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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

Michigan Planner

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Inspired by those great pants above, does anyone have any experience or can recommend the Bronson P-41 HBTs? Buck Mason also just released a version, and they’re much more expensive than Bronson’s and I don’t trust that they’re any better but I’ll take a recommendation for it. Anyone recommend a solid P-41 HBT?

I have the Bronson P-41 and for the price, they are hard to beat. The fabric is a bit more stiff than a lot of other brands I've tried and takes a bit to break in but it's definitely nice and sturdy.

There is very little consistency in the sizing from one type of trouser or chino from Bronson to another so make sure you check the measurements. I've also found them to be pretty good at responding to email questions about sizing.
 

2900_

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Does anyone know which stockists in Tokyo carry Time worn, Butcher Products and At Last & Co?

Some family are visiting Tokyo this week and are willing to do some shopping for me.

Thanks.
Yes send them to the Tokyo store, there are also some resell shops where you can find some of their stuff, like foolsjudge
 

ppk

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Yes send them to the Tokyo store, there are also some resell shops where you can find some of their stuff, like foolsjudge
They went to the Tokyo store yesterday and fell in love with it. Timeworn didn't have the pants in my size, but they got me some other HBT pants which I'm excited to try when they come back.
 

2900_

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They went to the Tokyo store yesterday and fell in love with it. Timeworn didn't have the pants in my size, but they got me some other HBT pants which I'm excited to try when they come back.
nice make sure to post a fitpic, and wash first before you hem them
 

whorishconsumer

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I think I over-indexed on denim. I already had two pair of semi-raw denim before ordering another three. And that doesn't factor my three pairs of black jeans, my distressed pair, my white jeans or my tan jeans.

👖
 

jischwar

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I think I over-indexed on denim. I already had two pair of semi-raw denim before ordering another three. And that doesn't factor my three pairs of black jeans, my distressed pair, my white jeans or my tan jeans.

👖
It's easy to do. I just rotate so nothing is fading super quick but I don't wear the same pair too many days in a row
 

Mghart

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I think I over-indexed on denim. I already had two pair of semi-raw denim before ordering another three. And that doesn't factor my three pairs of black jeans, my distressed pair, my white jeans or my tan jeans.

👖
Do they all vary in fit slightly, or just stylistically different? I haven't really bought much denim in the last couple years I've had pairs I just kinda rotate what I have. Maybe one pair from 2019 is on the verge of retiring soon that I'll replace with the same cut.
 

whorishconsumer

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Do they all vary in fit slightly, or just stylistically different? I haven't really bought much denim in the last couple years I've had pairs I just kinda rotate what I have. Maybe one pair from 2019 is on the verge of retiring soon that I'll replace with the same cut.

I inadvertently got my partner into Japanese denim after taking her to Self Edge in LA, where we bought her some Boncouras, and then Self Edge again in San Francisco, where she picked up a pair of Mister Freedom Lot 674s. So now I have the denim bug again, myself.

Indigo, raw denim, I feel like I've been seeking the Ur jean since I was 20. There were the too-tight fits of the oughts through the 10s and up until about yesterday. Grew out of all of that and despise low-rise now. In the last few years I've tried my hand at J-denim and somewhat fuller, higher-rise cuts, but a lot of those have gone bye-bye through the weight gain.

What's left are a pair of Resolute 714s, for which the rise is lower than I'd like but which have worn well and are comfortable, and I like the denim, and a pair of Warehouse 1105s, which are actually fitting me slimmer than I recall now, but have a high rise and look flattering, but also have western arcuates.

But now I've gone and acquired:
  • A pair of APCs in their max size (36) and which I'm performing an experiment with on my size-41-ish waist. Surprisingly, they're stretching.
  • A pair of Mister Freedom 44WLs that, if I keep them, will be the highest-rise, widest leg jean I own by far.
  • A pair of Full Count 1103s for which I'm awaiting receipt and which will serve a my clean-back, wear with collared shirts pair.
If you call the Resolutes and APCs home/experiment wear and the 1105s slimmer ornate wear, then I guess there's an argument to be made that there's a place for the Mister Freedoms and the 1103s.

Then there are the black denim, comprised of a more-rocker, cool-guy pair of 3Sixteens CT220x, a pair of deadstock, probably-90s or early-oughts 505s that I've had hemmed a bit cropped, and a washed-out, flimsy, narrow pair of Attolini jeans that kind of work but kind of don't.

I've got as one of the couple surviving items from my deep dive into Real McCoy's a pair of Lot 001xx in the washed variety they did, which I had tapered in the leg and which fit me tight in the waist now but still work.

I had to let go of my pair of white Real McCoy's 996s (which went to my partner), so I replaced them with a pair of white Drake's I seldom wear because white is a vibe.

And finally there's the pair of modern-day 505s in beige that I picked up for $50 that I on the one hand despise because of their cheap construction, but also find attractively practical. Not actually denim, though.

IDK, man: it just seems like too much acquisition.
 

Mghart

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I inadvertently got my partner into Japanese denim after taking her to Self Edge in LA, where we bought her some Boncouras, and then Self Edge again in San Francisco, where she picked up a pair of Mister Freedom Lot 674s. So now I have the denim bug again, myself.

Indigo, raw denim, I feel like I've been seeking the Ur jean since I was 20. There were the too-tight fits of the oughts through the 10s and up until about yesterday. Grew out of all of that and despise low-rise now. In the last few years I've tried my hand at J-denim and somewhat fuller, higher-rise cuts, but a lot of those have gone bye-bye through the weight gain.

What's left are a pair of Resolute 714s, for which the rise is lower than I'd like but which have worn well and are comfortable, and I like the denim, and a pair of Warehouse 1105s, which are actually fitting me slimmer than I recall now, but have a high rise and look flattering, but also have western arcuates.

But now I've gone and acquired:
  • A pair of APCs in their max size (36) and which I'm performing an experiment with on my size-41-ish waist. Surprisingly, they're stretching.
  • A pair of Mister Freedom 44WLs that, if I keep them, will be the highest-rise, widest leg jean I own by far.
  • A pair of Full Count 1103s for which I'm awaiting receipt and which will serve a my clean-back, wear with collared shirts pair.
If you call the Resolutes and APCs home/experiment wear and the 1105s slimmer ornate wear, then I guess there's an argument to be made that there's a place for the Mister Freedoms and the 1103s.

Then there are the black denim, comprised of a more-rocker, cool-guy pair of 3Sixteens CT220x, a pair of deadstock, probably-90s or early-oughts 505s that I've had hemmed a bit cropped, and a washed-out, flimsy, narrow pair of Attolini jeans that kind of work but kind of don't.

I've got as one of the couple surviving items from my deep dive into Real McCoy's a pair of Lot 001xx in the washed variety they did, which I had tapered in the leg and which fit me tight in the waist now but still work.

I had to let go of my pair of white Real McCoy's 996s (which went to my partner), so I replaced them with a pair of white Drake's I seldom wear because white is a vibe.

And finally there's the pair of modern-day 505s in beige that I picked up for $50 that I on the one hand despise because of their cheap construction, but also find attractively practical. Not actually denim, though.

IDK, man: it just seems like too much acquisition.
That’s quite the journey haha. I suppose I did the same from about 2014-2017 with 3sixteen,RGT, a bunch of iron heart and Stevenson. Once I landed on high rise and full cuts I’ve never looked back. Would still love to try Warehouse at some point, but having about 4 pairs of denim that are still fine is enough for now
 

whorishconsumer

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That’s quite the journey haha. I suppose I did the same from about 2014-2017 with 3sixteen,RGT, a bunch of iron heart and Stevenson. Once I landed on high rise and full cuts I’ve never looked back. Would still love to try Warehouse at some point, but having about 4 pairs of denim that are still fine is enough for now

I was on superdenim starting 2007-08, and so brought to view all these raw-denim brands as coveted. I couldn't afford any of it (save a pair of Warehouse Dubbleworks I got in a size 29 given the misguided sizing advice of the time), so special denim has always remained a covetable good for me.

I was just wondering what happened to Kicking Mule Workshop the other day.
 

Numbernine

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All I've worn for the last 5 or so years is 3Sixteen shadow denim in the same cut, usually 3 pairs in various stages I rotate depending on mood. I'm retired now for 20 years but I was a construction pipe fitter/welder and up until Levis went to hell all I wore was bootcut 517s for about 30 years. Rotated about a dozen pair at a time and once they got too beat up for work they became my " dressing up" jeans.
 

whorishconsumer

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All I've worn for the last 5 or so years is 3Sixteen shadow denim in the same cut, usually 3 pairs in various stages I rotate depending on mood. I'm retired now for 20 years but I was a construction pipe fitter/welder and up until Levis went to hell all I wore was bootcut 517s for about 30 years. Rotated about a dozen pair at a time and once they got too beat up for work they became my " dressing up" jeans.

Sorry, this thread is solely for blue collar cos play. No one with actual tradeskills allowed.
 

whorishconsumer

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I've come back full circle to looking at N-1s and am hovering around a Buzz Rickson. My only experiences trying on an N-1 were a couple times trying the Real McCoy's make in size 40 and 42. As I recall those ran a bit large comparative to the A2 of the time. I'm now a size 46 at least and having to guess at how that scales, and across brands.

Anyone with experience, how should I factor for the density of the lining in determining size? For the BR, for example, how thick is the nap? 1"?
 
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ojaw

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I've come back full circle to looking at N-1s and am hovering around a Buzz Rickson. My only experiences trying on an N-1 were a couple times trying the Real McCoy's make in size 40 and 42. As I recall those ran a bit large comparative to the A2 of the time. I'm now a size 46 at least and having to guess at how that scales, and across brands.

Anyone with experience, how should I factor for the density of the lining in determining size? For the BR, for example, how thick is the nep? 1"?
Hard to measure the nap as I’ve owned the jacket for a few years now, maybe .75”? I have the heavyweight, non-stenciled version from History Preservation in 38. I’m about a 36” chest with hip and thigh bones that are a little outsized. It fits me pretty well, though a heavy sweater underneath feels restrictive. I like it for the most part though I ended up changing the buttons to Canadian military style slotted ones that have a much greater chance of staying attached.
As someone who drives for a living I think I’d prefer something a bit shorter in the body and double zipped. The materials are ace and very robust, I hear that BR are one of the more obsessive makers when it comes to military reproductions.
I highly recommend the HP site, Charles has put a lot of work into sizing, including measurements and advice on fit.
 

whorishconsumer

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Hard to measure the nap as I’ve owned the jacket for a few years now, maybe .75”? I have the heavyweight, non-stenciled version from History Preservation in 38. I’m about a 36” chest with hip and thigh bones that are a little outsized. It fits me pretty well, though a heavy sweater underneath feels restrictive. I like it for the most part though I ended up changing the buttons to Canadian military style slotted ones that have a much greater chance of staying attached.
As someone who drives for a living I think I’d prefer something a bit shorter in the body and double zipped. The materials are ace and very robust, I hear that BR are one of the more obsessive makers when it comes to military reproductions.
I highly recommend the HP site, Charles has put a lot of work into sizing, including measurements and advice on fit.

That's where I'm looking.

Does the fit taper at the waist or hem?
 

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