The Ideal Blazer?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by godofcoffee, Jan 15, 2011.

  1. godofcoffee

    godofcoffee Senior member

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    Hey folks,

    So I'm considering having a blazer made. Standard serge, brass buttons (obvs), but aside from that I'm not sure which details are desirable. I'm thinking
    - double vents
    - working buttonholes
    - patchless pockets

    And, if I'm feeling ambitious,
    - slanted pockets
    - ticket pocket

    What do you folks think? Are some of these details unnecessarily untraditional? (E.g. working buttonholes)? What features would your ideal blazer have?
     
  2. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    3 roll 2.
    Natural shoulder.
    Hook vent.

    I'd pass on the slanted pockets. And unless you're actually planning to use the ticket pocket for something it's a needless and silly detail.
     
  3. godofcoffee

    godofcoffee Senior member

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    Shi'ite, I didn't even consider 3 roll 2 - that would be the tradly-awesome approach, of course (combined with hook vents). I agree about the pockets, it was a bit of an affectation on my part.
     
  4. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm having one made next weekend. It will be a lightweight cashmere/wool twill. 3 patch pockets, 3 internal pockets, partial lining, horn buttons in brownish tones. Soft shoulder. 3-2 button.

    Being bespoke it will come with working button holes. It will be double vents.
     
  5. MBreinin

    MBreinin Senior member

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    3/2 Roll, triple patch pockets, double vented, soft shoulders.

    Basically, the SF approved look. [​IMG]

    Now, if you want to do a more structured blazer, then I am in favor of the flapped hacking pockets with ticket pocket. I have one like this and I dig it very much.

    Mike
     
  6. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

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    I would focus more on fit rather than the details. Your list looks good to me. I would not, however, do a ticket pocket on a blazer. As the name implies, a ticket pocket is for your theater ticket. You would not wear a blazer to the theater (at least I hope not). Slanted pockets are also a bit out of character for a blazer as well. I prefer silver or pewter buttons over horn to give a blazer more of a classic look, but that's just personal preference. Good luck with it and post photos when it's finished.
     
  7. js4design

    js4design Senior member

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    I know it goes against the kool-aid here, but 2 button 3 patch single vent would be my ideal. And I would do changeable buttons so I could switch in brass, horn, and MOP.
     
  8. godofcoffee

    godofcoffee Senior member

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    I would focus more on fit rather than the details. Your list looks good to me. I would not, however, do a ticket pocket on a blazer. As the name implies, a ticket pocket is for your theater ticket. You would not wear a blazer to the theater (at least I hope not). Slanted pockets are also a bit out of character for a blazer as well. I prefer silver or pewter buttons over horn to give a blazer more of a classic look, but that's just personal preference. Good luck with it and post photos when it's finished.

    Haha, most opera houses I've been to would regard a blazer and flannels as par for the course, except on opening/closing night. The Viennese Staatsoper is the only exception I could think of.

    I know it goes against the kool-aid here, but 2 button 3 patch single vent would be my ideal. And I would do changeable buttons so I could switch in brass, horn, and MOP.

    Changeable buttons - that sounds interesting. Is that a form of button where you can attach different facings depending on the occasion?
     
  9. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons. I wore one, with brass buttons, throughout the late 80's until the mid 90's. It was my go-to jacket that I took everywhere on business and for social occasions. There is something elegant and stylish about them. I know they are out-of-favor now (the brass button ones anyway) but one with grey flannels and a tie or jeans and an open collared shirt has a certain look that will never, ever be confused with a Security Guard. Maybe it is that military look or the way it suppresses the waist and tends to accent the shoulders?

    I had a friend I met in 1978 who was from London. He owned a social stationery store on Walton Street. The DBBB was about the only jacket he ever wore. He always looked like the perfect gentleman and stylish. I was inspired by him. The last time I saw him, in 2004 he still had the same look and was as well dressed as anyone in The City. A real class act.
     
  10. Bill Smith

    Bill Smith Senior member

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    I have my ideal blazer, a navy blue Fitzgerald from BB with pewter buttons.
     
  11. godofcoffee

    godofcoffee Senior member

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    In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons. I wore one, with brass buttons, throughout the late 80's until the mid 90's. It was my go-to jacket that I took everywhere on business and for social occasions. There is something elegant and stylish about them. I know they are out-of-favor now (the brass button ones anyway) but one with grey flannels and a tie or jeans and an open collared shirt has a certain look that will never, ever be confused with a Security Guard. Maybe it is that military look or the way it suppresses the waist and tends to accent the shoulders?

    I had a friend I met in 1978 who was from London. He owned a social stationery store on Walton Street. The DBBB was about the only jacket he ever wore. He always looked like the perfect gentleman and stylish. I was inspired by him. The last time I saw him, in 2004 he still had the same look and was as well dressed as anyone in The City. A real class act.


    I've also struggled heavily with this. DBs always seemed just to costume-y to me. I'm not a member of any yacht clubs, I've never been in the navy - the whole getup reminds me unpleasantly of Thurston Howell.
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I'm having one made next weekend. It will be a lightweight cashmere/wool twill. 3 patch pockets, 3 internal pockets, partial lining, horn buttons in brownish tones. Soft shoulder. 3-2 button.

    Depending on the color, 2 patch + welt might be more versatile.

    In spite of my earlier post, I still think about getting a double breasted navy blazer with horn buttons.


    I think a summer weight blue DB might be my next commission.
     
  13. ktrp

    ktrp Senior member

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    Blue blazer is likely my next target. Unsure as to whether I'll go more summer weight and half lined or all season.

    Probably 2 patch + welt, though I'm not 100% on that.

    3 roll 2(.5), double vent.

    I like natural shoulders when I see them, but I suspect I'm better off in something structured.

    I always thought a ticket pocket was for your train ticket.
     
  14. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've also struggled heavily with this. DBs always seemed just to costume-y to me. I'm not a member of any yacht clubs, I've never been in the navy - the whole getup reminds me unpleasantly of Thurston Howell.
    Well, I think if you ditch the hat, ascot and crest you are OK [​IMG] (BTW: I can't find a single photo of Thurston Howell III in a DBBB. Yet he is always mentioned on SF when DBBB come up. DBBB are getting a bumb rap I tell ya) [​IMG]
     
  15. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depending on the color, 2 patch + welt might be more versatile.


    I operate in a casual art and design driven world so a 3 patch is easy to pull off in a sea of T shirts and OCBDs.
     

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