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The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

upsett1_spaghett1

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The one thing I'll say about the French Riviera/Talented Mr. Ripley vibe - which I dabbled in last Summer - is it's not easy to pull off with just one piece. Those types of flared-collar, knit polos lend themselves better to high-rise semi-formal trousers and loafers, floppy hats, etc. Obviously there's some wiggle room to modernize a little, but it does kind of paint you in the corner.

You might check out Christopher Pizarro's gram if you haven't already.


Or yea, Scott Fraser for the flowier version.

Thanks for lookin out. I tend toward high rise pants already, but I’ve also been slowly picking up some linen and other breezier fabric pants in preparation for summer.

Scott Fraser has a lot that appeals to me. I should probably try them out.

that other IG is one I hadn’t seen before, appreciate the suggestion :)
 

XWT

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Don't know if you guys know Play Lee but he's got one solid repro & vintage workwear Ig account.
 

ojaw

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So is ‘Jungle Cloth’ as used originally or by repro makers the same stuff as ‘German Moleskin’ as used by Leo Köhler and other Bundeswehr types? I ask because I have a bunch of Köhler stuff and from the online pics of Jungle Cloth they seem to be very similar. I love how the stuff wears but pretty much all the Bundeswehr trousers have cargo pockets and removing them is a pain and still leaves needle marks, especially in areas that were bar-tacked.
Thanks!
 

Mghart

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When can we expect RMC SS22?
It’s already been going on. They’ve been doing drops maybe bi-weekly or so from how I’ve seen it. Best to check the IG for both Japan and London for most recent stuff
 

Gustaf

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It’s already been going on. They’ve been doing drops maybe bi-weekly or so from how I’ve seen it. Best to check the IG for both Japan and London for most recent stuff
Thanks. I see that now. I’ve been waiting for the emails.
 

Mghart

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Thanks. I see that now. I’ve been waiting for the emails.
I wish I could say it’s been a good season so far but there really hasn’t been any standout pieces.
 

Lorcan7

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So is ‘Jungle Cloth’ as used originally or by repro makers the same stuff as ‘German Moleskin’ as used by Leo Köhler and other Bundeswehr types? I ask because I have a bunch of Köhler stuff and from the online pics of Jungle Cloth they seem to be very similar. I love how the stuff wears but pretty much all the Bundeswehr trousers have cargo pockets and removing them is a pain and still leaves needle marks, especially in areas that were bar-tacked.
Thanks!
Hmm don't thinks so. Jungle Cloth is like Bedford Cord its a ridged fabric. Moleskin is usually smooth/suede-like.

How prominent the cording is varies a bit between repro makers - Buzz Rickson's Jungle Cloth is pretty smooth and subtle, whereas Freewheelers is more noticeably ridged. The 'SPL' versions of RMC's deck jackets also have more exaggerated cording.

Freewheelers:
 

ojaw

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Hmm don't thinks so. Jungle Cloth is like Bedford Cord its a ridged fabric. Moleskin is usually smooth/suede-like.

How prominent the cording is varies a bit between repro makers - Buzz Rickson's Jungle Cloth is pretty smooth and subtle, whereas Freewheelers is more noticeably ridged. The 'SPL' versions of RMC's deck jackets also have more exaggerated cording.

Freewheelers:
Thanks, I specified ’German’ moleskin - it’s nothing like the real thing, a lot of people don’t really consider it a true moleskin.
It does have small ridges, akin to bedford but not as prominent.
 

ojaw

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Uniform Bridge - it’s South Korean I know, but not sure if there’s a thread for that : )
Any opinions on the brand?
 

Lorcan7

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Thanks, I specified ’German’ moleskin - it’s nothing like the real thing, a lot of people don’t really consider it a true moleskin.
It does have small ridges, akin to bedford but not as prominent.
I think German Moleskin is maybe woven slightly differently to Bedford cord/ Jungle Cloth ie. its still a satin weave like regular moleskin not a grosgrain (which is warp-faced rather than weft-faced... getting beyond my fabric knowledge really). I guess the German stuff still looks sorta similar though? Might have to try out some old Bundeswehr pants sometime.
 

ojaw

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I think German Moleskin is maybe woven slightly differently to Bedford cord/ Jungle Cloth ie. its still a satin weave like regular moleskin not a grosgrain (which is warp-faced rather than weft-faced... getting beyond my fabric knowledge really). I guess the German stuff still looks sorta similar though? Might have to try out some old Bundeswehr pants sometime.
I think it’s high time someone with a workwear aesthetic gets a hold of this cloth and starts taking my money.
 

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