The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

[hoodog]

@whorishconsumer

Well, the M65 is an M65 repro after all. I mean, an M65 is not supposed to give off a "luxe" vibe, imho. If you want a luxe M65, then there are plenty of other options out there from CM brands.

I personally like the RMC M65 very much. Searching around the Internet, I've found that there are a lot of people out there that also think it's great. The fabric has a softer hand than the one used on vintage M65s, probably in part because the RMC is 100% cotton while the original is 50/50 nyco. I personally prefer the fit of the RMC version over vintage M65s. Maybe you're right that the jacket might feels a bit "anemic" to begin with, but that might have to do to with the fact that the RMC M65, like all field jackets, are better with some wear and tear on them. The stitching, materials, hardwear and construction is also much better on the RMC compared to vintage.

On the other hand, the RMC M65 is really rubbish in the rain. The all cotton fabric isn't treated or anything, so the jacket soaks up the rain straight away. Also, the lower front pockets aren't as deep as on the vintage M65s, which I would've prefered.

So to sum up. I really like the RMC M65. Would I buy it at retail? Is it worth it over a nice vintage one? No. But if you can find one used at a good price (like I did) I would definitely consider it.

Let me know if there is anything else in particular that you (or anyone else) wants to know.

 

[Clouseau]

Lee Archives seems cool, although not sure if I need exact replica considering Lees tend to be considerably cheaper for vintage if you get something from the 60 or later era. Like I could buy Riders all day for like 40-100 bucks. Unless they use cooler fabrics or whatever! If so maybe I'll look into a stormrider.

RMC had a pretty cool stormrider repro that felt warmer than the real thing. Too bad I can't seem to find it anymore.

Lee Archives are really cool, i find them much better than LVC for repros (especially now than LVC jeans are not MiUSA anymore). Fabric is cool (normal weight, i've also got 21oz Lee 101Z MiJapan but not repros, contemporary), and they age well, here are the pictures of my two pairs, both have the 1952 model shape.

 

[peachfuzzmcgee]

The M65 is 100 percent a piece, I would not buy over vintage. The price is so outrageously different that it just doesn't add up since the details are the same. M65s go for like 25 to 40 dollars on ebay, thrifts, and surplus stores all the time. Fit is definitely a defining factor on those bad boys, but if you wanted a more modern fit getting a repro probably isn't the best when there are M65 inspired clothing everywhere.

Also those Lee's are ******* slick, I wonder if I could find a store that stocks then around me too see how they fit. I need another pair of jeans like I need another hole in my head so I might have to wait though haha

 

[hoodog]

Me in my B6. Love this jacket.

 

[whorishconsumer]

@whorishconsumer

Well, the M65 is an M65 repro after all. I mean, an M65 is not supposed to give off a "luxe" vibe, imho. If you want a luxe M65, then there are plenty of other options out there from CM brands.

I personally like the RMC M65 very much. Searching around the Internet, I've found that there are a lot of people out there that also think it's great. The fabric has a softer hand than the one used on vintage M65s, probably in part because the RMC is 100% cotton while the original is 50/50 nyco. I personally prefer the fit of the RMC version over vintage M65s. Maybe you're right that the jacket might feels a bit "anemic" to begin with, but that might have to do to with the fact that the RMC M65, like all field jackets, are better with some wear and tear on them. The stitching, materials, hardwear and construction is also much better on the RMC compared to vintage.

On the other hand, the RMC M65 is really rubbish in the rain. The all cotton fabric isn't treated or anything, so the jacket soaks up the rain straight away. Also, the lower front pockets aren't as deep as on the vintage M65s, which I would've prefered.

So to sum up. I really like the RMC M65. Would I buy it at retail? Is it worth it over a nice vintage one? No. But if you can find one used at a good price (like I did) I would definitely consider it.

Let me know if there is anything else in particular that you (or anyone else) wants to know.

The M65 is 100 percent a piece, I would not buy over vintage. The price is so outrageously different that it just doesn't add up since the details are the same. M65s go for like 25 to 40 dollars on ebay, thrifts, and surplus stores all the time. Fit is definitely a defining factor on those bad boys, but if you wanted a more modern fit getting a repro probably isn't the best when there are M65 inspired clothing everywhere.

Also those Lee's are ******* slick, I wonder if I could find a store that stocks then around me too see how they fit. I need another pair of jeans like I need another hole in my head so I might have to wait though haha

I think fit is what it comes down to, and that makes or breaks a piece for me. I have never had much luck with army surplus or vintage and so if the RMC were to fit - and I wanted an M65 - that would be its value right there. And I’m a fanboy collector, so it’s not as if I’d turn down the M65 were it given to me.

As for materials, my perception of RMC is that they distinguish themselves in their use of materials. I think stitching as well, as hoodog noted. I’d be interested in comparing the RMC M65 with, say, a Buzz Rickson.

Similarly, after handling the RMC C-2 I’d be interested to see the BR variety, which is over $200 less.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Me in my B6. Love this jacket.

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Looks less bulky than I might expect, compared to the B3. I know the airforce reduced bulk between models. How oppressively warm is it? How’s the feel on the leather?

 

[Ed13]

Great fit pic, I think the B6 is the best looking jacket RMC offers.

Not an option for me as I run hot and the few times I have tried on a shearling jacket it became uncomfortably warm almost immediately.

 

[Mghart]

That B6 looks amazing @hoodog its a real statement piece I think. I probably run to hot to even wear it, but it looks great in pictures.

@whorishconsumer

Interesting to hear your thoughts on what The Armoury had. I don't have much experience at all with leather jackets to be honest outside of stuff I've tried on in stores when visiting Japan. I'd agree though that when they scale up on sizing (and I've found this with clothes as well) is that what we might equate to 'up' on size on a pattern is still very different a lot of the times with Japanese brands.

I remember trying on a similar 30's style sport jacket on my last trip, and while I tried on a size up from my normal size which is generally what I would do, it still felt a bit restricting in certain areas. I also thing if you have longer arms, or are taller, certain patterns or styles make not work as well. I think thats where something like an A2 is a bit more forgiving as it generally works on just about everyone I think.

Outside of that, I do know that all the horsehide they use for their jackets is sourced from Shinki like the other top makers (Freewheelers, Himel, Goodwear,etc) so thats a factor in the pricing as well as just being RMC haha. I really wanted to get a jacket my last trip, but unless the fit is spot on a 2k+ purchase is still not something I wanna gamble on.

 

[peachfuzzmcgee]

One thing I actually really like about RMC jackets is the fact that the body is cropped which is more in line with the vintage styles. I also have a fine creek leathers jacket and even though for many it would be cropped, I always find it so long and I'm a pretty tall guy. Something about denim and leather jackets, I preferred cropped. I like when it hits right around the belt on pants with 12 inch or so rise.

 

[whorishconsumer]

That B6 looks amazing @hoodog its a real statement piece I think. I probably run to hot to even wear it, but it looks great in pictures.

@whorishconsumer

Interesting to hear your thoughts on what The Armoury had. I don't have much experience at all with leather jackets to be honest outside of stuff I've tried on in stores when visiting Japan. I'd agree though that when they scale up on sizing (and I've found this with clothes as well) is that what we might equate to 'up' on size on a pattern is still very different a lot of the times with Japanese brands.

I remember trying on a similar 30's style sport jacket on my last trip, and while I tried on a size up from my normal size which is generally what I would do, it still felt a bit restricting in certain areas. I also thing if you have longer arms, or are taller, certain patterns or styles make not work as well. I think thats where something like an A2 is a bit more forgiving as it generally works on just about everyone I think.

Outside of that, I do know that all the horsehide they use for their jackets is sourced from Shinki like the other top makers (Freewheelers, Himel, Goodwear,etc) so thats a factor in the pricing as well as just being RMC haha. I really wanted to get a jacket my last trip, but unless the fit is spot on a 2k+ purchase is still not something I wanna gamble on.

I was a little reticent to decry the quality of RMC's leather jackets because, as I said, I am not the expert and I'm wary of forum posts by amateurs marring the good name of clothing brands. That being said, my initial impressions were that the leather was a bit thin and brittle and I found the serge lining of the Grizzly and 30s/Mobster to have a nice handfeel but also seem out of place. It just seems like it would deteriorate with wear. However, that is a detail that is likely period-correct.

Regarding the leather, in truth, when I first received my A2 (from The Armoury but I ordered online, before then going in in person anyway, go figure), not having handled an RMC or any horsehide jacket prior, I expected the leather to be a bit thicker. However, even with the caliper measurement being less than anticipated, there is density to the grain. And while the hide is stiff, there is a pliable strength to it where it feels like you can beat it it up without concern. And, of course, the liquor used in the tannage is very fragrant and, together with the rich dye, gives the impression, at least, that the jacket is imbued with a lot. By contrast, my first impression with the Grizzly in particular was, "this needs some Lexol".

But this is where I need schooling on the properties of leather. And thanks for clarifying, @Mghart , re the Shinki - I wasn't sure if that was where they go for all their leather or just for certain jackets, like the A2.

 

[whorishconsumer]

One thing I actually really like about RMC jackets is the fact that the body is cropped which is more in line with the vintage styles. I also have a fine creek leathers jacket and even though for many it would be cropped, I always find it so long and I'm a pretty tall guy. Something about denim and leather jackets, I preferred cropped. I like when it hits right around the belt on pants with 12 inch or so rise.

I don't mind cropped – I'm wearing an A2 presently – but the issue is as you scale up in these jackets the body and arms grow wider more than it grows vertically, so it ends up looking kind of awkward. In particular, the sleeves on the 30s / Mobster, being button cuffs, hang very awkwardly, while the body kind of made me look like I was wearing a flattened barrel. Obviously part of this is because the leather is stiff and not yet broken in, but I would think there might be a way to do more proportional scaling.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Welp, I'm eying an old RMC B3 I just unearthed. Seems like too good to pass up. Only issue is the chest measurement given is only 3" above mine, although the shoulder is plenty accommodating. @hoodog How did you size on the B6, given the pile?

 

[Mghart]

I was a little reticent to decry the quality of RMC's leather jackets because, as I said, I am not the expert and I'm wary of forum posts by amateurs marring the good name of clothing brands. That being said, my initial impressions were that the leather was a bit thin and brittle and I found the serge lining of the Grizzly and 30s/Mobster to have a nice handfeel but also seem out of place. It just seems like it would deteriorate with wear. However, that is a detail that is likely period-correct.

Regarding the leather, in truth, when I first received my A2 (from The Armoury but I ordered online, before then going in in person anyway, go figure), not having handled an RMC or any horsehide jacket prior, I expected the leather to be a bit thicker. However, even with the caliper measurement being less than anticipated, there is density to the grain. And while the hide is stiff, there is a pliable strength to it where it feels like you can beat it it up without concern. And, of course, the liquor used in the tannage is very fragrant and, together with the rich dye, gives the impression, at least, that the jacket is imbued with a lot. By contrast, my first impression with the Grizzly in particular was, "this needs some Lexol".

But this is where I need schooling on the properties of leather. And thanks for clarifying, @Mghart , re the Shinki - I wasn't sure if that was where they go for all their leather or just for certain jackets, like the A2.

I would consider myself the same in that I haven’t handled enough jackets from enough brands to discern differences in hides/thicknesses, but I’m mostly concerned with designs/patterns and then fit with leather being maybe a secondary concern.

I would certainly think as the leather thickness increases then wearability becomes an issue to a degree so I wouldn’t necessarily mind a thinner leather so long as isn’t wasn’t fragile or brittle feeling. I’ve only read about Aeros using CXL horsehide or steer hide requiring a good degree of break in which didn’t really sound pleasing.

I have a good friend who’s had a Buzz A2 in horsehide, an FCL and currently has the RMC red silk lined A2 and a new Himel. I’ll have to ask him what kinds of differences he’s noticed with the respective makers in regards to the hides/thickness.

 

[jmiller123]

This is exactly my situation. I'm waiting on the jacket to arrive. Fingers crossed ...

Let's hope- Please let us know how it goes! Mine probably won't be in for another week or so.

@whorishconsumer

Well, the M65 is an M65 repro after all. I mean, an M65 is not supposed to give off a "luxe" vibe, imho. If you want a luxe M65, then there are plenty of other options out there from CM brands.

I personally like the RMC M65 very much. Searching around the Internet, I've found that there are a lot of people out there that also think it's great. The fabric has a softer hand than the one used on vintage M65s, probably in part because the RMC is 100% cotton while the original is 50/50 nyco. I personally prefer the fit of the RMC version over vintage M65s. Maybe you're right that the jacket might feels a bit "anemic" to begin with, but that might have to do to with the fact that the RMC M65, like all field jackets, are better with some wear and tear on them. The stitching, materials, hardwear and construction is also much better on the RMC compared to vintage.

On the other hand, the RMC M65 is really rubbish in the rain. The all cotton fabric isn't treated or anything, so the jacket soaks up the rain straight away. Also, the lower front pockets aren't as deep as on the vintage M65s, which I would've prefered.

So to sum up. I really like the RMC M65. Would I buy it at retail? Is it worth it over a nice vintage one? No. But if you can find one used at a good price (like I did) I would definitely consider it.

Let me know if there is anything else in particular that you (or anyone else) wants to know.

Cheers, thanks for the response. I think I'll just scourge Y! auctions to see if I can grab one on the low. I've had experiences with both Aspesi and Herno M65's, but sold them both as they didn't quite hit the mark for me. Both were good quality, but they were bought around 50% off..certainly not worth retail.

Me in my B6. Love this jacket.

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This looks great man!

 

[kaizerpi]

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Glad to see this thread as RMC is a brand I'm interested in exploring. Recently tried on this N1 in a size 38 as I wear a medium/48 pretty regularly. I'm 5'9, with a 39" chest. Despite reading online that it runs large and the measurements themselves being quite large, I found the fit to be very restricting. While I think the size looks right from the outside, I couldn't fit more than a tee and perhaps a light shirt underneath as it was tight through the shoulders and arms. I ended up sending it back and am waiting on the 40 to come in- hoping it works out as I love the styling.

N-1's were something I was also really interested in, but agreed they are more tight fitting, which seems accurate based on a few vintage ones I've tried (1950s-1960s). I needed to size up in order to wear one with a sweatshirt.

Glad to see this thread though! I got my first RMC item a few weeks ago, a loopwheeled sweatshirt.