The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    I cuffed all my incos.
     


  2. lucid

    lucid New Member

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    Hello. I am looking for a good cost effective tailor. BUT...

    The ones that I have been to in the past (Abe's Tailor shop, New York Tailor on Kenmare st, Stanton Tailor, and another place in midtown that was a bit pricey) have all been deficient in quality and workmanship. But most importantly, they had did not understand how clothing should fit: everything is boxy, long sleeves and pants, cavernous chests .

    I need someone that can handle Dior, Hedi Slimane, patrik ervell shapes without explanation. If they are totally ignorant of style they always ruin the simplest jobs - Simple jobs from hemming and tapering pants with a cigarette leg, to a complex job like taking in the back and waist on snug blazer.

    The names on the board.. LNC, Cardelino, Wilfred's... Do they have any basic sense of style? And if that's not an option, how would I correctly word my instructions for something simple like tapering and cuffing pants with a slim fit and thom browne hem? how would I translate that to someone who cuts suits in the present day baggy brooks brothers style?

    any ideas?
    Thank you very much.
     


  3. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    Hello. I am looking for a good cost effective tailor. BUT...

    The ones that I have been to in the past (Abe's Tailor shop, New York Tailor on Kenmare st, Stanton Tailor, and another place in midtown that was a bit pricey) have all been deficient in quality and workmanship. But most importantly, they had did not understand how clothing should fit: everything is boxy, long sleeves and pants, cavernous chests .

    I need someone that can handle Dior, Hedi Slimane, patrik ervell shapes without explanation. If they are totally ignorant of style they always ruin the simplest jobs - Simple jobs from hemming and tapering pants with a cigarette leg, to a complex job like taking in the back and waist on snug blazer.

    The names on the board.. LNC, Cardelino, Wilfred's... Do they have any basic sense of style? And if that's not an option, how would I correctly word my instructions for something simple like tapering and cuffing pants with a slim fit and thom browne hem? how would I translate that to someone who cuts suits in the present day baggy brooks brothers style?

    any ideas?
    Thank you very much.


    I can't address Wilfred. As for Cardelino and LNC, I'd say they might be able to do what you are looking for, but with a few caveats. For Cardelino, you'd need to make sure dad does the work and you will need to be very specific about what you want. For LNC, you don't have a dad vs son issue, but you will again need to be very specific about what you want. Neither will wantonly disregard a customer's directions, but they do have a comfort zone that they will each default to without specific direction to the contrary. That comfort zone for both defaults much more to proportions and styles typical of classically tailored clothing, not fashion styling and proportions - very good for altering Paul Stuart, RLPL, Isaia and many of the other names usually bandied about here, perhaps less so for more fashion-oriented labels. My guess is that both have the technical competence to do what you are looking for (they're both good to very good and know how to tailor clothes), but since you appear to be looking for something specific that deviates from what they typically do, the onus would be on you to direct them appropriately. Perhaps someone else is placed to address Wilfred on this matter.
     


  4. falsestart

    falsestart Senior member

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    I would agree on the assessment with Cardelino, work with the dad, and be very clear how you want it to fit. He's done some very slim alterations for me - some I knew he felt were to much but he did what I asked. I found him pleasant and the work quite good.
     


  5. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    If you tell the guy at LNC exactly what you want, shouldn't be a problem. I had two blazers altered very slim and he even commented that he liked the look on me.
     


  6. lucid

    lucid New Member

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    Thank you, that is certainly helpful!

    How would you communicate slim cut fashion to these guys? What special instructions or directions do you give them about tapering and hemming legs? Do you give them pictures? wear pants to the shop that fit the way you want them to? I have no experience with the construction of clothes, so I am not sure what to say exactly, anything technical?

    Also, how do I ask for the father by name - as opposed to "is your father here"?

    Thanks again!
     


  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Just show up and explain. Insist on getting everything pinned - not only chalked. It's important so you can visualize the expected result of the alterations.

    Wilfred can definitely do whatever you want. I'm unfortunately not skinny so I haven't personally experienced what you're looking for but have been there dozens of times and seen people with very slim/fashion cut suits getting exactly what you're looking for. Wilfred himself likes classic cuts more but he wouldn't try to veer you away from what you want.
     


  8. davidsj

    davidsj Senior member

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    I've had my pants slimmed by both the son and father at Cardelino. To be honest I prefer the son. He cuts my stuff very slim the way I like them, and did a damn good job too. The father does well too, but definitely not as slim as I'd wanted, but also not boxy and ridiculous looking either. I actually asked the father to make things slimmer, he kind of was hesitant, but he did what I asked, and it actually ended up being too slim/looking awkward on me! I wish I had just followed his advice.

    For all my work clothes they go to the father. My casual pants I prefer the son.

    I get all my pants altered (over 20 pairs) so Cardelino's price point is the only real option for me.
     


  9. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    Just show up and explain. Insist on getting everything pinned - not only chalked. It's important so you can visualize the expected result of the alterations.

    Wilfred can definitely do whatever you want. I'm unfortunately not skinny so I haven't personally experienced what you're looking for but have been there dozens of times and seen people with very slim/fashion cut suits getting exactly what you're looking for. Wilfred himself likes classic cuts more but he wouldn't try to veer you away from what you want.


    I agree with the above wholeheartedly - with (it sounds like) all three of the mentioned tailors, just explain in as specific detail as you can and don't be afraid to have them repin if you don't like what you see. FWIW, it also sounds like all three make a habit of pinning alterations - LNC does (just took in four pairs of pants this am and all were pinned without me asking) and IIRC Cardelino does as well. It also sounds like all three will try to accomodate your wishes, despite their seemingly similar comfort zones.
     


  10. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    I've had my pants slimmed by both the son and father at Cardelino. To be honest I prefer the son. He cuts my stuff very slim the way I like them, and did a damn good job too. The father does well too, but definitely not as slim as I'd wanted, but also not boxy and ridiculous looking either. I actually asked the father to make things slimmer, he kind of was hesitant, but he did what I asked, and it actually ended up being too slim/looking awkward on me! I wish I had just followed his advice.

    For all my work clothes they go to the father. My casual pants I prefer the son.

    I get all my pants altered (over 20 pairs) so Cardelino's price point is the only real option for me.


    To be fair to Cardelino, I've only ever taken suits to them and have had both the son and the father work on them. The dad's work was never an issue, and the son's work was fine on the pants, but he sort of made a hash out of a nice Paul Stuart suit jacket - the fit is ok, but at the cost of a weirdly out of balance pattern. I gave the suit away since it bothered me too much. I've never had issues at LNC (and have had them do lots of stuff), but if you go, just realize that 1) the shop is in a basement, and 2) the guy doesn't speak English very well (although he understands pretty much everything I've ever said to him and I don't speak Cantonese) so if you're uncomfortable with that, you may want to head elsewhere...
     


  11. borntoolate

    borntoolate Member

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    My Wilfred's experience - I needed to get sleeves of a jacket shortened at the shoulder because it had functioning buttonholes. After reading this thread I decided to try out Wilfred's - during the consultation they seemed to know what they were doing so I was pretty comfortable with it.

    When I went to pick the jacket up a week later the work at the shoulder was ok but it was about 1" too short, which the tailor (Manny) acknowledged and offered a redo without me even having to ask. I confirmed the redo would be done at the shoulder which was agreed to and went on my way. So far ok, for something like this I kind of expect this to happen from time to time.

    When I went to pick it up the second time, I found that they had let it out about 1" at the sleeve. Meaning about 2" from the sleeve edge to the center of the first buttonhole, which looks ridiculous. When I asked about it, Manny affirmed that it was taken from the shoulder. I then - 1) indicated no way is that the proper length to the first buttonhole and 2) pointed out the obvious work that had been done in opening up the lining at the end of the sleeve. He insisted it had been taken out at the shoulder, which required the work I was pointing out.

    Normally I would have insisted a redo but my life is kind of hectic right now - so I decided I didn't have the energy to argue the guy into doing a second redo, the faith in him doing it right (since he wasn't even admitting a mistake) nor the time to go there a fourth time. Under the premise of throwing good money after bad.

    So my current strategy is to find a matching button and get someone else to open a fourth button hole (which is going to be challenge - if anyone has recommendations on where to get buttons in the city, they would be much appreciated).

    To be honest I'm used to having these stupid kinds of arguments with tailors, I was just surprised to have the same thing happen at a place so lauded. Anyway, my two cents
     


  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    My Wilfred's experience - I needed to get sleeves of a jacket shortened at the shoulder because it had functioning buttonholes. After reading this thread I decided to try out Wilfred's - during the consultation they seemed to know what they were doing so I was pretty comfortable with it.

    When I went to pick the jacket up a week later the work at the shoulder was ok but it was about 1" too short, which the tailor (Manny) acknowledged and offered a redo without me even having to ask. I confirmed the redo would be done at the shoulder which was agreed to and went on my way. So far ok, for something like this I kind of expect this to happen from time to time.

    When I went to pick it up the second time, I found that they had let it out about 1" at the sleeve. Meaning about 2" from the sleeve edge to the center of the first buttonhole, which looks ridiculous. When I asked about it, Manny affirmed that it was taken from the shoulder. I then - 1) indicated no way is that the proper length to the first buttonhole and 2) pointed out the obvious work that had been done in opening up the lining at the end of the sleeve. He insisted it had been taken out at the shoulder, which required the work I was pointing out.

    Normally I would have insisted a redo but my life is kind of hectic right now - so I decided I didn't have the energy to argue the guy into doing a second redo, the faith in him doing it right (since he wasn't even admitting a mistake) nor the time to go there a fourth time. Under the premise of throwing good money after bad.

    So my current strategy is to find a matching button and get someone else to open a fourth button hole (which is going to be challenge - if anyone has recommendations on where to get buttons in the city, they would be much appreciated).

    To be honest I'm used to having these stupid kinds of arguments with tailors, I was just surprised to have the same thing happen at a place so lauded. Anyway, my two cents

    disaster! quelle dommage!
     


  13. ginger84

    ginger84 Active Member

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    I have several Lacoste polos that I'd like to have taken in. I usually get work done at Wilfred's, but they quoted me $40 a shirt for the job. Can anybody recommend someone else who could do this in NYC, to good effect and at a lesser price?
     


  14. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Who would you trust with altering sleeve pitch.
     


  15. lucid

    lucid New Member

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    I went to Cardelino's. They tapered a few pants, took in waists, and fixed some fabric tears. I am pleased with the shop. Very helpful vibe, patient, pinned up the legs on fitting, and were not annoyed when they had to redo the waist. Bill was under $50 for about 4 jobs. Thanks for the referral!
     


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