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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

whorishconsumer

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Have been thinking about the Real McCoys 30s sport jackets. Does anyone here own one or has anyone tried one on?

Interested in either the Nelson (MJ19115) or Mobster (MJ20118) model.

Would love to hear thoughts in terms of style preference or fit.

Nelson:
View attachment 1590484
Mobster:
View attachment 1590485
I'll copy the comment I made recently to another forum member who asked about the Mobster:

"I did try the mobster, in a size 44 I believe. You can see my initial comments on it here. My opinion of the leather has since changed, as I have learned more about horsehide and leather tannage in general, but my impressions of the pattern remain. As I commented later in the thread, as you scale up in these jackets the body and arms grow wider more than it grows vertically, so it ends up looking kind of awkward. In particular, the sleeves on the 30s / Mobster, being button cuffs, hung very awkwardly. on me, while the body kind of made me look like I was wearing a flattened barrel. Obviously part of this is because the leather is stiff and not yet broken in.

That being said, I found the Grizzly flattering on me in a 42, just too short in the arms. I have a 44 in the A2, I wear a 42 in jackets, 44 in jackets that run small. So, if you have a shorter torso and arms, then the mobster may work for you in your size, which I believe is a 42."

I'll add that I'm probably swinging by the Armoury tomorrow to check my impressions of the fit on the Mobster and The Grizzly (although like I need the temptation).
 

whorishconsumer

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Not the season for it, but there's a new RMC peacoat on Marrkt in a 42:

1618015579198.png

 

whorishconsumer

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Anyone know where I can get a similar US Navy HBT utility jacket w/o the stenciling (still uncomfortable with that as a concept). I think real mccoys had something like that but in a herringbone twill.
View attachment 1590133
I started searching Yahoo Auction Japan for "n-3 jacket" but no luck. I saw evidence that Real McCoy's did have a non-stenciled version, but I couldn't find any available. Edit: https://standardandstrange.com/collections/the-real-mccoys/products/n-3-utility-jacket-olive?variant=32038146539597

You could see if Standard & Strange can order another non-stenciled version for you, although it is herringbone, as you noted.


Also there's this: https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/coats-jackets/products/brycelandssafarijackethbtolive

I'm getting to the point with this repro fetish that I'm veering toward being ok with stenciling and other military insignia on my jacket, in violation of what ethics I have.

I guess Rambo wore flair on his Japanese reprowear.
 
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bry2000

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I'll copy the comment I made recently to another forum member who asked about the Mobster:

"I did try the mobster, in a size 44 I believe. You can see my initial comments on it here. My opinion of the leather has since changed, as I have learned more about horsehide and leather tannage in general, but my impressions of the pattern remain. As I commented later in the thread, as you scale up in these jackets the body and arms grow wider more than it grows vertically, so it ends up looking kind of awkward. In particular, the sleeves on the 30s / Mobster, being button cuffs, hung very awkwardly. on me, while the body kind of made me look like I was wearing a flattened barrel. Obviously part of this is because the leather is stiff and not yet broken in.

That being said, I found the Grizzly flattering on me in a 42, just too short in the arms. I have a 44 in the A2, I wear a 42 in jackets, 44 in jackets that run small. So, if you have a shorter torso and arms, then the mobster may work for you in your size, which I believe is a 42."

I'll add that I'm probably swinging by the Armoury tomorrow to check my impressions of the fit on the Mobster and The Grizzly (although like I need the temptation).
Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?
 

whorishconsumer

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Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?
From what I've seen, 30s style jackets are short in the torso and can trend toward boxy. That was certainly the case with the Mobster when I tried it on, which has the added factor of having arms that were quite wide. I have seen that some offset this by sizing down. So if you are on the shorter side this could be an option if looking for a more modern fit, such as below.

1618023703950.png

Note this photo is for the same style by a different maker.

I did not try the Nelson (I don't believe the Armoury is stocking it), but based on measurements and a little research it appears to be slimmer in the chest and possibly arms than the Mobster but similar in length.

1618023961308.png


1618024014716.png

Note the second photo above is deerskin.

Btw, if you haven't seen it there is a TFL thread on the Nelson: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-real-mccoy’s-joe-mccoy-nelson-30’s-sport-jacket.103712/

I don't think the 30s models are any more Fedora-tipping than what we here in the Japanese Repro thread have already committed ourselves to. Personally, I like the belt loops on the Mobster. I imagine these cuts worn with high-waisted, full-cut pants, as above, but obviously they can be incorporated into more modern fits, especially if sizing down in the Mobster or going with the slimmer Nelson. I maybe wouldn't pair them with skinny jeans.

I did not try the Bucos, but can do so tomorrow. I'm not opposed to moto style jackets, but it's definitely more of a modern, slim, Self-Edge kind of look.

Note that the Mobster, the Bucos I saw and I believe the Nelson, have a serge lining that is indicated as wool but basically feels like cotton jersey.
 

upsett1_spaghett1

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Not the season for it, but there's a new RMC peacoat on Marrkt in a 42:
For staples like a peacoat I buy out of season all the time, I know it will get worn a lot so if it's what I like why not if the price is right? I think everyone should buy a legit wool peacoat so if this one fits someone they should cop it. Forget about the seasons.
 

Mghart

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Thanks. I went back and read your prior posts on this.

Aside from fit, what are your thoughts on the 30s sport jacket style? Not sure how I feel about the belt loops on the Mobster. Also not sure if the Nelson is a bit plain? Are both models a little too Fedora Lounge-y? Having said that, they both seem like easy to wear, versatile pieces.

Guess the alternative is to go for something more moto with the zipper cuffs. Did you try on the Buco J-100 when you visited the Armoury?
The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.
 

whorishconsumer

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The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.
What makes a “30s style” jacket, you think? Button cuffs? Closed zipper? Use of deerhide due to scarcity of other leathers during the Great Depression? I would assume a boxy fit, but as you’ve noted the Nelson is slimmed down. That period photo above also appears trim.
 

XWT

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Imo if you want a black 30´s jacket like the Mobster, the superior option is the Freewheelers Mulholland. The pattern is absolutely beautiful. Order your usual sportcoat size. That is, if you find one.

I really wanted to love the Mobster, but W is right : it’s very boxy (perhaps too much so). Add to this the fact the belt loops are non sensical, I wouldn’t put too many efforts in chasing one, despite how beautiful I think it can look.
 
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Mghart

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What makes a “30s style” jacket, you think? Button cuffs? Closed zipper? Use of deerhide due to scarcity of other leathers during the Great Depression? I would assume a boxy fit, but as you’ve noted the Nelson is slimmed down. That period photo above also appears trim.
I suppose I’m only specifically referring to sport jacket or cossack styles that were a short hip length hem, button cuffs, slash pockets and with or without a chest pocket. I love the look of the old Sears Roebuck jackets like the Hercules or similar styles like the RMC Nelson. These kinds of jackets and A2s are the only ones I think I could pull off. I’ll never be a CR or DR person. There’s a few other aviation styles I like a lot though like this one

9B0E24AC-5554-4067-8D5C-F5B8DF965A3A.jpeg
 

whorishconsumer

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Imo if you want a black 30´s jacket like the Mobster, the superior option is the Freewheelers Mullholland. The pattern is absolutely beautiful. Oder your usual sportcoat size. That is, if you find one.

I really wanted to love the Mobster, but W is right : it’s very boxy (perhaps too much so). Add to this the fact the belt loops are non sensical, I wouldn’t put too many efforts in chasing one, despite how beautiful I think it can look.
I've seen discrepant measurements on the Mulholland between Corlection and Speedway. The former has the arms being too short while the length is comparatively long.
 

whorishconsumer

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@bry2000

Here's a picture of the Joe McCoy "Wayward" sports jacket from a 2010 issue of Free & Easy. Based on these pictures from TFL, it appears to have been a similar model to the Nelson, but without the side tabs. As you can see, fairly slim fit.

Free & Easy 121010 RMC Nelson.jpeg
 

moktabe

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Pointless asking a sensible question here.

Unless of course it entails an endless circle jerk over a fucking leather jacket
 
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bry2000

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From what I've seen, 30s style jackets are short in the torso and can trend toward boxy. That was certainly the case with the Mobster when I tried it on, which has the added factor of having arms that were quite wide. I have seen that some offset this by sizing down. So if you are on the shorter side this could be an option if looking for a more modern fit, such as below.

View attachment 1590522
Note this photo is for the same style by a different maker.

I did not try the Nelson (I don't believe the Armoury is stocking it), but based on measurements and a little research it appears to be slimmer in the chest and possibly arms than the Mobster but similar in length.

View attachment 1590523

View attachment 1590524
Note the second photo above is deerskin.

Btw, if you haven't seen it there is a TFL thread on the Nelson: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-real-mccoy’s-joe-mccoy-nelson-30’s-sport-jacket.103712/

I don't think the 30s models are any more Fedora-tipping than what we here in the Japanese Repro thread have already committed ourselves to. Personally, I like the belt loops on the Mobster. I imagine these cuts worn with high-waisted, full-cut pants, as above, but obviously they can be incorporated into more modern fits, especially if sizing down in the Mobster or going with the slimmer Nelson. I maybe wouldn't pair them with skinny jeans.

I did not try the Bucos, but can do so tomorrow. I'm not opposed to moto style jackets, but it's definitely more of a modern, slim, Self-Edge kind of look.

Note that the Mobster, the Bucos I saw and I believe the Nelson, have a serge lining that is indicated as wool but basically feels like cotton jersey.
Thanks for posting this.

I read through the linked TFL thread - very informative. I think the jacket fits the OP very well. The Nelson appears to fit TTS based on that OP's experience and the sizing advice provided by Standard & Strange. A little frustrating, but S&S' measurements differ from those listed on the RMC's website, enough so to cause hesitation. Extrapolating from the OP's self measurements and fit pics, I think TTS may work for me, but with a snugger fit. Too snug - I don't know; enough to size up one - unclear.

Based on the RMC's measurements, the mobster should fit TTS, no doubt.

The only comment I can make is on the Nelson which I did try on in the Tokyo RMC store in 2019. I've typically sized up from 40 to 42 in RMC outerwear and the Nelson was still quite trim, mostly in the chest/shoulder which while it fit me, I was hesitant to drop $2k to see how the jacket would break in. Its a beautiful though, and I think a classic example of a 30's sport jacket.

I don't think that particular model is too TFL, as I think SF equates that with the overly boxy Aero Highway man 'dad' jackets or very blousy A-2's. The Japanese patterns are usually trim enough to look right if the sizing works for you. Otherwise, the freewheelers Mulholland is another nice take on that style of jacket as well.
Interesting after I just wrote that the Nelson seems to fit TTS, you provide a real life example of possibly needing to size up. To clarify, your typical US jacket size is a 40 and you found the size 42 to fit trim?

I looked up the Freewheelers Mulholland -- also a beautiful jacket. Are there any USA stockists of the brand?

I suppose I’m only specifically referring to sport jacket or cossack styles that were a short hip length hem, button cuffs, slash pockets and with or without a chest pocket. I love the look of the old Sears Roebuck jackets like the Hercules or similar styles like the RMC Nelson. These kinds of jackets and A2s are the only ones I think I could pull off. I’ll never be a CR or DR person. There’s a few other aviation styles I like a lot though like this one

View attachment 1590711
The jacket in the pic is beautiful. I think the appeal of the 30's sport jacket style to me is that it seems to be relatively easy to incorporate into an existing wardrobe. It lacks the moto features which call for denim and boots. I can also see wearing the 30s style with fatigues, regular chinos, etc. I believe the Armoury has styled the jackets with donegal wool trousers, something I could not see wearing with a FCL double rider. But maybe I am wrong. But there is a fine line with this style between cool and boring dad vibes.

I also like the shorter length of these jackets. Many of the motos/DRs I have tried tend to be too long for me.

@bry2000

Here's a picture of the Joe McCoy "Wayward" sports jacket from a 2010 issue of Free & Easy. Based on these pictures from TFL, it appears to have been a similar model to the Nelson, but without the side tabs. As you can see, fairly slim fit.

View attachment 1590738
Cool pic. Thanks for sharing.
 

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