• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
Have been thinking about the Real McCoys 30s sport jackets. Does anyone here own one or has anyone tried one on?

Interested in either the Nelson (MJ19115) or Mobster (MJ20118) model.

Would love to hear thoughts in terms of style preference or fit.

Nelson:
View attachment 1590484
Mobster:
View attachment 1590485

I'll copy the comment I made recently to another forum member who asked about the Mobster:

"I did try the mobster, in a size 44 I believe. You can see my initial comments on it here. My opinion of the leather has since changed, as I have learned more about horsehide and leather tannage in general, but my impressions of the pattern remain. As I commented later in the thread, as you scale up in these jackets the body and arms grow wider more than it grows vertically, so it ends up looking kind of awkward. In particular, the sleeves on the 30s / Mobster, being button cuffs, hung very awkwardly. on me, while the body kind of made me look like I was wearing a flattened barrel. Obviously part of this is because the leather is stiff and not yet broken in.

That being said, I found the Grizzly flattering on me in a 42, just too short in the arms. I have a 44 in the A2, I wear a 42 in jackets, 44 in jackets that run small. So, if you have a shorter torso and arms, then the mobster may work for you in your size, which I believe is a 42."

I'll add that I'm probably swinging by the Armoury tomorrow to check my impressions of the fit on the Mobster and The Grizzly (although like I need the temptation).
 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
Not the season for it, but there's a new RMC peacoat on Marrkt in a 42:

1618015579198.png

 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
Anyone know where I can get a similar US Navy HBT utility jacket w/o the stenciling (still uncomfortable with that as a concept). I think real mccoys had something like that but in a herringbone twill.
View attachment 1590133

I started searching Yahoo Auction Japan for "n-3 jacket" but no luck. I saw evidence that Real McCoy's did have a non-stenciled version, but I couldn't find any available. Edit: https://standardandstrange.com/coll...3-utility-jacket-olive?variant=32038146539597

You could see if Standard & Strange can order another non-stenciled version for you, although it is herringbone, as you noted.


Also there's this: https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/coats-jackets/products/brycelandssafarijackethbtolive

I'm getting to the point with this repro fetish that I'm veering toward being ok with stenciling and other military insignia on my jacket, in violation of what ethics I have.

I guess Rambo wore flair on his Japanese reprowear.
 
Last edited:

bry2000

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
10,039
Reaction score
8,998
I'll copy the comment I made recently to another forum member who asked about the Mobster:

"I did try the mobster, in a size 44 I believe. You can see my initial comments on it here. My opinion of the leather has since changed, as I have learned more about horsehide and leather tannage in general, but my impressions of the pattern remain. As I commented later in the thread, as you scale up in these jackets the body and arms grow wider more than it grows vertically, so it ends up looking kind of awkward. In particular, the sleeves on the 30s / Mobster, being button cuffs, hung very awkwardly. on me, while the body kind of made me look like I was wearing a flattened barrel. Obviously part of this is because the leather is stiff and not yet broken in.

That being said, I found the Grizzly flattering on me in a 42, just too short in the arms. I have a 44 in the A2, I wear a 42 in jackets, 44 in jackets that run small. So, if you have a shorter torso and arms, then the mobster may work for you in your size, which I believe is a 42."

I'll add that I'm probably swinging by the Armoury tomorrow to check my impressions of the fit on the Mobster and The Grizzly (although like I need the temptation).
Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?
 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?

From what I've seen, 30s style jackets are short in the torso and can trend toward boxy. That was certainly the case with the Mobster when I tried it on, which has the added factor of having arms that were quite wide. I have seen that some offset this by sizing down. So if you are on the shorter side this could be an option if looking for a more modern fit, such as below.

1618023703950.png

Note this photo is for the same style by a different maker.

I did not try the Nelson (I don't believe the Armoury is stocking it), but based on measurements and a little research it appears to be slimmer in the chest and possibly arms than the Mobster but similar in length.

1618023961308.png


1618024014716.png

Note the second photo above is deerskin.

Btw, if you haven't seen it there is a TFL thread on the Nelson: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-real-mccoy’s-joe-mccoy-nelson-30’s-sport-jacket.103712/

I don't think the 30s models are any more Fedora-tipping than what we here in the Japanese Repro thread have already committed ourselves to. Personally, I like the belt loops on the Mobster. I imagine these cuts worn with high-waisted, full-cut pants, as above, but obviously they can be incorporated into more modern fits, especially if sizing down in the Mobster or going with the slimmer Nelson. I maybe wouldn't pair them with skinny jeans.

I did not try the Bucos, but can do so tomorrow. I'm not opposed to moto style jackets, but it's definitely more of a modern, slim, Self-Edge kind of look.

Note that the Mobster, the Bucos I saw and I believe the Nelson, have a serge lining that is indicated as wool but basically feels like cotton jersey.
 

upsett1_spaghett1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2021
Messages
1,257
Reaction score
2,658
Not the season for it, but there's a new RMC peacoat on Marrkt in a 42:
For staples like a peacoat I buy out of season all the time, I know it will get worn a lot so if it's what I like why not if the price is right? I think everyone should buy a legit wool peacoat so if this one fits someone they should cop it. Forget about the seasons.
 

Mghart

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
1,715
Reaction score
2,059
Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?
The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.
 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.

What makes a “30s style” jacket, you think? Button cuffs? Closed zipper? Use of deerhide due to scarcity of other leathers during the Great Depression? I would assume a boxy fit, but as you’ve noted the Nelson is slimmed down. That period photo above also appears trim.
 

XWT

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2018
Messages
1,280
Reaction score
1,780
Imo if you want a black 30´s jacket like the Mobster, the superior option is the Freewheelers Mulholland. The pattern is absolutely beautiful. Order your usual sportcoat size. That is, if you find one.

I really wanted to love the Mobster, but W is right : it’s very boxy (perhaps too much so). Add to this the fact the belt loops are non sensical, I wouldn’t put too many efforts in chasing one, despite how beautiful I think it can look.
 
Last edited:

Mghart

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
1,715
Reaction score
2,059
What makes a “30s style” jacket, you think? Button cuffs? Closed zipper? Use of deerhide due to scarcity of other leathers during the Great Depression? I would assume a boxy fit, but as you’ve noted the Nelson is slimmed down. That period photo above also appears trim.
I suppose I’m only specifically referring to sport jacket or cossack styles that were a short hip length hem, button cuffs, slash pockets and with or without a chest pocket. I love the look of the old Sears Roebuck jackets like the Hercules or similar styles like the RMC Nelson. These kinds of jackets and A2s are the only ones I think I could pull off. I’ll never be a CR or DR person. There’s a few other aviation styles I like a lot though like this one

9B0E24AC-5554-4067-8D5C-F5B8DF965A3A.jpeg
 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
Imo if you want a black 30´s jacket like the Mobster, the superior option is the Freewheelers Mullholland. The pattern is absolutely beautiful. Oder your usual sportcoat size. That is, if you find one.

I really wanted to love the Mobster, but W is right : it’s very boxy (perhaps too much so). Add to this the fact the belt loops are non sensical, I wouldn’t put too many efforts in chasing one, despite how beautiful I think it can look.

I've seen discrepant measurements on the Mulholland between Corlection and Speedway. The former has the arms being too short while the length is comparatively long.
 

whorishconsumer

King Douche
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5,834
Reaction score
7,231
@bry2000

Here's a picture of the Joe McCoy "Wayward" sports jacket from a 2010 issue of Free & Easy. Based on these pictures from TFL, it appears to have been a similar model to the Nelson, but without the side tabs. As you can see, fairly slim fit.

Free & Easy 121010 RMC Nelson.jpeg
 

moktabe

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
23
Reaction score
31
Pointless asking a sensible question here.

Unless of course it entails an endless circle jerk over a ******* leather jacket
 
Last edited:

bry2000

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
10,039
Reaction score
8,998
From what I've seen, 30s style jackets are short in the torso and can trend toward boxy. That was certainly the case with the Mobster when I tried it on, which has the added factor of having arms that were quite wide. I have seen that some offset this by sizing down. So if you are on the shorter side this could be an option if looking for a more modern fit, such as below.

View attachment 1590522
Note this photo is for the same style by a different maker.

I did not try the Nelson (I don't believe the Armoury is stocking it), but based on measurements and a little research it appears to be slimmer in the chest and possibly arms than the Mobster but similar in length.

View attachment 1590523

View attachment 1590524
Note the second photo above is deerskin.

Btw, if you haven't seen it there is a TFL thread on the Nelson: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-real-mccoy’s-joe-mccoy-nelson-30’s-sport-jacket.103712/

I don't think the 30s models are any more Fedora-tipping than what we here in the Japanese Repro thread have already committed ourselves to. Personally, I like the belt loops on the Mobster. I imagine these cuts worn with high-waisted, full-cut pants, as above, but obviously they can be incorporated into more modern fits, especially if sizing down in the Mobster or going with the slimmer Nelson. I maybe wouldn't pair them with skinny jeans.

I did not try the Bucos, but can do so tomorrow. I'm not opposed to moto style jackets, but it's definitely more of a modern, slim, Self-Edge kind of look.

Note that the Mobster, the Bucos I saw and I believe the Nelson, have a serge lining that is indicated as wool but basically feels like cotton jersey.
Thanks for posting this.

I read through the linked TFL thread - very informative. I think the jacket fits the OP very well. The Nelson appears to fit TTS based on that OP's experience and the sizing advice provided by Standard & Strange. A little frustrating, but S&S' measurements differ from those listed on the RMC's website, enough so to cause hesitation. Extrapolating from the OP's self measurements and fit pics, I think TTS may work for me, but with a snugger fit. Too snug - I don't know; enough to size up one - unclear.

Based on the RMC's measurements, the mobster should fit TTS, no doubt.

The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.

Interesting after I just wrote that the Nelson seems to fit TTS, you provide a real life example of possibly needing to size up. To clarify, your typical US jacket size is a 40 and you found the size 42 to fit trim?

I looked up the Freewheelers Mulholland -- also a beautiful jacket. Are there any USA stockists of the brand?

I suppose I’m only specifically referring to sport jacket or cossack styles that were a short hip length hem, button cuffs, slash pockets and with or without a chest pocket. I love the look of the old Sears Roebuck jackets like the Hercules or similar styles like the RMC Nelson. These kinds of jackets and A2s are the only ones I think I could pull off. I’ll never be a CR or DR person. There’s a few other aviation styles I like a lot though like this one

View attachment 1590711
The jacket in the pic is beautiful. I think the appeal of the 30's sport jacket style to me is that it seems to be relatively easy to incorporate into an existing wardrobe. It lacks the moto features which call for denim and boots. I can also see wearing the 30s style with fatigues, regular chinos, etc. I believe the Armoury has styled the jackets with donegal wool trousers, something I could not see wearing with a FCL double rider. But maybe I am wrong. But there is a fine line with this style between cool and boring dad vibes.

I also like the shorter length of these jackets. Many of the motos/DRs I have tried tend to be too long for me.

@bry2000

Here's a picture of the Joe McCoy "Wayward" sports jacket from a 2010 issue of Free & Easy. Based on these pictures from TFL, it appears to have been a similar model to the Nelson, but without the side tabs. As you can see, fairly slim fit.

View attachment 1590738
Cool pic. Thanks for sharing.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 36.7%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 59 39.3%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 15 10.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 26 17.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 26 17.3%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,140
Messages
10,578,729
Members
223,896
Latest member
vocalkeny
Top