The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[Chronic_Zero]

Anyone has a recommend tailor for a pair of trousers? Would be great if it's under 2.5k Looked into the anthology, the gaudery, prologue but their starting price are a bit beyond my budget. I have a few pairs of trousers made from Germain tailor which I quite like but wanted to explore something new.

I don't have a personal experience with them yet, but you may wanna check out the refinery too. Their trousers start at HK1380, while Dream Bespoke's ones start at HKD1860.

 

[sadkfjaskfaj]

Had a more or less similar experience. Paid HK$1200 for a pair of Carlo Barbera High Twist 140s trousers.

1st fitting > the workshop has not prepared my trousers....
2nd fitting > got things measured.
3rd fitting (supposed to be final product) > Waist too tight, trousers too long, slightly too wide. The length was unacceptable because that was clearly noted in during the fitting.
4th fitting > length and width fixed. Waist not fixed. The proprietor said he did not write down my request last time....
5th visit > completed.

This is bull ****.

lmao yup. Allan Tom is trash. The filthy little proprietor (Paul) is hilariously incompetent.
Not surprised that when I spoke to a prominent HK tailoring page they told me that they got tons of bad feedback about Allan Tom.

Sticking with Lee Baron from now on. Competent, never fails to deliver on time. Nice guys too. Got a few more shirts and trousers made with Lee Baron and dealing with their professionalism is night and day as compared with the filth that is Allan Tom.

 

[Nnicnic]

Here are the photos of my cotton trousers made from Germain tailor. If I recall it correctly, the price starts from 1500hkd (mine was1700hkd)Not a perfect pair but decent. Only issue was they are extremely slow. If you don't have patience, this might not be the place for you.

 

[takashi78]

Anyone know how much Ascot Chang charges for bespoke trousers?

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I assume you are asking about CMT? They might have further increased their price in 2020, but here is the price list for 2019 (I have asked the branch manager for permission before taking the photo for sharing):

 

[RogerC]

Sticking with Lee Baron from now on. Competent, never fails to deliver on time. Nice guys too. Got a few more shirts and trousers made with Lee Baron and dealing with their professionalism is night and day as compared with the filth that is Allan Tom.

I’ve been dealing with Peter Lee for a decade now. Every so often, I’ve been tempted to more high profile and expensive options in HK, but even at twice the price, these didn’t necessarily deliver a notable improvement in fit. In some case, they were worse. In that time, Peter seems to have upped his game quite a bit in terms of modern cut. I’m experimenting now with prologue because I like the different styling, and am not sure it would be Peter’s thing, but for the classic stuff I’m sticking with him from now on, me thinks. (Except if I ever win the lottery and can go Steed or so). By the way, he does trousers for 850 HKD plus fabric.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I assume you are asking about CMT? They might have further increased their price in 2020, but here is the price list for 2019 (I have asked the branch manager for permission before taking the photo for sharing):

View attachment 1341722

And, on top of the not-so-inexpensive pricing, may I add that Ascot Chang’s trousers are lacklustre compared to even average tailors - based on the suit I have from them (using fabric from their bunch, that is).

Shirts remain their house speciality. Jackets are passable (I have a few). But trousers, um...

 

[Memo]

I'd like to share with you guys my purchase of a Prologue suit in light grey Prince of Wales check from their sample sale last summer.

View attachment 1341066

(suit jacket only, trousers from mymysterioustailor)​

It was a sample (so not cut to my measurement).

However, the fit of the jacket was surprisingly good: Shoulders and collars spot-on, firmly hugging my neck line. There is no shoulder padding, and the canvas is relatively lightweight. Realised in spalla camicia (before their mark II house cut introduced in the end of 2019). Chest has enough drape (I guess both the cutting and the fabric being Fresco helps), lapel roll decent. You might see from the photo that the skirt 'flares' out a bit, but then it might have been my jacket was unbuttoned and my arms pushing the quarters away - I need to check IRL next time. Overall the balance is well managed.
View attachment 1341067

(sorry I could only screenshot this one of my IG story as I can't find my original photo)​

Make of the jacket meets my expectation of quality MTM / what they call 'semi-bespoke', with hand-attached sleeves and quarter lining. The inseams that can be seen in the quarterly-lined inside are also neatly tape-covered. No Milanese buttonholes (but they do offer such option).

The trousers are bit too slim for me, and are not worn here. Its original leg opening was around 20cm, so I let out all the allowance and widened to ~21cm, yet it was still too slim for me (but then I myself have unusually bulky thighs and calves, and my legs are far from straight).

Having said that, the alternation tailor (who is a well-regarded alternation sifu on 16/F in Mirador Building, who alters a good number of high end bespoke suits like Liverano and good RTW like Ring Jacket) did mention that there was a decent amount of hand work in there. I saw button closure and buttoned turn-up.

I purchased it for HKD 4,600 i.e. half price in last summer, which was, in Jerry's words, 'manageable money'. Their price for semi-bespoke started from 11,000 before Feb, after which they increased price.

BTW the shirt is from Peter Lee, tie Drake's for the Armoury.

Hope this is of help to those who are eyeing a commission!

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

Great review. I was tempted to give Prologue a go in future, as I have had some good experience with MTM elsewhere. Given the relatively high price of Prologue (which is MTM), would you say it is still great value compared to many of the strong bespoke tailors like Dream?

 

[takashi78]

And, on top of the not-so-inexpensive pricing, may I add that Ascot Chang’s trousers are lacklustre compared to even average tailors - based on the suit I have from them (using fabric from their bunch, that is).

Shirts remain their house speciality. Jackets are passable (I have a few). But trousers, um...

Thanks for your information and honest feedback.
I am referring to AC's trousers with maybe a wool fabric.

I haven't tried enough tailors in HK as usually i am only there for 3-4 days holiday max.
I have tried another modern MTM shop in HK and also for the fun of it had a sports jacket made by AC bespoke.

The AC jacket by far fitted more comfortably and didn't have some of the issues that the MTM piece had.
I simply asked AC to make me a fitting jacket based off my shirt pattern measurements.
Did 2x fittings while in HK and the jacket was shipped to me.

Thus was thinking of trying their trousers next.
Reason i went with them was the great great customer service and flexibility. Maybe having your own factory helps LOL.
And i know i am paying much extra for that.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

@takashi78 I have to agree that their customer service is superb. Some may think we are patronising the real estate developers or tycoons (by helping Ascot Chang pay rent), but as @PekingRoadHK pointed out Ascot Chang have their own workshop, so it is also not something the wishful suit hunter lurking at Mirador can replicate.

Ascot Chang’s jacket uses a very nice canvass, which they explained to me was made entirely from imported material. It made my unlined jacket very soft and comfortable.

That’s why, even with their somewhat mediocre trousers, I did NOT ask for “refund” or “alternation until the end of the universe”. I still enjoyed the suit - it is made by people I enjoy working with, who work for a family supporting the dying craft. ?

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Great review. I was tempted to give Prologue a go in future, as I have had some good experience with MTM elsewhere. Given the relatively high price of Prologue (which is MTM), would you say it is still great value compared to many of the strong bespoke tailors like Dream?

I’d say first you find your favoured cut:
• Dream is quite English, even with softer shoulders they lean towards bellied lapels (disclaimer: I never visited them)
• Prologue is Florentine lapels / gorges and quarters married to soft Neapolitan shoulders - albeit a bit extended than how the modern Naples tailors would cut
• But then if you are comfortable that you can communicate your desired cut with the house, and that they are comfortable to deliver, then happy-happy

Then judge the ‘value’ from your own utility function
Quality is very objective (e.g. it’s either a full canvas suit with hand-padded lapels or it’s not; the collar either hugs your neck firmly or it doesn’t not —— that’s quite manefest). Value, on the other hand, is subjective from my POV.

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

 

[takashi78]

@takashi78 I have to agree that their customer service is superb. Some may think we are patronising the real estate developers or tycoons (by helping Ascot Chang pay rent), but as @PekingRoadHK pointed out Ascot Chang have their own workshop, so it is also not something the wishful suit hunter lurking at Mirador can replicate.

Ascot Chang’s jacket uses a very nice canvass, which they explained to me was made entirely from imported material. It made my unlined jacket very soft and comfortable.

That’s why, even with their somewhat mediocre trousers, I did NOT ask for “refund” or “alternation until the end of the universe”. I still enjoyed the suit - it is made by people I enjoy working with, who work for a family supporting the dying craft. ?

Are you able to post some fit pics of your trousers?
Or some pics showing the workmanship and make?

 

[shirtingfantasy]

@takashi78 - fine with posting pictures, although I tend to think the SF community has been too reliant on static pictures (in judging the makers’ ability to deliver good fit). It depends a lot on the communication, and what doesn’t work for me could very well work magic for you.

The first picture is my Zegna 14milmil jacket. Chi-Keung Sifu (who later retired) is on the right of the picture. You can appreciate that the shoulder lines are quite clean, with more open quarters than they normally do (as I requested); it is my workhorse jacket. Zegna is good if you pay the price premium.



After having a total of three jackets from them, I decided that I may as well try their trousers. So I ordered a boring navy suit (Carlo Barbera Super 130S from the Loo’s bunch at Ascot Chang).



To my disappointment, the final trousers did not improve significantly over this fitting version. Overall I still find the suit acceptable as it is comfortable to wear - there are younger makers that make jackets and pants with a superb clean look on photo, but are uncomfortable as they are restrictive.



I will try to take some pictures of the inside finishing, pick-stitching and the reverse side of the lapel for you.

 

[takashi78]

@shirtingfantasy
Thanks for the explanation as always.
After a few orders, your jacket pattern should be quite spot on.
Seems AC is having quite a few sifu retiring lately. Hope the newer generation is just as good.

I agree in the current insta generation, pics only look good while standing still....or being staged.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

I will keep posting updates to this issue at the bottom.

View attachment 1148190 View attachment 1148191 Hi all!

This is my first post in SF.

I recently made a white shirt at Ascot Chang (Princes), the fabric is Thomas Mason Royal Twill 120 and I requested for a split yoke.

Got my shirt after a week, straight away I noticed there’s something wrong with the yoke, picture attached, basically the twill pattern doesn’t match on both side, the gradient on the left side is much steeper than the right. (Apologies if I’m using the wrong terminology, I’m still learning)

I asked them right away about this, they had a hard time looking at such fine pattern and told me they will get their tailor to look into it for me. After a few days, got a call from them and they told me their tailor tried his best to match the left yoke with the right yoke but failed. They said there is something wrong with the fabric itself and if they match the left with the right, something else will not go wrong, colour will be different etc, made it super technical, too hard for me to understand with my shallow knowledge. So I said ok, and the shirt was given back to me without alteration.

But it doesn’t end there, I started asking around, asking knowledgeable friends about it, learning more about it. They all told me it is a basic thing for the tailor to match the left and the right yoke and that this is an amateur mistake which is hard to fix because it isn’t as easy as to take one piece out to replace with another, any excuses or explanations given are just to cover up the mistake. And, even if there are really problems with the fabric itself resulting in not being able to be made in accordance to my specifications, I should be told before hand about it, not for me to find out and ask.

Learning this, I have brought this up with Ascot Change again, telling them it shouldn’t be like this, asking them to fix. They told me to do whole piece yoke in the future to avoid this issue, they said split yoke always have alignment issues and that most people are ok with it, and not many people will look into details like I do. Seriously?

What do you all think about this?
Thanks everyone!!

**Update #1 They just called and said the split yoke was made this way purposely to avoid colour variation.

**Update #2 I went back to their store with the shirt, they have another piece of fabric cut out already which they say is a mirrored image of the right yoke and placed it on the left side to show me the colour variation. To my eye, in their lighting condition, I see no difference, no different then the current pictured configuration. So I have told them I want mirrored yoke despite whatever reason they throw at me for not doing it at the first place. So lets see the result later.

At the risk of being pedantically technical, let me illustrate the directions of the yarns to help analyse this:

First draw out the yellow lines following your twill lines.

Then draw the white lines in 45 degrees to the pink (remembering a twill is a diagonal weave) as wefts.

And draw the pink links perpendicular to the white ones, so now the pink ones are warps. Now do you see the angles of the pink lines more or less same on both sides of the split yoke (alpha and beta - not exactly identical but close enough for a plain fabric yeh? After all a split toke serves the purpose to shift the horizontal tension at the shoulders and upper back from along the yarns to diagonally, thereby giving the fabric more stretch where it needs)

I only learnt that some fabrics - though plain - have directions, and when both sides of the paper pattern are cut by folding the fabric twice, issue may arise.

(But then what do I know about fabrics and cutting? In terms of practica experience, close to nothing.)

Cheers from your keyboard tailoring nerd,
Royal_Airforce