a slightly different tack, but with still a nod to Ivy, another thing I picked up at the charity shop yesterday was a digitally-remastered copy of 2001: A Space Odyssey, which I still think of as Stanley Kubrick's finest film. This time, while I watched it, I paid a lot more attention to aspects of design than previously. I was reminded that the rather sober suits that blokes wore in the Space-station/Clavius part of the film were actually rather good, almost Ivy League in many ways, but very sharp. Hardly surprising, as they were all by Hardy Amies. I have managed to garner a few stills below, and I think they even managed to make Leonard Rossiter look kind of cool!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sorry some of these are very small.

    I have become partial to the checked suit worn by the 'official photographer' at the conference. You'll notice that the sobriety of the outfits is enhanced by the fact that the colour of the shirts are coordinated with that of the suits, but then that effect is off-set by the small brooch at the throat-fastening. There was a vogue for the latter in about 1967/68, or at least an attempt to introduce them as an alternative for the tie. It didn't catch on, but the costume designer for 2001 seemed to think it was the right touch for the movie.
     
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  4. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Senior member

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    Spot on with this. I know Weejuns are seemingly almost sacrosanct but the ones I've seen recently are cheap and plasticky looking. I have seen some Westons up close and while I'm not a huge fan of loafers I wouldn't mind owning a pair one day as they look the be very well made. Haven't seen MIA Weejuns.
     
  5. AngryYoungPoor

    AngryYoungPoor Senior member

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    I was lucky enough to find a pair made in the US in immaculate condition in a charity shop a few years age. I do agree that the imported numbers are rubbish. If I wear through my current ones I'll probably just bite the bullet and spring for a pair of Alden's or Rancourts.
     
  6. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    I owned a pair of JM Weston 180 penny loafers in suede (supposed to be more fragile than leather) that i kept more than 20 years and had a lot of wear. They are almost at the top of the scale of Penny loafers IMO in terms of construction, leather quality, comfort, etc.

    In order (and only considering brands famous for their loafers - among other shoes for some of them, and still alive - Dexter, for example, did good Pennies in the time) from bottom to top (the same for the price) i would say :

    First group

    Bass Weejun

    Sebago

    Cole Haan

    Allen Edmonds

    Second group (one step ahead)

    Church's

    C & J

    JM Weston

    John Lobb

    Alden (Shell Cordovan, i would put the calf leather model under Weston)

    This is a non exhaustive list of course...
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  7. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    On a side note, i never saw Rancourts pennies 'in the flesh', but they seem very nice indeed.
    I owned Westons, and Cole Haans that were quite good, but didn't last more than 7 or 8 years.
    One of my big regrets are 'ready to wear' John Lobb loafers, a limited edition, they sold at a reasonable price (for John Lobb) around 20 years ago. Unfortunately didn't had much cash at the time...
    Pennies are on my wish-list at the moment...
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  8. covskin

    covskin Senior member

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    I remember it, from the outside, as rollneck, v neck, light blue jeans or rollneck, tracksuit top, light blue jeans until about 1984 when rollneck, v neck, tracksuit bottoms (adidas I think, with a single line of white piping across the back of the calf) began to appear. Farah trousers were in there somewhere as well. For trainers I remember Nike (white with blue or red thing), Diadora (white with blue or brown thing) and adidas gazelle (in all sorts of colours) too.

    This all coexisted with a Burberry raincoat-type look, seemed like an older lot, that wasn't as noticeable so I didn't notice it as much! I think maybe they were the Farah trousers lot. Lots of talk about charge cards at Nicklebys (a designer menswear shop), etc.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  9. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    I hope that Tom Mc666 weighs in-- I believe he had said he went Casual in the early to mid '80s, and of course rolled with some faces in that scene. Might be able to shed light on the style subject, having come into it from the skinhead/suede/mod side of things.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I have been thinking more about this post and I have to admit that those coats / jackets were worn over a long period,probably 10 years !
    My memory is not bad on some things but timescale isnt great,but with the aid of my football match programme collection ( sad bastard that I am ) I can narrow some dates down if I can remember certain clothes being worn at certain games..
    The Peter Storm jacket that I still have must have been early 90s.
    The Ma1 that i remember the Chelsea lad wearing was in 87 in Germany and I was wearing a Navy one too.
    Adidas cagoule 83 / 84
    Patchwork leather headovers ???? mid 80s maybe ?
    Ski jackets 84 ?
    Various leather jackets worn right through the 80s.
    As Fruitbat said though for a period it was mainly just a V neck without a jacket ( what if it was raining ?), I suppose as well at football there was a lot of 'cross overs' in style,some blokes (me included) wearing bits of Casual kit with other non Casual clothes.

    As we have said before not all of it could be worn now,wouldnt want to wear all of it,but an Argyle V neck with Farahs and Plain shoes or Loafers and a short raincoat perhaps would be Casual inspired maybe and still within 'the Look' imo.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  11. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    I think that the important thing with Weejuns is good quality leather uppers and being well made,imo the sole could be thin as I wouldnt want to walk far in them anyway.
    I am also not a great fan of Loafers,imo they show to much sock ( I know that they are supposed to).
    Although the top shoe makers make Loafers and they are probably good quality I just couldnt justify paying a lot for Loafers,all down to each individuals personal preference mine is for a heavier lace up and even more so for a boot,but a Loafer would be better in warm weather I admit...
     
  12. Fruitbat

    Fruitbat Senior member

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    Very acceptable combo above IMO.
    A look I'm considering, is the slacks, cashmere jumper, possibly Gucci horsebit loafers ensemble.
    Almost a bit too colour co-ordinated- a bit Andy Williams Xmas special- Monaco middle aged lounge lizard.
     
  13. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Does anyone know where Hardy and Johnson trade from?
     
  14. Kingstonian

    Kingstonian Senior member

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    ^. Hardy and Johnson work out of a house in Putney near the Half Moon. They run the business on Facebook
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

    You could go down the second hand route, but some people only want to buy new stuff.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    All sounds good,I have worn something similar.....Loake Pimlico brown leather chukka boots,air force blue Farah's,light grey polo,Navy lambswool V neck,I could have worn the Cognac Bass Weejuns instead if I didnt despise them so much...brought 2 threads together nicely there !
    I probably should have worn a more colourful polo,green or red perhaps,the ones with a shirt type collar.

    The item that I really need to do a look something like that is a Blazer ( instead of the V neck) I want one thats quite versatile so it could be worn with jeans or with wool trousers and Brogues.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Gant BDs.
    I have been looking for a Pink BD for a while,I noticed that Gant had some,most with a nasty big logo on the chest pocket.
    I recently saw one on E bay,new with tags and the logo in pink,ok I dont like the logo but I can live with it,being long sleeve it will usually be under a jacket,cardigan or V neck anyway.
    I bought it and it arrived yesterday and I am quite pleased with it,the Gant shirts that I have seen in the shops here are made in China but this one says made in India and the shirt feels heavier like the material is more substantial,it seems quite well made too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    double post
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2016
  18. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    We had a Gant shop on Newbury Street here in the Hub for a few years and it seems they have some lines which have the logo, or some who carry the tonal embroidered "G" in a diamond either below the bottom button on the placket or on the inside of the vent near the cuff(left or right, I forget).
    I dug some of their shirts, but beware of the fit. The Rugger is a slim one, the Hugger is skinny one, then I believe there are one to three ADDITIONAL fits. I'd say try the U.S. site even if to glean fit information.
    Another thing about Gant is that you have to be Alpha sized. S, M, L, XL, etc. is what a lot of their shirts come in. I'm a 17/34 and most of their shirts that come close to fitting my neck have 36" sleeves! Buying+tailoring to shorten sleeves ain't worth it to me.
    I always check where clothing is made(just a habit), and I also noticed the made-in-India items had a more robust weight. During the summer they have or had Indian bleeding Madras shirts.

    Pretty good quality clothing, Gant.
     
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  19. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    I saw some GANT madras BDs in the shops last summer, they looked good indeed.
    I intend to try one their BDs, if i can find one without the logo...
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  20. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Reading about Gant they must have been really good in the 50s / 60s, so it says they were the first BDs to have a button on the back of the collar and a locker loop,all the details that were so important to us in 70/71 but I hadnt heard of Gant until a few years ago....imagine if the internet had been available back then !
    Yes the ones with the tonal G are the Diamond G,available here for £80 ! the one that I bought is a Gant Academic ( ahem) and they are also £80,I got this one for £40 including postage and I think thats about right.
    Strange that the made in India seem heavier material,it would be good if Gant did a made in USA special ala FP,Adidas,Slazenger....mind you I dread to think of what those shirts would cost here.
     
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