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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. 1up

    1up Distinguished Member

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    Has anyone tried misurino? Good experience ?
     


  2. justintime88

    justintime88 Member

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    Hi guys,

    My first post on this forum. I used this forum to research HK tailors and found the expertise of many memebers quite impressive! So now I am inviting you to comment on my first MTM suit I recently bought from TCNY (Hong Kong).

    I quite like the suit - feels way nicer than my OTR suits. I think I might get another suit next week so, therefore, I have the following questions:


    - What do you think about the suit? Does it fit nicely? Does it look professional?

    - What tweaks/improvements would you suggest?

    - In case I want to get a second MTM or bespoke suit, would you suggest that I go to TCNY again and use my existing suit to tell them exactly what changes they should make regarding the second suit? Or shall I just go to someone like Gordon Yao? I checked out Gordon Yao's website - I am afraid that his style might be too 'senior'. I am just 24 and want to get something that suits my age. I picked TCNY because they seemed to have cool, young style.

    I don't know much about suits, so your help & advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

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    Last edited: Feb 19, 2014


  3. Maccimus

    Maccimus Distinguished Member

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    Maybe try a better tailor...The suit is bad I am afraid.
     


  4. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Distinguished Member

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    +1[​IMG]
     


  5. TheTukker

    TheTukker Distinguished Member

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    I know these responses aren't very helpful, but I am afraid they are correct. Not sure there is even much point in commenting; they should have just not let you leave the store with that suit. If you want more specific feedback/pointers, you can try here, but, from what I've seen here, Gordon Yao will most certainly get you a better suit.
     


  6. blackers

    blackers Active Member

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    Long time reader, first time poster.

    I have lived in HK for a couple of years but have never gotten around to getting some suits made... finally several of my current suits are reaching end of life so I'm motivated to replace them and sort out the rest of my wardrobe at the same time. I'm going to get one suit made to start and then two more to follow if I'm happy with the result.

    My budget is probably HK$5000-8000 for a suit and a second pair of trousers. I wear a suit four days a week so durability is a priority. For most of the suit's life I will be wearing it in Melbourne which has cooler and longer winters than HK (also hellishly hot Januarys but everyone abandons suit jackets entirely then anyway).

    Research on these forums and around my office suggested three candidates in my price range: Simpson Sin, Lee Baron and Dream Bespoke. Did the rounds last Saturday.

    Simpson Sin quoted $5200 for a fully canvassed wool/cashmere suit and about $1500 for a second pair of trousers. They did the thing of questioning why I wanted fully canvassed before saying that they could do fully canvassed but they discourage it. I don't really care for that attitude frankly, so that put them at the bottom of my list. By all means if I come to you with a really stupid idea tell me so, but if I want it and you can do it, then why not just do it? I mentioned this to Ricky at Dream Bespoke later, his theory was they only have a few tailors who can do fully canvassed and so it makes their workflow easier if you have half canvassed.

    Lee Baron quoted $5500 for a fully canvassed wool/cashmere suit and about $1300 for a second pair of trousers. Unlike SS, he was fine with fully canvassed and quite helpful in answering my questions. Some Americans came in straight after me to ask precisely the same questions which he must get all day; in view of which, his service seemed very good.

    But in comparison, Dream Bespoke's service was excellent. There were one or two other customers in the shop but Ricky (who I think is the owner) gave me his full attention for 10-15 minutes as he explained the various options. He showed me fabrics, he explained the differences between Zegna v Harrisons v VBC, discussed fabric weight and how it relates to suitability for climate, he showed me the construction of their canvassing, he showed me examples of finished work, he explained their house style, and most importantly he answered my dumb questions. I felt like I was getting honest opinions rather than a hard sell. This makes the difference for me because I know I will have a lot of questions and need a lot of guidance in getting this suit right. He quoted starting prices for $5600 for a fully canvassed wool/cashmere suit and an extra 30% for a second pair of trousers but took me through price options on a few different fabrics.

    For fabric I'm choosing between Harrison's Frontier and VBC Super 110s. The VBC was the cheapest option at $5600, the Harrison's Frontier is $6800. I really like the Frontier, they have a more subtle "chalk" stripe design which I prefer to a standard pinstripe and I'm thinking the 300g weight is probably more appropriate to Melbourne's temperate climate than the 260g VBC and also more durable. He quoted $10,000 for Zegna Trofeo which looked and felt gorgeous but it just seems like too much to spend on a suit for mine.

    Anyway I will let you know how I go.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2014


  7. justintime88

    justintime88 Member

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    Thank you for your reply. Is it really that bad? I'd like to think that it looks better than my Boss OTR suits.
     


  8. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior Member

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    Bring back the suit, ask TCNY to shorten the pants and let out the waist a bit. I think it will look much better.
     


  9. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Can someone for our benefits talk about what's wrong with the suit? It doesn't seem as bad to my eyes as implied.

    The back is way scrunched up, and it's too tight around the waist, but I don't see the suit as entirely horrible/unwearable. Arguably I'd expect more from bespoke/MTM, but I wouldn't tell the guy to never wear the suit or anything.
     


  10. Dib

    Dib Senior Member

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    Out of curiosity, why are you looking at wool/cashmere blends? You mention durability is a priority - 100% wool suits are, in general, going to be much more durable than a wool/cashmere blend, so i would avoid looking at fabrics with cashmere in them.

    Edit - sorry, just seen you are leaning towards the Harrisons frontier fabric, which i think is 100% wool, in which case my above comments doesn't apply!
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014


  11. Stiva

    Stiva Senior Member

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    Nor do I think it's irredeemable. You have fallen for the young man's common folly of too much waist suppression, which throws out the balance of the jacket and makes it look silly from the back. The button stance is about 2 inches too high. You have a drop left shoulder which hasn't been accommodated, making the left sleeve slightly too long. I suspect the pants were made to have a medium rise, but you want to wear them on the hips, because that's how you wear your casual pants. Which accounts for the excessive break, the loose fabric on the inner thigh with certain stances, and the fact that we can see glimpses of shirt through the quarters. All this can be fixed if you and the tailor are on the same page. Nice colour and seems an acceptable fabric. No collar gap. Good quarters. Don't give up on it.
     


  12. GBR

    GBR Distinguished Member

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    That's a dreadful looking suit which the so called cutter/tailor should be ashamed.

    Coat:

    Too short
    Too tight - look how it pulls at the top button
    Back a rumpled mess
    Sleeves/shoulders awful

    Trousers

    Too long
    Too baggy in the thigh.

    This should never have escaped from the factory - note not work room.


    Burn it and try Gordon Yao next time.
     


  13. blackers

    blackers Active Member

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    Sorry I just meant that the "basic" fabrics I was shown at SS and Lee Baron which the quoted price was based on were wool/cashmere blends (I think). You are right though, once I got past the initial enquiries at Dream Bespoke I went straight for the pure wool books. I bought a cheap Vietnamese wool/cashmere suit years ago on holiday and while it was pretty good value given how little I paid, I think it has turned me off wool/cashmere blends for life.

    Interestingly when Ricky started going through fabrics and prices for suits he started by mentioning a wool/polyester mix - I am new to this but I can't understand why anyone would go to the trouble of getting a bespoke suit but then settle for polyester.

    Consulted my fashion and financial adviser (my wife) and she's approved the Harrison's Frontier so that's that decision made!
     


  14. blackers

    blackers Active Member

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    justintime, I wouldn't worry about GBR, looking at his posts that's the fourth suit he's advised someone to burn this week. I would head back to the tailor armed with the more constructive comments from this thread and get it adjusted.

    I agree the jacket is a little tight, it shouldn't be pulling on the button and the back is a mess. Not sure if the jacket's too short, I think it may be that the trousers are just being worn too low as Stiva suggests. The jacket should basically finish at the bottom of your buttocks. The shoulders do look a bit wide, there shouldn't be a dent below the seam if the jacket fits your shoulders properly.

    The waist suppression and the button position are just matters of personal style though I think.
     


  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Distinguished Member

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    Hey justintime88, I think the suit needs too many alterations, it will be better to skip TCNY next time and try elsewhere.

    Personally, a well fitted suit can never be too old or young.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014


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