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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

Mghart

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Stopped by Blue In Green today. I spoke with an SA who was pretty cool. She told me they've shifted away from stocking the Japanese repro brands at present because they expose BiG to more risk during uncertain times: brands like Kapital are popular among the hypebeasts, so they've moved to stocking them, but Toys McCoys – which they stocked until recently – does not come with the same assurance of product moving off the shelves. I also have to imagine the minimum buys/cost of initial capital is different. They're apparently considering stocking RMC again in 2022, but it sounds very much in the air. Because of the sort of non-compete agreements that come with stocking these brands, there are politics around transitioning from buying from one of them to another.
Interesting to hear their perspective but makes sense. Streetwear is still a huge market and something like Kapital and other adjacent brands are growing in popularity with that crowd (which is funny because Kaptial has been around for quite some time). My friend who regularly visits Manhatta in nyc has also told me that the owner sells through their Kapital stock rather quick.

I'm not surprised that their just isn't a demand for these niche repro brands. I'd imagine if even shops like SE don't stock them its because the inventory would just sit. It seems brands that have a strong Western/EU presence (I think Iron Heart is the best example of this) really flourish with the denim crowd. I just don't particularly have any interest is most of these brands or whatever slim or straight tapered pants are in right now which is why I haven't really purchased any clothes locally in the US for quite some time.
 

whorishconsumer

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Interesting to hear their perspective but makes sense. Streetwear is still a huge market and something like Kapital and other adjacent brands are growing in popularity with that crowd (which is funny because Kaptial has been around for quite some time). My friend who regularly visits Manhatta in nyc has also told me that the owner sells through their Kapital stock rather quick.

I'm not surprised that their just isn't a demand for these niche repro brands. I'd imagine if even shops like SE don't stock them its because the inventory would just sit. It seems brands that have a strong Western/EU presence (I think Iron Heart is the best example of this) really flourish with the denim crowd. I just don't particularly have any interest is most of these brands or whatever slim or straight tapered pants are in right now which is why I haven't really purchased any clothes locally in the US for quite some time.
I have seen passing reference to RMC demanding large minimum purchases and thereby sinking businesses (Superdenim’s original downfall was attributed to this by individuals in this line of thought). So that is perhaps why SE stopped carrying them. I believe the “non-compete” clause I mentioned above also applies, so because SE carries Buzz Rickson perhaps they’re precluded. Although BiG is carrying Sugarcane.

@kiya could perhaps best speak to why they no longer stock Real McCoy’s.
 
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Mghart

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I have seen passing reference to RMC demanding large minimum purchases and thereby sinking businesses (Superdenim’s original downfall was attributed to this by individuals in this line of thought).
I have heard this as well, and it absolutely makes sense why shops wouldn’t stock them as it’s simply too much of a risk.

It does make me wonder how well shops like S&S manage to move a brand like RMC and if it’s at all profitable for them to stock.
 

kiya

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I have seen passing reference to RMC demanding large minimum purchases and thereby sinking businesses (Superdenim’s original downfall was attributed to this by individuals in this line of thought). So that is perhaps why SE stopped carrying them. I believe the “non-compete” clause I mentioned above also applies, so because SE carries Buzz Rickson perhaps they’re precluded. Although BiG is carrying Sugarcane.

@kiya could perhaps best speak to why they know longer stock Real McCoy’s.
We've never carried RMC at Self Edge, not sure where you heard or saw that. I've been friends with Tsujimoto for many years as he's quite close with the president of Flat Head, but we've never carried the brand. We had the choice of which brand to carry in 2005 and we chose Buzz Rickson; very happy with that choice 15 years later, especially considering we love the way they stand behind their product and conduct business.

On the note of what leather jackets are made in what factories.. I went through some of those links posted a page back and trust me when I say many of those posts are flat out wrong as to what is produced where. But it is true that very few brands actually own the facility making their jackets, Fine Creek Leathers (used to be High Large years ago) is one of them.

The conversation above about "risk" doesn't make sense to me.. there's risk in selling ALL brands, and more of a risk when selling a brand which is hyped and trend based, like Kapital. It's less of a risk selling brands doing high quality repro stuff, that stuff doesn't really go in and out of fashion as quickly as a brand which operates more like a Fashion brand.
 

Mghart

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The conversation above about "risk" doesn't make sense to me.. there's risk in selling ALL brands, and more of a risk when selling a brand which is hyped and trend based, like Kapital. It's less of a risk selling brands doing high quality repro stuff, that stuff doesn't really go in and out of fashion as quickly as a brand which operates more like a Fashion brand.
Perhaps I should have phrased it better as all retail operations are a risk in stocking inventory. Some brands are simply 'safer' than others in the regard.

I don't know whats popular these days at the SE shops, but I always thought that 3sixteen, Iron Heart were big sellers and certainly have a lot of popularity amongst the denim crowd. PBJ would probably be similar I suppose. I guess what I was trying to say is the purely repro brands like RMC just aren't that popular out West and its perhaps a bit too niche of a market segment that stocking them( if they do in fact have high minimums) is probably not worth the retailer investing in it.
 

kiya

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Perhaps I should have phrased it better as all retail operations are a risk in stocking inventory. Some brands are simply 'safer' than others in the regard.

I don't know whats popular these days at the SE shops, but I always thought that 3sixteen, Iron Heart were big sellers and certainly have a lot of popularity amongst the denim crowd. PBJ would probably be similar I suppose. I guess what I was trying to say is the purely repro brands like RMC just aren't that popular out West and its perhaps a bit too niche of a market segment that stocking them( if they do in fact have high minimums) is probably not worth the retailer investing in it.
Sorry, I should have clarified. My statement was in reply to BiG's response as to why they carry more brands like Kapital and less repro brands now..
 

whorishconsumer

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We've never carried RMC at Self Edge, not sure where you heard or saw that. I've been friends with Tsujimoto for many years as he's quite close with the president of Flat Head, but we've never carried the brand. We had the choice of which brand to carry in 2005 and we chose Buzz Rickson; very happy with that choice 15 years later, especially considering we love the way they stand behind their product and conduct business.

On the note of what leather jackets are made in what factories.. I went through some of those links posted a page back and trust me when I say many of those posts are flat out wrong as to what is produced where. But it is true that very few brands actually own the facility making their jackets, Fine Creek Leathers (used to be High Large years ago) is one of them.

The conversation above about "risk" doesn't make sense to me.. there's risk in selling ALL brands, and more of a risk when selling a brand which is hyped and trend based, like Kapital. It's less of a risk selling brands doing high quality repro stuff, that stuff doesn't really go in and out of fashion as quickly as a brand which operates more like a Fashion brand.
Thank you for the edification. I have an inquiry out to Fok about gaining basic admin rights so I may update the top of this thread with relevant changes/updates. I will make the correction there concerning SE's relationship to RMC, if given the permission.

The discussion of risk is merely academic for me, as I do not operate in the garment industry. It seems that inventory that is very expensive to the business to carry and moves slowly off the shelves is a greater up-front risk, but may be safer long-term given it is not subject to fashion trends, as you are suggesting. So perhaps it is a question of business approach and whether a shop is able to take an up-front hit for long-term stability.
 

whorishconsumer

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Sorry, I should have clarified. My statement was in reply to BiG's response as to why they carry more brands like Kapital and less repro brands now..
I feel compelled to state that this was my interpretation from a conversation with one SA, and may either be incorrect or not the position of BiG as a whole.
 
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whorishconsumer

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FWIW this is also a grail for me. I've been kicking myself for not purchasing the brown when I had the chance. I went on a massive search over the summer/fall with the help of Standard & Strange, Lost & Found, and Real McCoys London (albeit the last wasn't very helpful) for either the black or the brown that turned up nothing. I'm holding out for a used one but I haven't seen any posted in a while. I'm hoping this makes a return. I did bug the guys and S&S that they should do the jacket as a special release.
Fingers crossed that @LA Guy might come through with that European connection.
 
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jmiller123

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IMG_4986.jpeg
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Alright guys, would like your opinion- This is the size 40 RMC N1 that I ordered after the 38 wouldn't work with anything other than a tee.. This allows me to layer with more, but now I'm thinking it might be too large everywhere besides the chest? If only there was an in-between size..
 

illiterate

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View attachment 1564414View attachment 1564415View attachment 1564416

Alright guys, would like your opinion- This is the size 40 RMC N1 that I ordered after the 38 wouldn't work with anything other than a tee.. This allows me to layer with more, but now I'm thinking it might be too large everywhere besides the chest? If only there was an in-between size..
Looks fine to me. I had a 38 that I ended up selling because it was a bit too slim/restrictive in the shoulders. A size 40 would've been perfect for me.
 

whorishconsumer

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View attachment 1564414View attachment 1564415View attachment 1564416

Alright guys, would like your opinion- This is the size 40 RMC N1 that I ordered after the 38 wouldn't work with anything other than a tee.. This allows me to layer with more, but now I'm thinking it might be too large everywhere besides the chest? If only there was an in-between size..
It's a matter of preference, I believe. The trimmer cut is in vogue, but at the end of the day this is a utilitarian garb, meant to keep you warm while tossing rope about a salty deck (or so we tell ourselves). If you wish to go for a more layered look, then this would be the jacket for you, but you'd want to actually layer to get a sense for what that looks like. The arms are long enough and don't appear overly-long, so that is a plus.

1614535036893.png
 
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gnu

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I've found that these deck jackets tend to mold and fit to your body a bit as the heavy jungle cloth breaks in. I have a first model from General Quarters that was a little tight across the chest when I first got it, but its slowly breaking in and has become a lot more comfortable and will 'accommodate' a few more layers under.

Either way I think if you decide to keep the bigger one, it'll look better when its broken in a bit.
 

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