The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    bespokekiwi: it's a bit hard to see anything from the pics of the front, as they're too dark. the jacket's just a black blob. When taking fit pics of a dark outfit you have to really crank up the contrast/brightness so we can actually see how it fits.

    (I suspect your clothes may also fit better if you remove that ramrod from your rear end, too. ;> "bespoke Ash Samtani creations"? Come on, it's just clothes.)

    from the other pictures it looks nice to my amateur eye, congratulations.
     


  2. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    AdamWill: Yes, apologies for the poor contrast and some of the "black blob" images. Unfortunately, my iPhone's image quality by night is not great. In hindsight, I should have taken along a proper digital camera. When I get a chance (still travelling in Asia) I will take better photos.
    Also, I will rephrase the post text -- so it doesn't grate with some SF readers like yourself -- and (ahem) remove the "ramrod from my rear end" too. [​IMG]

    Thanks for the brutally frank and prompt feedback, which is appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014


  3. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    all in fun, all in fun. sometimes I need my own balloons pricking too. :p
     


  4. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    No offence taken, it was a fair cop. Thanks again. [​IMG]
     


  5. dolama

    dolama Member

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    Hi,
    does anybody know if any of the many tailors in HK have experience in what italians call "spalla insellata" (in english would be translated as "saddled shoulder")?
    I'm sure many of you know what I am talking about. It's a kind of shoulder quite popular in Naples starting from the 40's. I'm personally a fan of this kind of shoulder but it requires very decent tailoring skills, so I was wondering which tailor could do this for me in HK.

    Here an example (it's a Rubinacci jacket):

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks guys. The thing is I'm in the process of expanding my wardrobe so while I'd love to get all of my suits from Chan I need to fill in the gaps with cheaper pieces first. What would you suggest as alternatives at the same price range? Dream and Baroman? What are there CMT prices?

    Also since Chris seems ready to take on the challenge and think they can do better I'll get a pair of suits made from them on my next trip and I (and I assume they) shall await judgment of your discerning eyes.
     


  7. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Dolama: Some HK tailors have a local variation on the theme called "pagoda shoulders". So, try entering that phrase into the SF search engine.

    Recently, I commissioned a navy blue 2-button SB Neapolitan sports jacket from my HK tailor (Ash Samtani) and requested Italian style "shirt sleeve" shoulder seams but they could not accommodate my request. So, I settled for (ahem) English roped shoulder seams on my so-called Neapolitan jacket.
    If you find a HK tailor that can accommodate your request and do a good job, then I would certainly be interested to see the results. Good luck with your search.

    EDIT: Image deleted from above Quote frame to reduce reply length.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014


  8. dolama

    dolama Member

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    Thanks mate, I will do that.
     


  9. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Maybe you can take a look of Peter Lee, Lee Baron.
     


  10. justintime88

    justintime88 Member

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    I couldn't disagree more. Zee's is complete rubbish. I recently picked up a pair of custom-made Oxfords from there and the quality + fit was terrible. They gave me massive blisters and joint pain. Worst pair of shoes I've ever owned. When I wanted to return them, they got really angry. Eventually, they agreed to 'fix it' but it only got worse. 2000 HKD down the drain. Sticking to Lane Crawford now. They tend to have a good selection of comfortable & reasonably priced leather shoes. Zee's is complete rubbish and I can't believe they are getting such favourable reviews on this forum.
     


  11. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Hey man, here is tailor thread! :facepalm:
     


  12. borbor

    borbor Senior member

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    PM this guy:

    http://www.styleforum.net/u/83246/add911-11

    IIRC he recently had a suit done by a tailor in HK with a gorgeous pagoda shoulder.
     


  13. Haroldwong

    Haroldwong Active Member

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    Hi guys,

    Looking for a good value hong kong tailor. Something affordable within the 6000 HKD range with maybe a shirt and tie included (2pc). I've done some quick research and found these names:
    Gordon Yao, WW Chan & Sons, Sams Tailor, Willian Yu, A Man Hing Cheong, Empire International Tailors, British Tailors, Baron Kay.
    I need two suits one navy and one basic grey to wear everyday for work. Any advice on style and cut would be very much appreciated too.
    Ive been checking out www.suitsupply.com and love their light and soft looking suits.
    I will post pictures.

    Thanks in advance!
     


  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I feel like my previous photos of this jacket was not very indicative so I took a new set. Somehow manage to screw up and forgot to adjust my tie properly, but whatever. I think it looks better here (and the button stance thing too).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  15. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Isolation: Yes, much better photos this time around. Like myself you appear to have a right shoulder drop asymmetry issue, which your tailor must contend with. Overall the brown colour and contemporary slim fit sports jacket suits you very well. My additional observations are below.

    Rear View:
    - The shoulder to waist drop is quite pronounced, perhaps a little too severe. However, I accept that perhaps this may be contemporary fit thing preferred by hip young men like yourself. Unfortunately, the result appears to be a vertical drape folds in the shoulder area.
    - Perhaps, the shoulder width/pitch may be a little too wide? Hence above mentioned drop and vertical drape folds issues. I expect more experienced members here will comment further about this.
    - Rumpled sleeves suggest that sleeve pitch requires adjustment and/or sleeve may need to be trimmed further, in line with your contemporary fit look.
    - Too much skirt around the rear vents for contemporary slim fit.

    Side View:
    - No collar gap. A decent amount of shirt collar visible about jacket collar. Good. But, out of proportion with visible shirt sleeve cuffs, if you wish to roll (harmoniously balanced) in that way.
    - Sleeve pitch issues visible again but don't look so pronounced side on.
    - Divots/dimples mid upper arm suggest minor adjustments required.
    - Gapping side vent obvious but this may be a result of the fabric choice (linen?). A good steam pressing might resolve that issue.

    Front View:
    - Good shoulder line, i.e. no obvious ripples. Albeit, see above mentioned possible shoulder width/pitch issue.
    - Right shoulder drop already noted above.
    - Sleeve pitch issue already noted above.
    - Sleeve length and shirt cuff asymmetry issues need minor adjustments,especially on left sleeve. Alternatively, if you remove your large chrono/sports watch on left arm and replace it with a slimmer profile dress watch, then the aforementioned sleeve/shirt cuff adjustment might be avoided all together. Just a thought.
    - Button stance and jacket quarters looks good.
    - However, arguably, there is a minor "X fold" (i.e. too tight) around top jacket button. Again, this may well be a contemporary slim fit preference, favoured by younger men nowadays.
    - Maybe semi/spread collars on your shirts (with shorter point lengths) would look better with your contemporary slim fit lapels and tie. Just a thought.

    Again, your contemporary look is hip and sharp. Keep persevering with your fit, you're almost there from my amateur perspective. Thanks for sharing!
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014


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