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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

justlikefifthave

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I decided to keep them and put them through the wash, for what would my week be without a $350 gamble?

They're not widely available so far. This is the most attractive presentation of them I've seen:

View attachment 1623109

Barnstormer and Nagoya make them look a bit too washed out, however these detail shots from Nagoya are an accurate representation of the beige/dusty undertone, which is what initially turned me off to them:




I can see wearing them big-cuff style, and I like them that way with my Viberg sidezips. However, I generally don't go for the big cuff, so I may need to have them hemmed, more like how Squarzi wears his denim.
Are you still keeping or would you consider selling?
 

whorishconsumer

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In corresponding with Gen at S&S re preordering either the J-24 or J-24L he relayed the following:

"It isn't in our grand designs to restock the J-24L in the near future as The Real McCoy's will not be producing this model this year, best guess is POSSIBLY Fall/Winter '22. This is because the new edition of the J-24 will now be compatible with a removable mouton collar option that will be sold separately. We're currently sold out of the older edition J-24 and I'd typically offer for us to special order but they have discontinued this edition."
 

bry2000

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Whorish, if you want a double rider and are not hung up specifically on Japanese repro, I would recommend that you consider The Flat Head Delraiser, which is Self Edge’s version of The Flat Head Horsehide Riders Jacket, which Snake Oil Provisions will be stocking later this year.
 

jmiller123

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Screen Shot 2021-06-23 at 12.02.05 AM.png

Waiting for my latest YJ purchase to be delivered.... looking for an A-2 next, thinking maybe McCoys but not sure I want to drop that much. Any recs?
 

whorishconsumer

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Whorish, if you want a double rider and are not hung up specifically on Japanese repro, I would recommend that you consider The Flat Head Delraiser, which is Self Edge’s version of The Flat Head Horsehide Riders Jacket, which Snake Oil Provisions will be stocking later this year.
Good rec. I'm likely to preorder the new J-24, assuming fit works, as I want the mouton collar option.
 

whorishconsumer

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View attachment 1629110
Waiting for my latest YJ purchase to be delivered.... looking for an A-2 next, thinking maybe McCoys but not sure I want to drop that much. Any recs?
YJ?

Re A2s, I was going to suggest, and it is commonly suggested, that if you don't go with with the brand/version you most desire you'll regret it. I am constantly seeking "better" and "better", which makes acceptance of "less than" difficult for me. But the truth is my inability to enjoy iterations of a given style that are not the most whatever is just in my experience of the thing. If you find an A2 that fits you within a certain range of accuracy and, more importantly, makes you feel cool as shit when you wear it, it doesn't really matter who made it. Bonus points if the StyFo HiveMind agree, but I wouldn't bank on that.

So, with that being said, A2s were made during WWII by different factories contracted with the US Army Air Forces. Each contractor gave their own spin on the style, some with larger collars, different hardware, etc. but mainly with different fits. A2s as a whole trend cropped in the body and tight in the shoulders, but there's variance in how baggy the rest of the body can be. The Real McCoy's presently make two versions – the MJ18101, which has a slimmer, "modern" fit, a dark ('seal') brown dyed horsehide and a fictitious contract number (41-6330 P), and the MJ19001, which is a repro of one of the versions made by Rough Wear during the war (contract W535AC-23380) and has a looser fit. It's also dyed horsehide but is a lighter shade, if I recall correctly.

Beyond Real McCoy's, John Chapman at Good Wear makes custom A2s for like a grand less and is well regarded, but his wait list is at somewhere near the two-year mark. His site is still worth checking out if you want to learn about the different contracts. You might check the sale section from time to time for surplus: https://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/a2_monarch_a2.html

Buzz Rickson's makes an A2, which you can you get through History Preservation Society when they have it in stock. Eastman Leathers is a British label that History Preservation also stocks. I haven't handled either, but my impression is both veer a little looser in fit.

Yet others would be Aero, and Schott.

In terms of color, when I was looking I found that Real McCoy's 'Seal Brown' pigment dye was somewhat unique, although other brands do have their own versions. A lot of the A2s I see tend to be more toward russet brown or other hues. This is where the Real McCoy's ends up if you beat the shit out of it.

I would check out the Fedora Lounge and Vintage Leather Jackets Forum if you want to nerd out on A2s (it goes deep).
 
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XWT

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I'm gonna guess Yahoo Japan

Buzz Rickson's makes an A2, which you can you get through History Preservation Society when they have it in stock. Eastman Leathers is a British label that History Preservation also stocks. I haven't handled either, but my impression is both veer a little looser in fit.
I adore Buzz Rickson's G-1, but I don't love their A-2 the same. No real reason, it's just the way it looks.

Beyond Real McCoy's, John Chapman at Good Wear makes custom A2s for like a grand less and is well regarded, but his wait list is at somewhere near the two-year mark.
I keep meaning to get on his waiting list but he's terrible at answering emails and I'm not taking the time to call him. I want to discuss the different models before ordering.
 

jmiller123

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YJ?

Re A2s, I was going to suggest, and it is commonly suggested, that if you don't go with with the brand/version you most desire you'll regret it. I am constantly seeking "better" and "better", which makes acceptance of "less than" difficult for me. But the truth is my inability to enjoy iterations of a given style that are not the most whatever is just in my experience of the thing. If you find an A2 that fits you within a certain range of accuracy and, more importantly, makes you feel cool as shit when you wear it, it doesn't really matter who made it. Bonus points if the StyFo HiveMind agree, but I wouldn't bank on that.

So, with that being said, A2s were made during WWII by different factories contracted with the US Army Air Forces. Each contractor gave their own spin on the style, some with larger collars, different hardware, etc. but mainly with different fits. A2s as a whole trend cropped in the body and tight in the shoulders, but there's variance in how baggy the rest of the body can be. The Real McCoy's presently make two versions – the MJ18101, which has a slimmer, "modern" fit, a dark ('seal') brown dyed horsehide and a fictitious contract number (41-6330 P), and the MJ19001, which is a repro of one of the versions made by Rough Wear during the war (contract W535AC-23380) and has a looser fit. It's also dyed horsehide but is a lighter shade, if I recall correctly.

Beyond Real McCoy's, John Chapman at Good Wear makes custom A2s for like a grand less and is well regarded, but his wait list is at somewhere near the two-year mark. His site is still worth checking out if you want to learn about the different contracts. You might check the sale section from time to time for surplus: https://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/a2_monarch_a2.html

Buzz Rickson's makes an A2, which you can you get through History Preservation Society when they have it in stock. Eastman Leathers is a British label that History Preservation also stocks. I haven't handled either, but my impression is both veer a little looser in fit.

Yet others would be Aero, and Schott.

In terms of color, when I was looking I found that Real McCoy's 'Seal Brown' pigment dye was somewhat unique, although other brands do have their own versions. A lot of the A2s I see tend to be more toward russet brown or other hues. This is where the Real McCoy's ends up if you beat the shit out of it.

I would check out the Fedora Lounge and Vintage Leather Jackets Forum if you want to nerd out on A2s (it goes deep).
Yes, Yahoo Japan

Appreciate the thorough answer. I think we're the same regarding always wanting the "best," as I'm also constantly trying to get the top tier of whatever object it is that I'm interested in. Hence why I went with the McCoys M65 rather than getting one of the many on eBay for 1/10th the price. I'm sure it's not worth 10x the price but I'd probably always pine for it if I went the other route.

I actually didn't know they made the MJ19001 version. That appeals to me more than a modern slimmer version as I definitely had the repro fit in mind. I'll check that out as well as the Eastman versions as well.
 

StrangeJeremy

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Appreciate the thorough answer. I think we're the same regarding always wanting the "best," as I'm also constantly trying to get the top tier of whatever object it is that I'm interested in. Hence why I went with the McCoys M65 rather than getting one of the many on eBay for 1/10th the price. I'm sure it's not worth 10x the price but I'd probably always pine for it if I went the other route
I have both the 1st type McCoy's M65 and a 1st type vintage M65 that I paid $30 for.

The magic trick that Kento pulls off is creating something that *looks* and *feels* like you think it should, but is significantly nicer in every possible way. From six feet away, you wouldn't necessarily be able to pick out the original, but up close it is a world of difference.
 

whorishconsumer

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I went with the Freewheelers/Vanishing West 601xx 1951, primarily because I could get it in a shorter length, but also because the denim seems interesting. I ordered from the Desolation Row web store, which I didn't even know was a thing.

I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with the RMC 001 as well.
 

CityHunter

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Is it just me, or are the shoulders for RMC J-100 really long/wide? Like, it doesn't line up with the chest measurements....I've never tried one on, but I'm going off the measurements posted by multiple shops. Is that just the way the jacket is supposed to me and will it look normal when worn?
 

Mghart

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I went with the Freewheelers/Vanishing West 601xx 1951, primarily because I could get it in a shorter length, but also because the denim seems interesting. I ordered from the Desolation Row web store, which I didn't even know was a thing.

I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with the RMC 001 as well.
Not sure if the 51 uses a different fabric than say the 47, but iirc the 51 is the ‘slimmest’ offering that Freewheelers makes. Either way, the details on their denim are really nice.
 

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