The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Basted fitting for a DB linen suit at Hemrajani. The front of the coat will come down a little to improve balance, this will be a 6x2, patch pocket coat so I can wear it separately as well. On the whole, Joe and his staff were very helpful and knowledgeable, I'm looking forward to seeing the final result.

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  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Reposted here. Comments appreciated.
     
  3. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Either you're not standing straight, or you have quite a drop in your right shoulder, which the tailor has not taken into account. I imagine this would require considerable surgery for the suit. The vents on the brown suit open up when you stand, while the trousers on the DB fall very poorly. There's also something weird going on with the arms on the DB. I'm not sure I would return to this particular tailor if it were my money.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  4. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I thought at first I was not standing straight but now I remember the measurer at Chan mentioned the same thing (must be all that kendo I did), so I assume it's at least partially the fault of the tailor. This is mostly the DB suit right? I don't notice as much on the linen one. Do you think it's a really big problem? Do you think I can mention it to him next time and it'll still be worth using the tailor? FWIW the linen is from Excellent Tailor, and the db suit is Simpson Sin.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  5. BigbigJohnny

    BigbigJohnny Well-Known Member

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    I think the front part of linen suit is in terrible shape.
    I never had my 2-button suit which 2nd button is fully covered when stand still. This is definitely due to poor fitting and I don't think the tailor can do any much of that.
     
  6. Chris-ModaR

    Chris-ModaR Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes I agree the shape of the linen suit is bad
    That being said, the 2nd button being fully covered is more a function of how they cut the quarters and style the quarters of the suit rather than poor fit. It's just that StyleForum as I've realized after a while, heavily favors a much more opened quarters shape.
     
  7. aton

    aton Active Member

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    Quote:IMO, armpits too low and jackets too long, especially the DB. Isolation, apart from a sloping shoulder, your body shape is quite slim and therefore I think you can buy RTW suits in better fitting than these. Anyway, thank you for posting the photos for us to know the quality of works of the tailors concerned.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks. I should mention actually did ask to have the jackets slightly on the longer more conservative side against the tailor's initial recommendation. I also asked for the thinner lapels on the linen suit.

    As for RTW I found many of the suits out there to be bad for precisely that reason, they are generally way to wide at the waist for me and even with altering they don't fit well.
     
  9. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Hmm.... I doubt you standing in the same way when you are doing fitting. Both of the back are terrible!
     
  10. Isochronous

    Isochronous Member

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    I first got a sports jacket made at William Cheng 2 years ago and I have been fairly happy with their workmanship - although I have found some of the assistants give you better service and listen more than others.

    I now need to buy another 2-3 suits and am wondering if I should go back there or try someone else considered 'higher end' - from the gist of this thread it seems that WW Chan and Gordon Yao are considered to produce better suits. How much would they charge using a good Super 130-140 standard of fabric? At Cheng I've been spending in the mid to high HK$4000 range.

    For shirts, I have been ordering easy to iron fabric which prices at HK$400 each. I find the shirts fit well and seem to last. I know Ascot Chang is more around the HK$700 and up mark and are considered the best. Any other suggestions on the shirt front?
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Whilst it would be possible to pick up the individual faults with these, it is probably best summed up by saying the tailor should never have let them out of his work room. There again I suspect you were seen in a shop which is merely a front for a sweat shop with little skill available for the fittings. Thus I do not think them value for money if you are looking for something decent as you get on.

    I would suggest that you go to Gordon Yao and get a couple of decent suits from him,. Then make the comparison of quality/fit/value for money.
     
  12. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    ... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

    The initial focus of the preliminary fittings with Ash Samtani was on nailing down "the fit" of: (1) the first 2-button SB English "military-regular cut" blazer -- albeit with "soft shoulders" (an oxymoron?) -- in a black English made fabric (i.e. year round 7-8oz medium weight, Super 150, Tasmanian wool/cashmere blend); (2) the first pair of flat fronted mid grey wool and /or mustard coloured Italian linen trousers; and (3) the first shirt, a BD sports shirt made from white Sea Island cotton.

    Edit: I do appreciate the general disdain amongst the majority of SF members for "black blazers (jackets)" for anything other than semi-formal or formal wear. However, in my defence, my black blazer is intended for use: (1) mainly at military reunions and remembrance day type events down under (AKA as ANZAC Day) -- as I'm a former army officer -- and (2) the occasional outing as informal evening wear, a popular form of attire for both serving and/or former army officers.

    My client brief was for a "classic fit" -- albeit, leaning towards "slim fit" (crikey, another oxymoron no?). In addition to a verbal briefing, I had earlier provided the firm with a documented list of over 40 requirements for my various sports jacket and/or suit commissions, including many bespoke details that are not obvious from the outside or to the untrained eye. Kindly note, that I am: (1) 183cm (6') tall and weigh 80kg (176lbs) and (2) have a broken right shoulder (AKA drop shoulder) from an old parachuting accident. In the later case, I think Ash Samtani did a very good job in concealing my asymmetrical shoulder line and mitigating any flow-on effects to my right sleeve/cuff appearance etc.

    Last but definitely not least for many SF members, the canvassing requirements. The blazer jacket pictured below is only "half canvassed" on the advice of Ash Samtani. I had initially specified "fully canvassed" however, the firm discouraged me from choosing that option during my initial consultations with them over the phone. IIRC, the rationale was due to the fact that I intend to use my new jackets mainly in tropical South East Asia. They claimed that the jackets would be more comfortable (cooler) with only a half canvas inside.

    Having never owned a fully canvassed jacket before (I confess, a major gap in my sartorial evolution over the past 50 years), I will defer to the collective judgement of SF on the subject of jacket canvassing for now. However, I have resolved to commission a new suit from WW Chan or similar top-tier HK/Shanghai tailor (fully canvassed, of course) on my next trip to the Far East, so that I can directly experience the results and better judge for myself why full canvassing is so highly regarded.

    Following the initial measurements being taken on 29 March 2014, the pictures below are of the second fitting (i.e. blazer buttons absent), the third/final fitting (i.e. blazer buttons on) of the master pattern related garments, and later during an evening out and their actual trial use, which were taken on 3 and 5 April 2014 respectively.

    The known issues identified during the second and third/final fitting were as follows.

    - Jacket: (1) my client sourced and provided blazer buttons (4-hole polished gold toned buttons) were misplaced by the firm (they were later found, albeit after I had left HK) and substituted with third-party heraldic shanked buttons, (2) the skirt at the back (near double vents) was too full, (3) there were some minor faults with the inside of the breast pocket that needed to be rectified, and (4) I later discovered that the boutonniere loop on the reverse side of the lapel -- that I had requested -- was absent.
    - Trousers: the crotch and inside thigh were a little cramped when sitting for extended periods of time (discovered during an actual trial evening out in HK) and needed to be relaxed a little.


    The fulfilment plan was for the patterns of the three above mentioned baseline garments -- when properly fitted, of course -- to then become the master patterns for all the other similar garments being commissioned.

    Kindly note, in the two photos of me below pictured with some of the Ash Samtani team (i.e. elder founder Ash Samtani and his son Luke, who is now the firm's managing director), the pictured sports shirt and cotton pants that I'm wearing are both off the rack and are not Ash Samtani garments. Only the black blazer -- in the two images referred to -- is an Ash Samtani garment. So, please forgive the visible belt on low rise waist via the jacket's open quarters over rumbled cotton pants.

    Gentlemen, what say you? You're collective expert opinions would be greatly appreciated, especially those of the veteran SF members. Thank you in advance for taking time to educate me and/or assisting me to refine "the fit".

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    Images below:
    - Blazer: Black S150 wool/cashmere blend by Ash Samtani
    - Sports Shirt: White Sea Island cotton by Ash Samtani
    - PS: Burnt orange rough Thai silk by Sam Hober
    - Trousers: Mustard Italian linen by Ash Samtani
    - Shoes: Brown leather Tetbury chukka boots by C&J

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    Full disclosure: I'm a long standing Ash Samtani client of nearly 30 years. I am not a paid shill but accept that I am biased, owing to my loyal custom with the firm. Ash Samtani are not aware of my blogging ("warts and all") about their firm and I receive no benefit from them. In fact, quite the opposite, they may in fact be displeased to learn that I'm blogging in detail about my recent client experience with them.

    Edit: Text edit willingly made (fair cop) to appease AdamWill's sensibilities. Also, apologies for the poor quality iPhone images too.

    More to follow...
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  13. Chowkin

    Chowkin Senior member

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    Pictures missing mate
     
  14. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    Chowkin: Pictures posted now.

    Edit: Your HK local knowledge and feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014
  15. BigbigJohnny

    BigbigJohnny Well-Known Member

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    I do not like mine too open as well.
    I just focus on the button hole area but not the part below.

    I believe that's the cuffing problem. Probably the front part is not big enough or the angle is wrong.


     

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