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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

Michigan Planner

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Could you give me advice regarding the sizing of the Freewheelers stuff? I am interested in their jackets but not sure which size should I go with: 36 or 38? I am 178 cm tall, 65 kg, 35" chest

They run small. You can find measurements on some stuff on Brogue's shop page. Otherwise, Freewheelers still has a webstore (Highway 61) for at least some of their stuff, with measurements. Or you can search Japanese stockists, like Speedway Sendai, which will list measurements. Pro tip: Google translate your query to Japanese and search.

I've bought a few Freewheelers things from Brogue and found their measurements to be slightly on the small side each time so I'd definitely lean towards sizing up in most of their stuff. In particular, both times the sleeves were just a tad shorter than the measurements suggested and the shoulders were a bit more narrow. The stuff is awesome quality though.
 

WaIIace

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They run small. You can find measurements on some stuff on Brogue's shop page. Otherwise, Freewheelers still has a webstore (Highway 61) for at least some of their stuff, with measurements. Or you can search Japanese stockists, like Speedway Sendai, which will list measurements. Pro tip: Google translate your query to Japanese and search.
I've bought a few Freewheelers things from Brogue and found their measurements to be slightly on the small side each time so I'd definitely lean towards sizing up in most of their stuff. In particular, both times the sleeves were just a tad shorter than the measurements suggested and the shoulders were a bit more narrow. The stuff is awesome quality though.
Thanks!
 

whorishconsumer

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Iron Heart SS25 was pretty meh. Probably going to pass on this season.

I was going to comment that IH's value proposition of heavy-duty motorcycle and workwear doesn't really translate to the warm months (summer flannel isn't a thing, at least in many parts of the States). However, now I'm questioning whether I need a pair of duck canvas engineer shorts.

S/S collections are always dull, with the only interesting pieces being things like jackets that really are better suited for Fall.
 

whorishconsumer

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How has everyone's luck been with using in-store hem services on denim and the like?

I recently received two different pair from two different stores where the inseam length is off by 1/4-1/2" between the legs . In one case at least it was definitely the hem job. I do, however, wonder if shrinkage and leg twist play a factor after washing.

It actually would have worked out, because one of my legs is longer than the other, but they left the excess on the shorter leg. Not sure if I'll embrace it or pay to have them hemmed a second time.
 

Treble

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How has everyone's luck been with using in-store hem services on denim and the like?

I recently received two different pair from two different stores where the inseam length is off by 1/4-1/2" between the legs . In one case at least it was definitely the hem job. I do, however, wonder if shrinkage and leg twist play a factor after washing.

It actually would have worked out, because one of my legs is longer than the other, but they left the excess on the shorter leg. Not sure if I'll embrace it or pay to have them hemmed a second time.

They should be fixing that at their expense.

I highly doubt differing twist or washing would account for legs being different.
 

Numbernine

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New raw denim is pretty stiff. A 1/4" is splitting hairs. 🤷‍♂️ A half inch maybe yeah. I've hemmed my own jeans for years so I know of what I speak.
 

whorishconsumer

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New raw denim is pretty stiff. A 1/4" is splitting hairs. 🤷‍♂️ A half inch maybe yeah. I've hemmed my own jeans for years so I know of what I speak.

Does the stiffness result in differential inseam length?

For whatever reason the 1/4" differential shrunk to like 1/8th" in the wash, so I'm leaving that as-is.

On the fence concerning the 1/2" differential. It just further highlights what is already a discrepancy in leg length. But if my tailor doesn't have thread matching what the shop used the first time around and he therefore would have to re-sew both legs, I may just leave it.
 

Numbernine

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Does the stiffness result in differential inseam length?

For whatever reason the 1/4" differential shrunk to like 1/8th" in the wash, so I'm leaving that as-is.

On the fence concerning the 1/2" differential. It just further highlights what is already a discrepancy in leg length. But if my tailor doesn't have thread matching what the shop used the first time around and he therefore would have to re-sew both legs, I may just leave it.
If you want to shorten the long leg ok but there probably isn't enough material left to lengthen an extra half inch. I hem 5/8" but I like a little stack and always wear slip on boots so it's not a big deal.
 

whorishconsumer

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If you want to shorten the long leg ok but there probably isn't enough material left to lengthen an extra half inch. I hem 5/8" but I like a little stack and always wear slip on boots so it's not a big deal.

After another measure, the 1/2" differential is a 1/4" differential, so I'm going to leave it.

Was curious if difficulty in getting both legs equal was inherent in denim tailoring.
 

WaIIace

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Hi, guys. Would anyone be interested in a Mister Freedom $241.47 gift card for $200? If it is prohibited to ask such things here - please remove my message, thanks
 

jmiller123

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Does the stiffness result in differential inseam length?

For whatever reason the 1/4" differential shrunk to like 1/8th" in the wash, so I'm leaving that as-is.

On the fence concerning the 1/2" differential. It just further highlights what is already a discrepancy in leg length. But if my tailor doesn't have thread matching what the shop used the first time around and he therefore would have to re-sew both legs, I may just leave it.
what you could always do when you wash it, is stretch the one shorter leg by stepping on the hem and pulling the jeans away. You could probably get 1/2" of length if the fabric is wet.
 

Numbernine

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After another measure, the 1/2" differential is a 1/4" differential, so I'm going to leave it.

Was curious if difficulty in getting both legs equal was inherent in denim tailoring.
LOL no it's about knowing how to measure. I was an industrial pipe welder for 40 years we commonly worked with tolerances to 1/64" that most of us could eyeball but to be honest the denim we wear probably has never been washed or at best only once and how it shrinks varies a lot depending on weight and weave. I don't hem mine until a couple of washings for just that reason.
 

Numbernine

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what you could always do when you wash it, is stretch the one shorter leg by stepping on the hem and pulling the jeans away. You could probably get 1/2" of length if the fabric is wet.
This works great. I'm a bit thick waisted so jeans that fit me well are almost always a bit too snug for me there so before I wear them the first time I soak the upper block in a sink for a bit and use a carpenters bar clamp flipped around so they spread rather than clamp to stretch, let them dry . I get at least an extra inch that way
 

canstyleace

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Could you give me advice regarding the sizing of the Freewheelers stuff? I am interested in their jackets but not sure which size should I go with: 36 or 38? I am 178 cm tall, 65 kg, 35" chest
You’re likely gonna be between sizes, 36 is gonna feel ok in the chest/shoulders with a shorter body/sleeves and 38 is gonna be better lengthwise but roomy in the chest, gl.
 

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