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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

Numbernine

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Speaking of 30s leather jackets I found a brown original ( I can't remember the brand because my girlfriend replaced the red and black liner), on the floor of Winterland after a Grateful Dead show in the early 70s. I wore that thing completely out. Sorry no pics phone cameras were still a few decades away
 

Mghart

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Thanks for posting this.

I read through the linked TFL thread - very informative. I think the jacket fits the OP very well. The Nelson appears to fit TTS based on that OP's experience and the sizing advice provided by Standard & Strange. A little frustrating, but S&S' measurements differ from those listed on the RMC's website, enough so to cause hesitation. Extrapolating from the OP's self measurements and fit pics, I think TTS may work for me, but with a snugger fit. Too snug - I don't know; enough to size up one - unclear.

Based on the RMC's measurements, the mobster should fit TTS, no doubt.



Interesting after I just wrote that the Nelson seems to fit TTS, you provide a real life example of possibly needing to size up. To clarify, your typical US jacket size is a 40 and you found the size 42 to fit trim?

I looked up the Freewheelers Mulholland -- also a beautiful jacket. Are there any USA stockists of the brand?
I’d say pre covid weight I’m a good size 40 US jacket. My N1 jacket from RMC is a 42, but that’s not a great comparison as it’s cut very differently. I typically look for something with about a 22-23” P2P and about an 18-19” shoulder. That said, I like to feel comfortable and don’t like things to be snug, and I’ll error on sizing larger so long as the other proportions don’t get out of hand.

The 42 Nelson I tried in shop fit and I could zip it up, but I didn’t feel particularly mobile in the shoulders which I didn’t like. It’s something I’d have to try on again in person as I only tried it briefly.


The only other thing I’ll add about Freewheelers is their stuff runs even smaller, and I would be a size 44 in their stuff. Thankfully most shops that sell them list the important measurements, but every jacket they make sizes differently given the different patterns.
 
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Ed13

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Thanks for posting this.

I read through the linked TFL thread - very informative. I think the jacket fits the OP very well. The Nelson appears to fit TTS based on that OP's experience and the sizing advice provided by Standard & Strange. A little frustrating, but S&S' measurements differ from those listed on the RMC's website, enough so to cause hesitation. Extrapolating from the OP's self measurements and fit pics, I think TTS may work for me, but with a snugger fit. Too snug - I don't know; enough to size up one - unclear.

Based on the RMC's measurements, the mobster should fit TTS, no doubt.



Interesting after I just wrote that the Nelson seems to fit TTS, you provide a real life example of possibly needing to size up. To clarify, your typical US jacket size is a 40 and you found the size 42 to fit trim?

I looked up the Freewheelers Mulholland -- also a beautiful jacket. Are there any USA stockists of the brand?


The jacket in the pic is beautiful. I think the appeal of the 30's sport jacket style to me is that it seems to be relatively easy to incorporate into an existing wardrobe. It lacks the moto features which call for denim and boots. I can also see wearing the 30s style with fatigues, regular chinos, etc. I believe the Armoury has styled the jackets with donegal wool trousers, something I could not see wearing with a FCL double rider. But maybe I am wrong. But there is a fine line with this style between cool and boring dad vibes.

I also like the shorter length of these jackets. Many of the motos/DRs I have tried tend to be too long for me.


Cool pic. Thanks for sharing.
I picked up a RMC Nelson over a year ago and really like the jacket. They also had the Mobster but didn't do anything for me so did no try it on. Usually wear with jeans but have paired it with chinos and flannel pants. I like the versatility.

As mentioned it is short in the body. I am 6'2", 215lbs with a 44 chest and 34 waist. I went down to a 42 to get a tight fit. Narrows nicely at the waist. Usually wear with t-shirts or a long sleeve henley. No room to layer more. I need 26-27" sleeves and it works bang on for me. Tried on two different size 42s, the one I bought fit well, the other was too tight in the chest. Hand made so expect measurements to be slightly different. One of the things I really liked about the Nelson is the slight matte finish to the leather. Slight sheen without being shiny.

I also have a Buco J-24 DR. This jacket I needed a 46 which gave me enough room to layer something not too thick like an Iron Heart ultra heavy flannel. Usually do not wear a winter jacket until temperature drops to -15C or below. Not quite as short as the Nelson (maybe an inch different) so still on the short side. Sleeve length is ever so slightly longer. Leather has more shine than the Nelson.
 

whorishconsumer

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Well, after visiting the Armoury Westbury again and giving the jackets an honest go, I can honestly say:

I have no idea what I am talking about.

First a brief note on the leather. As I mea-culpa’d earlier, I had initially noted a brittleness to the horshide of the Grizzly, Mobster and Bucos. After being schooled over at The Fedora Lounge on hide and tannage, and after wearing my A2 the past couple months, I can’t account for my previous statements. The leather for all of these models is both dense and flexible (although not spongy like processed lambskin).

Secondly, the fit of the Mobster and Grizzly are not as boxy or wide / short in the arms as my first impression had led me to believe. Again, I really can’t account for this impression. I will note the Mobster was a bit boxy in the 44, which is the size I would need in this model. The arms, however, were long, not short, and I don’t think I’m swimming in them. It’s definitely a looser fit that an SLP DR or my Falcon Garments, which I had made on the slim side. The Grizzly was awesome, if not impractical. It should also be remarked that the pinlock zipper on both made it pretty difficult to open and close.

Finally, much to my surprise, not only did I like the Buco J-100, but it’s presently the jacket I’m wrestling with whether or not to purchase.

Two more corrections: the wool serge lining of the Mobster and Grizzly feels like wool jersey, not cotton. So it is a bit warmer because of this. The Bucos, on the other hand, had a silk or Bemberg lining.

Mobster 42
FD9980E0-20AF-429D-B081-498A6C772B96.jpeg

1AA1CC6C-7DBB-45F6-B360-B393D004462F.jpeg


Mobster 44
B6C7F207-B50F-4A24-BAC0-DA29B30C927C.jpeg


Grizzly 42
BE16B3C2-F8C4-4006-AA15-8EBE4297EAAF.jpeg
0BFE61A9-DDC7-474B-A8F4-2B8E31B9CFED.jpeg
54BEF50D-4E30-4050-A4A4-D89BBF3AC684.jpeg


Buco J-100 44
6791A363-673C-4026-B793-0EF4FCD918A7.jpeg
16C01E9F-F6CF-4700-8DA6-030ECAAA4D18.jpeg
563DB597-B363-4343-BE01-8E560B8F0FF8.jpeg


Buco J-82 Padded 44
560860EA-B520-4A37-9C0C-B71647569FCF.jpeg


Not pictured:
Buco J-24 42 (Couldn’t zip)
 

bry2000

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Thanks for posting these fit pics @whorishconsumer . Very informative. Did not recognize you without the Fellinis, but those frames are also dope.

To put these fits into perspective (and not to be creepy), can you say what your chest and shoulder measurements are, if you know them. I think you said you are over 6' tall.

I think the J-100 fits you the best. Looks outstanding actually. Do you think you would want hand warmer pockets in that style (even if it is not historically correct)? I can see how you have trouble getting jackets to be long enough. I have the opposite problem for leathers.

I also think the padded double rider looks great, but probably a little specific.

Grizzly is very cool, but think it seems a little short. Proportions seem off. I would be scared of getting the shearling dirty. But that's me.

Not feeling the Mobster. Seems short. Maybe the 44 would be better or if you were to wear the jacket with high waisted, wider trousers. Either way, after seeing the J-100 on you, hard to go in this direction even if the jackets are very different styles.

Edit: I realize you were posting fits to illustrate the specific models and you were not necessarily looking for opinions. I was merely thinking out loud as I was considering the jackets.
 
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whorishconsumer

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Thanks for posting these fit pics @whorishconsumer . Very informative. Did not recognize you without the Fellinis, but those frames are also dope.

To put these fits into perspective (and not to be creepy), can you say what your chest and shoulder measurements are, if you know them. I think you said you are over 6' tall.

I think the J-100 fits you the best. Looks outstanding actually. Do you think you would want hand warmer pockets in that style (even if it is not historically correct)? I can see how you have trouble getting jackets to be long enough. I have the opposite problem for leathers.

I also think the padded double rider looks great, but probably a little specific.

Grizzly is very cool, but think it seems a little short. Proportions seem off. I would be scared of getting the shearling dirty. But that's me.

Not feeling the Mobster on you. Seems too short. Maybe the 44 would be better or if you were to wear the jacket with high waisted, wider trousers. Either way, after seeing the J-100 on you, hard to go in this direction even if the jackets are very different styles.

Edit: I realize you were posting fits of the various models to illustrate the specific models and you were not looking for opinions on fit. I was merely thinking aloud when I wrote my comments.
Your comments are appreciated, although I suspect you’ve conspired with the SA to get me into the J-100.

I’m 6’3”, 200-205 lbs and the last time I measured am a 41” chest, with a 42” gut. My actual shoulder measurement was 19.5-20” at the beginning of the pandemic, and depending on whether measured above or across the scapula. Persistent bad posture while crouched over my laptop the last year has probably reduced that. I generally target 19” point to point for my jackets. My arms are about 25.5” to the wrist joint.

I was so mixed up in the game, it actually didn’t even occur to me that the cafe racer doesn’t have hand-warmer pockets. I thought the absence of these would bother me with my A2, but it really hasn’t, although the A2 does have the utility pockets where I can put my keys.

As for the Grizzly, I share your concern around upkeep, not to mention that it hardly gets cold enough in NYC, of the last couple winters are any indication.
 
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upsett1_spaghett1

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Well, after visiting the Armoury Westbury again and giving the jackets an honest go, I can honestly say:

I have no idea what I am talking about.

First a brief note on the leather. As I mea-culpa’d earlier, I had initially noted a brittleness to the horshide of the Grizzly, Mobster and Bucos. After being schooled over at The Fedora Lounge on hide and tannage, and after wearing my A2 the past couple months, I can’t account for my previous statements. The leather for all of these models is both dense and flexible (although not spongy like processed lambskin).

Secondly, the fit of the Mobster and Grizzly are not as boxy or wide / short in the arms as my first impression had led me to believe. Again, I really can’t account for this impression. I will note the Mobster was a bit boxy in the 44, which is the size I would need in this model. The arms, however, were long, not short, and I don’t think I’m swimming in them. It’s definitely a looser fit that an SLP DR or my Falcon Garments, which I had made on the slim side. The Grizzly was awesome, if not impractical. It should also be remarked that the pinlock zipper on both made it pretty difficult to open and close.

Finally, much to my surprise, not only did I like the Buco J-100, but it’s presently the jacket I’m wrestling with whether or not to purchase.

Two more corrections: the wool serge lining of the Mobster and Grizzly feels like wool jersey, not cotton. So it is a bit warmer because of this. The Bucos, on the other hand, had a silk or Bemberg lining.

Mobster 42
View attachment 1590902
View attachment 1590903

Mobster 44
View attachment 1590905

Grizzly 42
View attachment 1590910View attachment 1590911View attachment 1590912

Buco J-100 44
View attachment 1590906View attachment 1590907View attachment 1590908

Buco J-82 Padded 44
View attachment 1590909

Not pictured:
Buco J-24 42 (Couldn’t zip)
I think that the J-100 definitely looks the best on you, and it actually looks really really good. It's a good style for you and the fit looks nice

Stylistically, I also like the J-82 although I think it would be more of a black skinny jeans with suede Chelseas vibe. It seems you're drifting away from that so not sure if it's a move in that case.

I do really wish you had photos of the J-24 haha that is the jacket of theirs I'm most interested in and I want to see it on a person with a broader chest (most pics I've seen have been folks who are not nearly so burly up top as me).

The Mobster is honestly very meh, the useless belt loops really turn me off. I don't think it's a good pick for anyone.

That Grizzly is honestly really cool. It's utterly ludicrous but I dig that. The only thing is I feel like you have to have insane disposable income to justify a jacket like that. When will anyone actually wear it? That seems like one of those pieces where I would be like "I will wear this all the time because it's way cooler than everyone else's jacket," but then your jacket becomes the topic of conversation. People will not come up to you and say "I like your style" it will just be "cool jacket!" and those sort of pieces end up not getting worn much
 

XWT

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I live in a cold place so I'm definitely getting a Grizzly jacket at some point. It's the Himel Wolverine I want though. While I understand the comment about it being "that" leather jacket, when you wear leather jackets a lot it's just "a" leather jacket.

Anyhow, thanks W for allowing us to live vicariously through your visits to The Armoury.

These pictures of the Mobster are actually making me considering it again. The belt loop thing sorts of bother me, but not that much. I think it looks badass on the official product pics. Also, the shortness of the jacket is - to me - a feature and not a bug. The sleeve length seems different from the measured one, and I wouldn't discount the effect of the dropped shoulder seam on that. Based on my observation, the listed measurements indicates very wide shoulders and short sleeves. Because the last inch or so of the shoulder is dropped, this elungates the sleeves instead of creating a short-sleeve-on-a-square-jacket effect.

I don't know why I'm rambling about it. I'm not getting it anyway. My credit card is getting somewhat full, I have a Buyee haul coming my way, and my wife is unlikely to work at all during the next 6 to 9 months due to the extreme shortage of infant kindergarten spots. With her mat leave coming to an end, I'll have to stop buying fancy japanese clothes to keep up.
 

bry2000

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Well, I just bought the J-100.

Shit.
On the topic of the Buco J-100 or similar board/cafe racers, can this style be worn well with trousers other than denim? I see it as a denim and boots (or sneakers) type of jacket. But I was wondering if it were more versatile than that.

Also, ideally where should the sleeves land? Base of wrist or first thumb joint or somewhere in the middle. Perhaps the answer also matters whether or not you ride?
 

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