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The Ideal Blazer?

godofcoffee

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Hey folks,

So I'm considering having a blazer made. Standard serge, brass buttons (obvs), but aside from that I'm not sure which details are desirable. I'm thinking
- double vents
- working buttonholes
- patchless pockets

And, if I'm feeling ambitious,
- slanted pockets
- ticket pocket

What do you folks think? Are some of these details unnecessarily untraditional? (E.g. working buttonholes)? What features would your ideal blazer have?
 

Harold falcon

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3 roll 2.
Natural shoulder.
Hook vent.

I'd pass on the slanted pockets. And unless you're actually planning to use the ticket pocket for something it's a needless and silly detail.
 

godofcoffee

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Shi'ite, I didn't even consider 3 roll 2 - that would be the tradly-awesome approach, of course (combined with hook vents). I agree about the pockets, it was a bit of an affectation on my part.
 

Gus

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I'm having one made next weekend. It will be a lightweight cashmere/wool twill. 3 patch pockets, 3 internal pockets, partial lining, horn buttons in brownish tones. Soft shoulder. 3-2 button.

Being bespoke it will come with working button holes. It will be double vents.
 

MBreinin

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3/2 Roll, triple patch pockets, double vented, soft shoulders.

Basically, the SF approved look.


Now, if you want to do a more structured blazer, then I am in favor of the flapped hacking pockets with ticket pocket. I have one like this and I dig it very much.

Mike
 

Twotone

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I would focus more on fit rather than the details. Your list looks good to me. I would not, however, do a ticket pocket on a blazer. As the name implies, a ticket pocket is for your theater ticket. You would not wear a blazer to the theater (at least I hope not). Slanted pockets are also a bit out of character for a blazer as well. I prefer silver or pewter buttons over horn to give a blazer more of a classic look, but that's just personal preference. Good luck with it and post photos when it's finished.
 

js4design

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I know it goes against the kool-aid here, but 2 button 3 patch single vent would be my ideal. And I would do changeable buttons so I could switch in brass, horn, and MOP.
 

godofcoffee

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Originally Posted by Twotone
I would focus more on fit rather than the details. Your list looks good to me. I would not, however, do a ticket pocket on a blazer. As the name implies, a ticket pocket is for your theater ticket. You would not wear a blazer to the theater (at least I hope not). Slanted pockets are also a bit out of character for a blazer as well. I prefer silver or pewter buttons over horn to give a blazer more of a classic look, but that's just personal preference. Good luck with it and post photos when it's finished.

Haha, most opera houses I've been to would regard a blazer and flannels as par for the course, except on opening/closing night. The Viennese Staatsoper is the only exception I could think of.

Originally Posted by js4design
I know it goes against the kool-aid here, but 2 button 3 patch single vent would be my ideal. And I would do changeable buttons so I could switch in brass, horn, and MOP.

Changeable buttons - that sounds interesting. Is that a form of button where you can attach different facings depending on the occasion?
 

Gus

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In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons. I wore one, with brass buttons, throughout the late 80's until the mid 90's. It was my go-to jacket that I took everywhere on business and for social occasions. There is something elegant and stylish about them. I know they are out-of-favor now (the brass button ones anyway) but one with grey flannels and a tie or jeans and an open collared shirt has a certain look that will never, ever be confused with a Security Guard. Maybe it is that military look or the way it suppresses the waist and tends to accent the shoulders?

I had a friend I met in 1978 who was from London. He owned a social stationery store on Walton Street. The DBBB was about the only jacket he ever wore. He always looked like the perfect gentleman and stylish. I was inspired by him. The last time I saw him, in 2004 he still had the same look and was as well dressed as anyone in The City. A real class act.
 

Bill Smith

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I have my ideal blazer, a navy blue Fitzgerald from BB with pewter buttons.
 

godofcoffee

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Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons. I wore one, with brass buttons, throughout the late 80's until the mid 90's. It was my go-to jacket that I took everywhere on business and for social occasions. There is something elegant and stylish about them. I know they are out-of-favor now (the brass button ones anyway) but one with grey flannels and a tie or jeans and an open collared shirt has a certain look that will never, ever be confused with a Security Guard. Maybe it is that military look or the way it suppresses the waist and tends to accent the shoulders?

I had a friend I met in 1978 who was from London. He owned a social stationery store on Walton Street. The DBBB was about the only jacket he ever wore. He always looked like the perfect gentleman and stylish. I was inspired by him. The last time I saw him, in 2004 he still had the same look and was as well dressed as anyone in The City. A real class act.


I've also struggled heavily with this. DBs always seemed just to costume-y to me. I'm not a member of any yacht clubs, I've never been in the navy - the whole getup reminds me unpleasantly of Thurston Howell.
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
I'm having one made next weekend. It will be a lightweight cashmere/wool twill. 3 patch pockets, 3 internal pockets, partial lining, horn buttons in brownish tones. Soft shoulder. 3-2 button.

Depending on the color, 2 patch + welt might be more versatile.

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons.


I think a summer weight blue DB might be my next commission.
 

ktrp

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Blue blazer is likely my next target. Unsure as to whether I'll go more summer weight and half lined or all season.

Probably 2 patch + welt, though I'm not 100% on that.

3 roll 2(.5), double vent.

I like natural shoulders when I see them, but I suspect I'm better off in something structured.

I always thought a ticket pocket was for your train ticket.
 

Gus

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Originally Posted by godofcoffee
I've also struggled heavily with this. DBs always seemed just to costume-y to me. I'm not a member of any yacht clubs, I've never been in the navy - the whole getup reminds me unpleasantly of Thurston Howell.
Well, I think if you ditch the hat, ascot and crest you are OK
(BTW: I can't find a single photo of Thurston Howell III in a DBBB. Yet he is always mentioned on SF when DBBB come up. DBBB are getting a bumb rap I tell ya)
 

Gus

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Originally Posted by poorsod
Depending on the color, 2 patch + welt might be more versatile.


I operate in a casual art and design driven world so a 3 patch is easy to pull off in a sea of T shirts and OCBDs.
 

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